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Old 07-17-2003, 09:56 AM   #2701
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BOWTIE1, perhaps the 2 speed adjustment screw is too tight. I found that with the stock 16T/19T pinions and 49T/45T spurs, the 2nd gear will engage when the 2 speed adjustment screws are somewhere about 6 turns out. Tighten the 2 speed adjustment screws till you cannot anymore and turn them out 6 full turns. Do the same for both screws. The rule of thumb is to tighten or loosen it about 1/4 turn at a time on both screws to find the correct engagement. This would depend on the track and the engine. Using smaller pinions, you would need to loosen the 2 speed engagement screws. Using larger 1st gear pinions, you need to tighten them a little. Try it out and adjust the 2 speed engagement to your liking.

2 speed gearbox
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Old 07-17-2003, 10:01 AM   #2702
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Quote:
Originally posted by eddiethefish
I just couldn't tolerate seeing any scratches on my beloved Serpent. Besides, the new chassis by modeller looks neato.
Eddie, please post pictures of your own Serpent cars. Not those owned by a Team Serpent driver in Thailand
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Old 07-17-2003, 02:16 PM   #2703
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that is #3 right ... sorry i am verry new to on-road i alwayd race off road.....thanks for your time
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Old 07-17-2003, 06:45 PM   #2704
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Quote:
Originally posted by BOWTIE1
InitialD
that is #3 right ... sorry i am verry new to on-road i alwayd race off road.....thanks for your time
Yes.
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Old 07-17-2003, 07:10 PM   #2705
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Paul, you wash your car in the washing machine? Cool

I too had a nasty accident last weekend but nothing too serious. Hope everything is good with you.
,,,,Sorry but thats the place that my wife gave to me , to work in my cars, is that place or nothing , , well and you saw the results, i'm working over that washing machine every time I strip my car down,, hehehe!!!

Ciao!
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Old 07-17-2003, 08:12 PM   #2706
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kool thanks i got it ...it is working sweet now
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Old 07-17-2003, 08:24 PM   #2707
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Default New RDLogics Pipe

Forgot today is already Friday
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Old 07-17-2003, 08:33 PM   #2708
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Quote:
Originally posted by Devin
Yes, serpent is failing for their packaging and manufacturing. Part 801172 the battery connector is suppost to come with the front and rear mounting hardware. I order it and guess what, it only comes with the front....it's missing the rear which I need! Robert from Ashford is luckily sorting that out with serpent and I expect a replacement soon. I hope this is not in haste of rushing to meet demands...there are starting to be many carless errors!

Thanks.
John
John / Devin, corrections... I was wrong. Just checked my inventory and the 801171 Battery case + connector only comes with the front mouting hardware and does not come with the front and rear mounting hardware as I claimed earlier. So you're right then that the 801172 should have come with the front and rear mounting hardware as indicated in mytsn.
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Old 07-17-2003, 08:37 PM   #2709
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Default Exhaust Mounting Mod

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
The M3 cap screw I use must be long enough to go from the top of the bulkhead to the bottom mid way so that the exhaust aluminum holder can be held in place. The location of the aluminum exhaust holder is exactly where the original place where the exhaust wire is held. M3 cap screw uses 2.5 allen. A M3 button head uses 2 mm allen. I prefer the cap screw as the head is bigger and the tendency to strip the screw is less.

A separate set screw will hold the the exhaust wire on the aluminum exhaust holder. On my Impulse PRO, the set screw that holds the exhaust wire on the aluminum exhaust holder is a M2 that uses a 1.5 allen. On my 705, the separate set screw needs a 2 mm allen. This is because the one on the Impulse is a Team Magic one while the 705 is having the larger 5 star one. I prefer the 5 star one because the set screw is larger hence less tendency to strip.

Well, sorry for not being able to post pictures of it. Not allowed by the guys here as they say it's not Friday yet (j/k). Well, I actually forgot to do that. Too tired.
John / Devin, as promised I actually forgot all about it. This picture says a thousand words that I actually wanted to say earlier And yes, it's a better pic than what Punisher came out with Mark will definitely not approve on the condition of the car
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Old 07-17-2003, 11:01 PM   #2710
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Nice pipe InitialD!

AH! Friday :-) Another N800 pic :-)

That's a MIP temp measurer, isn't it?


Cheers, Mark.
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Old 07-17-2003, 11:22 PM   #2711
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Well, nice way of rubbing on the fact that I'm still using the N800

Well, the onboard temp gauge is from Venom Racing. It's better than the MIP one because it has a memory that can log the max/min temperature recorded during a run.

Yeah it's a nice pipe The sound is nice too I think this is because of the 7.2 mm stinger But if you have sound restrictions especially running in EU, I would say you will get into trouble.

