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Old 08-04-2003, 01:29 AM   #2911
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Quote:
Originally posted by Que
What is the part number for these plastic clips you speak of
They are plastic spacers you put in the shocks for certain cars. You actually do not need to use them on Serpent cars.
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Old 08-04-2003, 01:31 AM   #2912
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Thanks all of you guys.
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Old 08-04-2003, 10:19 AM   #2913
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Have any of you ever thought of grinding off those buttons from the bulkheads that indent into the bottom of the chassis to make it easier to access the diffs and belts by removing half of the suspension? I have done it to the rear already and I will be doing it to the front shortly. I can't really see any negative effects.
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Old 08-04-2003, 12:43 PM   #2914
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How are you guys measuring rear camber for the rear? Hudy setup gauges or RPM camber gauge? One of my rear tires really wore badly yesterday when the other was fine. Something must of messed up (crash, hit, anything) I was running -3 for the rear and the right tire really wore towards the outside of the tire. Granted most of the turns on the track are right hand, should I try -2? I guess I will contrinue to tune on the hudy and put the wheels on and measure the car with the wheels on and the RPM to see if it matches when the cars weight is settled. Any suggestions?
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Old 08-04-2003, 12:52 PM   #2915
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Quote:
Originally posted by Devin
How are you guys measuring rear camber for the rear? Hudy setup gauges or RPM camber gauge? One of my rear tires really wore badly yesterday when the other was fine. Something must of messed up (crash, hit, anything) I was running -3 for the rear and the right tire really wore towards the outside of the tire. Granted most of the turns on the track are right hand, should I try -2? I guess I will contrinue to tune on the hudy and put the wheels on and measure the car with the wheels on and the RPM to see if it matches when the cars weight is settled. Any suggestions?
Well Devin ,,

For me,, I set the camber the same way you do, after I finish setting the car with the huddy, I put the tires and recheck the ride height and the camber with the rpm camber gauge!!

Ciao!!
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Old 08-04-2003, 02:14 PM   #2916
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I haven't done the RPM camber gauge part yet, but will add that to make sure it matches the HUDY measurement.
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Old 08-04-2003, 02:46 PM   #2917
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the hudy measurement is the one to trust, not the rpm. I had an rpm gauge that was way off. BTW, if you are wearing too much on the outside of your tire, you should add MORE camber, not less.
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Old 08-04-2003, 05:47 PM   #2918
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Trust in the Hudy and the Force will be with you, Master Yoda say's so!!!!!!!!!!!! Why buy a precise tuning aid like the hudy setup system only to check it with something less acurate like the RPM guage????????

I think you are only going to get info on whether or not you tires and rims are straight and true! You should spin them on a tire balencer for that! Because even if they are balenced they still could be warped or something. Watch them spin on your car or balencer and see if they wobble! If the do then no setting you get on your Hudy will fix that handeling problem.
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Old 08-04-2003, 08:02 PM   #2919
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Well, All the suggestions on checking the camber are good and correct. Using a Hudy (or any) set-up station after setting the ride height is the best way to get a correct reading. Using a RPM camber gauge can give a false reading only because there can be senior like a bent rim. Checking the camber with a RPM gauge can work on the fly before a race.
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Old 08-04-2003, 08:43 PM   #2920
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Quote:
Originally posted by Devin
How are you guys measuring rear camber for the rear? Hudy setup gauges or RPM camber gauge? One of my rear tires really wore badly yesterday when the other was fine. Something must of messed up (crash, hit, anything) I was running -3 for the rear and the right tire really wore towards the outside of the tire. Granted most of the turns on the track are right hand, should I try -2? I guess I will contrinue to tune on the hudy and put the wheels on and measure the car with the wheels on and the RPM to see if it matches when the cars weight is settled. Any suggestions?
I agree with what Proficar403 mentioned. It could be that an accident or something could have whacked the right rear pivot balls in and messed up the camber. Did you recheck the settings after the race to see if the settings were indeed off from what was set initially?

In any case, with more right hand corners and sweepers, your left rear tire will tend to cone more and thus sometimes requires MORE camber than the left rear tire.

One tip that I am using at the moment when setting up the car is after I have made up my mind on the ride height setting (whether it was set on the Hudy gauge or with a set of tires that I want to use), I put the ride height gauge below the chassis at which ride height the chassis ought to be and set the rear toe in first before setting the rear camber. This way, I know for sure that my chassis does not compress further and that the camber settings are set and based upon the intended ride height. Sometimes, the ride height when the chassis and shocks are compressed on the Hudy gauges can be plus or minus off.
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Old 08-04-2003, 08:49 PM   #2921
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Quote:
Originally posted by Proficar403
Have any of you ever thought of grinding off those buttons from the bulkheads that indent into the bottom of the chassis to make it easier to access the diffs and belts by removing half of the suspension? I have done it to the rear already and I will be doing it to the front shortly. I can't really see any negative effects.
Proficar403, I find that these tabs or buttons from the bulkhead maintain the correct alignment that the bulkheads should be on the chassis. I find that this is what makes the bulkhead stay on the chassis upon impact or crash.

I guess you can grind it off as it will make the diffs and belts easier to access but at the same time, but I would not know if the screws below the chassis is enough to make the bulkheads stay put at the same place without this buttons from the bulkheads upon a crash or an impact...
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Old 08-04-2003, 09:12 PM   #2922
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Quote:
Originally posted by PUNISHER
Well, All the suggestions on checking the camber are good and correct. Using a Hudy (or any) set-up station after setting the ride height is the best way to get a correct reading. Using a RPM camber gauge can give a false reading only because there can be senior like a bent rim. Checking the camber with a RPM gauge can work on the fly before a race.
I completly agree with you Punisher,, soryy I forgot to mention about the rims,, ,, check for wobles in the rims first, before you check the camber with the RPM camber gauge!! , but I feel more confident when I recheck my camber with the RPM!!
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Old 08-04-2003, 09:44 PM   #2923
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Ok like i didn't bring up the rim thing first I know i am a rookie but give me some credit
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Old 08-05-2003, 01:44 AM   #2924
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Arrow Any news for new development of SERPENT 200 mm

Guys,

Anyone know if Serpent has a development going on to succeed Serpent 705 next year ? Just out of curiosity
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Old 08-05-2003, 05:58 AM   #2925
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Thanks for the reply guys on the rear camber/toe. This is the first nitro that you couldn't adjust the camber via the top by a turnbuckle. After I put the 705 back on the hudy board I was very suprized that no adjustments were out of alignment. It's a strong car so it stayed in tack. I was a -2.5 camber and 3 toe in for the rear. I changed back to -3 camber L&R and 2 toe in. I'll mount up a new pair of foams and see how that works for me. I still do not understand why when looking from the back of the car that the rear right would cone towards the outside of the rim when most of the turns are right handers...you think the left would wear more and that one looked fine.
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