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Old 07-06-2003, 10:49 AM   #2371
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Originally posted by markp27
Hi Guys,

Another question: Something funny going on in my rear suspension...To get the correct camber and toe in on the right hand side I have to turn out the pivot balls about 2mm more than on the left hand side! I don't know what is going on here and would appreciate some advice.

Hopefully you can see the pivot ball threads in the picture below:
Heheh, your right rear lower arm seems to be from the old stock. Did you replace that? Also, the rear shocks seem leaky... It also seems like your screws to mount the rear shock tower support is stripped. Are you using blue silicone gasket or some kind of threadlock to tighten the screws? I suggest if you can get some white teflon tape used for plumbing purposes and wrap it around the screw thread, that would do the trick.

Anyway, since you have the Hudy board, could you check if the rear left and right trackwidth is equal? I used to have that problem on my Impulse. I thought it had something to do with the screws from the upper rear arms to the uprights were not tighten and mounted correctly.
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Old 07-06-2003, 10:52 AM   #2372
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Originally posted by markp27
Hopefully you can see the pivot ball threads in the picture below:
Ummm, I must say you got a very good sharp picture taken there... Nikon D1? A little bit of an overkill, don't you think?
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Old 07-06-2003, 10:54 AM   #2373
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Hi InitialD,

As I mentioned earlier, I used to be a photographer on the F1/F300 and F3 scene - the gear didn't cost me a penny Use and abuse
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Old 07-06-2003, 11:04 AM   #2374
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Heheh, your right rear lower arm seems to be from the old stock. Did you replace that? Also, the rear shocks seem leaky... It also seems like your screws to mount the rear shock tower support is stripped. Are you using blue silicone gasket or some kind of threadlock to tighten the screws? I suggest if you can get some white teflon tape used for plumbing purposes and wrap it around the screw thread, that would do the trick.

Anyway, since you have the Hudy board, could you check if the rear left and right trackwidth is equal? I used to have that problem on my Impulse. I thought it had something to do with the screws from the upper rear arms to the uprights were not tighten and mounted correctly.
Really I just got the right rear lower arm from rccarinternational - hmm, maybe I ordered the wrong part, but I'm sure I used the 705 part list to order it. Anyway, I replaced it as a precaution due to a very bad crash on the right handside. Do you think the older part may be shorter? If I line up the hudy board concurs with the 2mm longer right hand side

Yep, the shock tower screw is stripped, thanks for the tip with the teflon tape - brilliant idea!!!!

As for the shocks, I just rebuilt them and didn't clean up all the excess oil so thez do look a bit leaky
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Old 07-06-2003, 11:07 AM   #2375
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PS>> had to replace the front steering block, also due to the accident. Got the new FC blocks - boy do you ever have to screw these things in tight to get the 200mm!!!
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Old 07-06-2003, 11:07 AM   #2376
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Default Re: Suspension arms

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Originally posted by markp27
Shouldn't the suspension arms on the 705 drop down onto the downstops under their own weight? (when the wheels are attached - should it be the same without the wheels?)
What ride height are you setting the car for? What tire diameter are you using? What droop are you planning to use?

The arms should droop all the way down when it is not connected to the shocks, with or without wheels. If not, something is binding. When the shocks are connected to the arms, I personally feel that it is best to set the shocks up so that when the shocks are fully extended, the arms reach the full droop setting intended.

Depending on the ride height you set the car for, you may end up with arms not drooping on its own weight to the downstop end points when the shocks are connected. I think they should extend to the end in order for the suspension to work properly.

As an example, when using -2 front droop, I find that when using say 64 mm front tires and setting front ride height as 5, it is impossible for me to make the shocks extend to its ends so that the arms would reach to the end of the downstop point. I need to use a very small tire (60 mm and below) to be able to utilise the full front droop provided by the -2 setting and still maintain a front ride height of 5mm.

So the solution for you is to run smaller tires if you want to use a lot of droop. If you're using large tires, try limiting the droop. Anyway, using a lot of droop with large tires is never recommeded. Traction roll could be your problem.

At anytime, the suspension should be turned down to set it such that the shocks will extend the arms to the droop setting intended.
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Old 07-06-2003, 11:10 AM   #2377
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Hi InitialD,

As I mentioned earlier, I used to be a photographer on the F1/F300 and F3 scene - the gear didn't cost me a penny Use and abuse
Hey Mark, I know and I remembered you telling me Just pulling a fast one on ya Could have used something of a smaller digicam for that

I thought the D1 is still new... Like 1 or 2 years max?
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Old 07-06-2003, 11:17 AM   #2378
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
PS>> had to replace the front steering block, also due to the accident. Got the new FC blocks - boy do you ever have to screw these things in tight to get the 200mm!!!
Yup, I thought I was the only one having the problem... I was initially using the stock standard steel pivot balls which are longer when mounting the FC steering blocks. I thought the pivot balls were the problem. Turned out that it was still the same problem reaching 200 mm front trackwidth when I used the shortened aluminum pivot balls. Still, steering is noticeably better and much more controlled The FC steering blocks are a keeper I also find that they are more durable than the old steering blocks too. Took quite a bashing this weekend and surprisingly, the aluminum pivot balls and the FC steering blocks stood up
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Old 07-06-2003, 11:20 AM   #2379
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Default Re: Re: Suspension arms

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
What ride height are you setting the car for? What tire diameter are you using? What droop are you planning to use?

The arms should droop all the way down when it is not connected to the shocks, with or without wheels. If not, something is binding. When the shocks are connected to the arms, I personally feel that it is best to set the shocks up so that when the shocks are fully extended, the arms reach the full droop setting intended.

Depending on the ride height you set the car for, you may end up with arms not drooping on its own weight to the downstop end points when the shocks are connected. I think they should extend to the end in order for the suspension to work properly.