Anyway looking at the size of the pipe I thought it would be a torquey pipe. Yes it is but it's also a high end one too The engine revs very easily too. I would say bottom end, it's similar to my NovaMega TP05 Outlaw pipe but on the high end side, it's better. I think it's got something to do with the large stinger Out of curiousity, I measured the pipe and the length was 92 mm versus 94 mm on the TP05.
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Old 07-17-2003, 11:46 PM   #2712
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Well, nice way of rubbing on the fact that I'm still using the N800

Well, the onboard temp gauge is from Venom Racing. It's better than the MIP one because it has a memory that can log the max/min temperature recorded during a run.

Yeah it's a nice pipe The sound is nice too I think this is because of the 7.2 mm stinger But if you have sound restrictions especially running in EU, I would say you will get into trouble.

Anyway looking at the size of the pipe I thought it would be a torquey pipe. Yes it is but it's also a high end one too The engine revs very easily too. I would say bottom end, it's similar to my NovaMega TP05 Outlaw pipe but on the high end side, it's better. I think it's got something to do with the large stinger Out of curiousity, I measured the pipe and the length was 92 mm versus 94 mm on the TP05.
I like to make sure you don't forget which camera you have

The circuit where I drive is in the middle of a forest and miles away from any houses, so noise isn't an issue - it just has to be loud and sound nice

I'm going to be trying my hand at a bit of engine tunning this weekend. Last weekend I manged to get my car back on the track - it was great after 3-4 Weeks of no driving
My driving seems to be improving, only one excursion off the track and no damage done - very satifying now that I can drive reasonably fast and also stick to the racing line.
I'm going to have to look at tuning my engine this weekend, as I have starting problems once the engine get warm/hot. I have to let it cool down before I'm able to start it again. This would be the low needle being to lean?

I also had some problems with the mixture being to lean whilst running on the circuit, i.e. misfiring - but this I cured by richening the mixture.

Hopefully I'll sort my starting problem out and enjoy a few hours at the circuit.

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 07-17-2003, 11:46 PM   #2713
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Default Track in Gothenburg, Sweeden

Johan, I think one of the Serpent team drivers that you talked about raced at your local track and there was write up by him on mytsn. Check it out.

http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?pid=8560
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Old 07-18-2003, 12:14 AM   #2714
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
I like to make sure you don't forget which camera you have


Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
The circuit where I drive is in the middle of a forest and miles away from any houses, so noise isn't an issue - it just has to be loud and sound nice
Cool. Should be a nice track. Ummm, now that I remember, I thought you posted a link once with some pics of your local track.

Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
'm going to have to look at tuning my engine this weekend, as I have starting problems once the engine get warm/hot. I have to let it cool down before I'm able to start it again. This would be the low needle being to lean?
Depends... I would think on your track, you're mostly on full throttle right? If that's the case, then the high end needle is suspect as this would be the one controlling the engine temperature most of the time since the carb is open near 100% most of the time. If you're using 0 to 50% throttle, then I would say richen the low end needle to reduce the temp.

How many turns are the needles currently at? If you still cannot get the needles right, I would suggest turning out the HSN 4 turn out and the LSN also at 4 turns out with the brass needle flat towards against the carb body. Make sure you keep a record of your old needle settings. Also, open the sponge filter and look at the carb slide opening at neutral. The opening should not be more than 1 mm wide. Tune the engine from there. Before you do it, make sure also that the car is warmed up nicely for about two to three tanks to get the temperatures stabilised.

Tune the HSN first and then the LSN. It may be difficult at first to get the engine running because of the rich low end. You can compensate this by opening the idel needle a little to get a higher engine idle. The engine high end RPM at WOT should be able to reach it's peak easily. If it does not, continue to lean the HSN (clockwise turns) at 1/12 turns at a time. At the same time, check to see if smoke comes out of the pipe. More smoke, then the better it is. If you have a temperature sensor or a temp gun, check the temperature to see that it does not go beyond 120 degree C. This may be a conservative temperature but it sure helps you get the engine started back if it dies. Else, use the spit method. Then just remind me not to get your engine If fuel spits out from the pipe, your HSN is still rich.

Once the HSN is set, lean out the LSN also in 1/12 turns at a time till the engine is able to rev cleanly and easily from neutral. At the same time, watch for smoke and monitor the engine temp.

Test the car out on the tracks, if the temp goes up, richen the HSN slightly about 1/8 of a turn.

You can also use the glow plug method to check if your engine is running rich or lean. Got to www.parisracing.com for more information.

Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
I also had some problems with the mixture being to lean whilst running on the circuit, i.e. misfiring - but this I cured by richening the mixture.
At which point were you misfiring? Which needle did you richen? If on the back straights the engine misfires, not enough fuel is going in and signs that the HSN is lean. It could also mean that your plug is nearing toast.
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Old 07-18-2003, 12:47 AM   #2715
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Thanks for the info.

The circuit isn't a high speed one. None of the corners are flat out and quite a few I coast through on part throttle. Normally after such a corner is where I experience my misfires. When I open the throttle fully after rolling through a corner, then it starts to miss. This would be the HSN?

Cheers, Mark.
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