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Old 07-07-2003, 02:59 PM   #2416
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Quote:
Originally posted by n1technik
since it took you forever to build 705, i suggest you just go ahead and buy pre built pack.
to charger receiver packs, you have many options. all depends on how much money you want to spend on it.(although i think if you are in rc racing, you should have a at least 1 decent charger)
if you are on a budget just get a wall charger that will charge it overnight at .5amps
.5amps is all I would charge any RC Car battery at. I agree that a decent one is worth investing in if you run electric cars but for Nitro you dont need anything more than a wall charger.

Charging any battery at high Amperage is bad for the cells and they will not last nearly as long as a battery charged at .5A. I still have the original 5-cell pack I first got when I started racing 1:8th 16yrs ago. And it is still working strong. Never was charged at more than .5A.

I have seen guys changing batteries maybe twice a year and guess what - they use high Amperage field chargers.
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Old 07-07-2003, 03:30 PM   #2417
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ok... so i should just get a cheap wall charger?? and is there a decent ac/dc charger that you can adjust the charging amperage on??
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Old 07-07-2003, 03:43 PM   #2418
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Quote:
Originally posted by modellor
... I still have the original 5-cell pack I first got when I started racing 1:8th 16yrs ago. And it is still working strong...
With all my respect, was there any typo here? Was "16 yrs ago" too exaggerating? Please educate me more on battery matter.

Last edited by eddiethefish; 07-07-2003 at 07:43 PM.
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Old 07-07-2003, 07:15 PM   #2419
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ok... where is the link to buy the serpent battery pack online?? from like atomichobbies or something... and how hard is it to make your own battery pack?
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Old 07-07-2003, 08:24 PM   #2420
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Supra528,
Building a 5cell battery pack isn’t too hard to do as long you know how to use a soldering iron. All you need is some brass bars cut in half or wire to connect all the batteries then heat shrink wrap to finish a pack. If you have any doubts about it try asking a friend that can solder or an electric R/C racers.


I still have these charger for sell………
Hangar 9 Charger
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Old 07-07-2003, 08:40 PM   #2421
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Punisher, truth being told, I HATED SOLDERING !! Still do

Just imagine having not touched a soldering iron all your life and here you are having to make your own pack !! Yikes...

supra, seriously, making your own packs (worst if you are starting out and do not have any knowledge of assembling one yourself) can run the risk of not having made it properly. There are chances you can short the batteries or use too much heat on the solder iron and damage the NiMH batteries consequently. Even if you manage to make it, what are the chances that the soldering connection that you made does not break? I've seen and experienced too many times this happening. Not a pretty sight.

Yeah, it's cheaper to make your own packs. But is it worth all the above just to save some money? EP cars maybe but for GP cars, no, I don't recommend doing your own pack. Best is to get one pre-made.
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Old 07-07-2003, 09:01 PM   #2422
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
supra, seriously, making your own packs (worst if you are starting out and do not have any knowledge of assembling one yourself) can run the risk of not having made it properly. There are chances you can short the batteries or use too much heat on the solder iron and damage the NiMH batteries consequently. Even if you manage to make it, what are the chances that the soldering connection that you made does not break? I've seen and experienced too many times this happening. Not a pretty sight.

Yeah, it's cheaper to make your own packs. But is it worth all the above just to save some money? EP cars maybe but for GP cars, no, I don't recommend doing your own pack. Best is to get one pre-made.
Don't understand why it is OK to home build battery packs for EP cars but not OK for GP cars . I really don't see the logic behind it, maybe you can explaining a little bit more clearly ?

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Old 07-07-2003, 09:09 PM   #2423
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jump 7 Miles
Don't understand why it is OK to home build battery packs for EP cars but not OK for GP cars . I really don't see the logic behind it, maybe you can explaining a little bit more clearly ?
I knew somebody would ask. That shows that they are reading

On EP cars, if you make a mistake of not making good soldering contacts, then the car electric motor will just stop when there's zero battery. Inherent fail safe feature.

On GP cars, even if there's no power coming from the pack halfway through when you're racing, the servos will remain the same place where it was just before power cut. Assuming if you do not run a TRS (which many people still do not) and incidently you were at WOT just before the receiver pack soldering connection decides to crap on you, then the throttle servo will remain open and the car will just go straight and will only stop when it slams something hard

So although the receiver pack on GP cars are small compared to the packs on EP cars, they are much more important.
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Old 07-07-2003, 09:10 PM   #2424
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Punisher, truth being told, I HATED SOLDERING !! Still do
Just imagine having not touched a soldering iron all your life and here you are having to make your own pack !! Yikes...
Heheheheh.......
Yeah, had Nizee build my 5cell packs becuz he kinda dose that for a living.
Also he was willing to do it for me!