As an example, when using -2 front droop, I find that when using say 64 mm front tires and setting front ride height as 5, it is impossible for me to make the shocks extend to its ends so that the arms would reach to the end of the downstop point. I need to use a very small tire (60 mm and below) to be able to utilise the full front droop provided by the -2 setting and still maintain a front ride height of 5mm.

So the solution for you is to run smaller tires if you want to use a lot of droop. If you're using large tires, try limiting the droop. Anyway, using a lot of droop with large tires is never recommeded. Traction roll could be your problem.

At anytime, the suspension should be turned down to set it such that the shocks will extend the arms to the droop setting intended.
The arms seem to have freed up now - not sure what it was. I took the back plate off (where the rear body support mounts onto) and put it back on again, after which the arms dropped nicely down.

I'm still using a standard setup for the 705, so the downstops are set to +7 at the rear and I've set the ride height to 6mm on 64mm tyres.
What you explained about the front is exactly what I'm experiencing, I think.

Just run that last point by me again - how do you mean the suspension should be turned down - do you mean that the shocks should be made longer than what the manual says?

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 07-06-2003, 11:23 AM   #2380
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Hey Mark, I know and I remembered you telling me Just pulling a fast one on ya Could have used something of a smaller digicam for that

I thought the D1 is still new... Like 1 or 2 years max?
AHA! Smaller digicam

The D1 has been around for a few years now - not sure how old mine is now - nearly four years old, I think
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Old 07-06-2003, 11:27 AM   #2381
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Yup, I thought I was the only one having the problem... I was initially using the stock standard steel pivot balls which are longer when mounting the FC steering blocks. I thought the pivot balls were the problem. Turned out that it was still the same problem reaching 200 mm front trackwidth when I used the shortened aluminum pivot balls. Still, steering is noticeably better and much more controlled The FC steering blocks are a keeper I also find that they are more durable than the old steering blocks too. Took quite a bashing this weekend and surprisingly, the aluminum pivot balls and the FC steering blocks stood up
Sounds good!!! I've not got my car up and running since I had the last accident - lots of parts were required - both right hand axles, steering block - couple of new shocks (the pistons snapped in half ), right rear block where the suspension is mounted on to and the suspension arms as a pre-caution.

I need to paint a new body shell too - the whole front end of my old (old, it was only two weeks old ) body shell was destroyed by my WOT crash.
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Old 07-06-2003, 11:31 AM   #2382
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Really I just got the right rear lower arm from rccarinternational - hmm, maybe I ordered the wrong part, but I'm sure I used the 705 part list to order it. Anyway, I replaced it as a precaution due to a very bad crash on the right handside. Do you think the older part may be shorter? If I line up the hudy board concurs with the 2mm longer right hand side
I really don't know if they are shorter. Did you ever noticed this before on the stock arms when assembling? I know that they come from the older batch because there is no hole for you to mount the shocks at the mid rear lower arm. Notice the missing hole? Don't worry, it's still the same part number (808359). Just that Serpent revised the lower rear arm a little. The newer ones come with this hole in the middle of the arm.

http://www.mytsn.com/products/desc.asp?prid=2423

Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
As for the shocks, I just rebuilt them and didn't clean up all the excess oil so thez do look a bit leaky
Heheh, a good camera doesn't hide all those nitty gritty stuff

Anyway, since you mentioned that you redid your rear shocks, did you check their lengths to see if they are equal left anf right? Another thing to check is the screws that go into the 7 mm spacer on the upper rear arm to the rear uprights. Check to see if they are screwed in properly.
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Old 07-06-2003, 11:41 AM   #2383
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I really don't know if they are shorter. Did you ever noticed this before on the stock arms when assembling? I know that they come from the older batch because there is no hole for you to mount the shocks at the mid rear lower arm. Notice the missing hole? Don't worry, it's still the same part number (808359). Just that Serpent revised the lower rear arm a little. The newer ones come with this hole in the middle of the arm.

http://www.mytsn.com/products/desc.asp?prid=2423



Heheh, a good camera doesn't hide all those nitty gritty stuff

Anyway, since you mentioned that you redid your rear shocks, did you check their lengths to see if they are equal left anf right? Another thing to check is the screws that go into the 7 mm spacer on the upper rear arm to the rear uprights. Check to see if they are screwed in properly.
I did notice the lack of the hole, but thought it may have been a moulding problem - I'll swap it back to the older newer one, ehm, if you know what I mean.

The shock lengths are also correct - already checked those and the 7mm spacer is firmly screwed down - it must be the rear arm! Strange!

Ok, seeing as my D1 shows off that I'm too lazy, I'll use my Canon Ixus from now on
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Old 07-06-2003, 11:50 AM   #2384
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Default Re: Re: Re: Suspension arms

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Originally posted by markp27
Just run that last point by me again - how do you mean the suspension should be turned down - do you mean that the shocks should be made longer than what the manual says?
I didn't have to make the shocks longer than they should... Just that the shocks need to be able to fully extend to it's full length.

I would think that looking at the picture of your rear shocks and the position of the shock collar, the shock will not extend itself fully to it's full length. Look at the picture attached of one of my rear shocks. Anything smaller than the gap the shock collars make, the yellow spring will dance around loose and will not extend and push the shock shaft out.

Heheh, notice that I'm taking every opportunity to show off pics from my lowly Coolpix whenever I can
Attached Images
File Type: jpg rear_shock.jpg (170.3 KB, 63 views)
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Old 07-06-2003, 11:52 AM   #2385
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Originally posted by markp27
AHA! Smaller digicam

The D1 has been around for a few years now - not sure how old mine is now - nearly four years old, I think
Heheh, I don't mind exchanging my smaller 3 year digicam with your bigger 4 year old D1
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