Plus I have 800mah batts that need to be built.
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Old 07-07-2003, 09:15 PM   #2425
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Quote:
Originally posted by modellor
.5amps is all I would charge any RC Car battery at. I agree that a decent one is worth investing in if you run electric cars but for Nitro you dont need anything more than a wall charger.

Charging any battery at high Amperage is bad for the cells and they will not last nearly as long as a battery charged at .5A. I still have the original 5-cell pack I first got when I started racing 1:8th 16yrs ago. And it is still working strong. Never was charged at more than .5A.

I have seen guys changing batteries maybe twice a year and guess what - they use high Amperage field chargers.
I don't really believe any Ni-Cd battery (I assume you are talking about Ni-Cd, this is about the only type of rechargable battery avialiable 16 years ago) can last that long. Main reason why Ni-Cd battery fails becasue of the separator between the electrodes oxidized and short out the electrodes. It is a chemical reaction and there is nothing much can be done to stop it. Unless you are playing R/C rockets in space , oxidization will happen. Doesn't matter how you charge the batteries, it will fail eventually, most likely in 4 to 5 years, but not 16 years. Just my thought.

WT
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Old 07-07-2003, 09:16 PM   #2426
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Quote:
Originally posted by PUNISHER
Heheheheh.......
Yeah, had Nizee build my 5cell packs becuz he kinda dose that for a living.
Also he was willing to do it for me!



Plus I have 800mah batts that need to be built.
Heheh, he does that for a living? Woow, I should have him send some to me

Well, I guess you have some kind of symbiotic relationship with Nizee then... You paint bodies for him, he makes receiver packs for you
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Old 07-07-2003, 09:25 PM   #2427
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I knew somebody would ask. That shows that they are reading

On EP cars, if you make a mistake of not making good soldering contacts, then the car electric motor will just stop when there's zero battery. Inherent fail safe feature.

On GP cars, even if there's no power coming from the pack halfway through when you're racing, the servos will remain the same place where it was just before power cut. Assuming if you do not run a TRS (which many people still do not) and incidently you were at WOT just before the receiver pack soldering connection decides to crap on you, then the throttle servo will remain open and the car will just go straight and will only stop when it slams something hard

So although the receiver pack on GP cars are small compared to the packs on EP cars, they are much more important.
True, but all your reasoning is base on "what if" I didn't build the battery right. Now "what if" I can build the battery correctly and properly, then what would you say then ? Please don't underestimate other people's ability to learn and do things right. The EP guys don't seems to have problem with that.

WT
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Old 07-07-2003, 09:34 PM   #2428
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I've notice on car set-ups on mytsn,that the front shock tower isn't being used. Is that the way you guys go now? I'm trying to really get back into my 705 car, been running everything else the past few months.Rear shock tower has also changed.
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Old 07-07-2003, 09:35 PM   #2429
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jump 7 Miles
True, but all your reasoning is base on "what if" I didn't build the battery right. Now "what if" I can build the battery correctly and properly, then what would you say then ? Please don't underestimate other people's ability to learn and do things right. The EP guys don't seems to have problem with that.

WT
Hi there, please don't take it the wrong way. The original message and advise was intended for supra528. If you look at his post for help on the car, you'll know that he may not be too familiar with things.

I went through that and I thought I would just share what could happen if you mess up with things. As you know, the what if situations can come when you do not need them the most. Shit happens. Just sharing my personal experience.

If I underestimated supra528's capabilities, my apologies. For all we know, he may have a job like what nizee is having... Doing soldering work for a living If he's just daring enough to want to try it out and solder the pack for himself, why not. My advise is open. If you want it, take it. If you feel it's ridiculous, then just ignore. I won't take heart to that.
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Old 07-07-2003, 09:44 PM   #2430
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pit-racer
I've notice on car set-ups on mytsn,that the front shock tower isn't being used. Is that the way you guys go now? I'm trying to really get back into my 705 car, been running everything else the past few months.Rear shock tower has also changed.
Hey Pit-racer, it's been some time you've not come here

Yes, the guys in Holland are testing this out and apparently they are sticking to it. For me, I've tried putting the front and rear shocks on the bearing blocks. I must say I like this position and having not to rely on the expensive carbon graphite shock towers You may want to end up with red springs all around depending on your available traction.

For the front, I find that the initial steering will not be so sensitive as when the shocks are stood up more vertical but in the middle of the corner, I get a lot of side bite traction in the front. I can carry more speed into the corners that way. All in all, I find the front shocks in that position makes the car pretty stable during corners.

Are you using the 808139 for the rear shock tower?
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