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Old 07-05-2003, 06:33 PM   #2356
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If I am running a new car and a new engine for the first time I never set the car up completely. Just put it together with everything straight as per the manual and run in the engine. Then as the engine starts to free up the car will have freed up a good bit also and only then will you be able to make proper set up adjustments.

Any set up adjustments you make prior to freeing up the movement of the car will be in vain as the car is too tight and stiff to know whether everythings is exact or not.
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Old 07-05-2003, 06:40 PM   #2357
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supra buddy....just do the rough settings while your building it,as they are outlined in the manual..

then run it around for awhile like Modellor says..then set it up..

not only do arms free up,springs settle,seals wear in,gears mesh,etc..
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Old 07-05-2003, 08:39 PM   #2358
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ok.. thanks a lot...
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Old 07-05-2003, 08:44 PM   #2359
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Does anyone have a fix for the horrible alignment in the arms for the hinge pins on the 705? I had to ream the holes out to .125" and have .125" hinge pins custom made from drill blank. It was a pain in the butt, but I definately had the suspension free-d up.
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Old 07-05-2003, 08:47 PM   #2360
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Thumbs down Wait for it to free up???????

Quote:
Originally posted by modellor
If I am running a new car and a new engine for the first time I never set the car up completely. Just put it together with everything straight as per the manual and run in the engine. Then as the engine starts to free up the car will have freed up a good bit also and only then will you be able to make proper set up adjustments.

Any set up adjustments you make prior to freeing up the movement of the car will be in vain as the car is too tight and stiff to know whether everythings is exact or not.
I still don`t know what you guys are doing, when I build my Serpents I take the time during assembly to free everything up.
Sure springs may settle a bit,but you should`nt have to wait for susspension arms to work propperly. It does take an extra few hours to do this but the first time you go out its one less thing to wonder about,you know your susspension is freed up!
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Old 07-05-2003, 09:36 PM   #2361
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Calm down there Slot…….
Some of these guys have more patient then you and me!!
Waiting for the arms to free-up works just as good as taking the time to do so.
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Old 07-05-2003, 11:07 PM   #2362
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Default Re: Wait for it to free up???????

Quote:
Originally posted by Slotmachine
I still don`t know what you guys are doing, when I build my Serpents I take the time during assembly to free everything up.
Sure springs may settle a bit,but you should`nt have to wait for susspension arms to work propperly. It does take an extra few hours to do this but the first time you go out its one less thing to wonder about,you know your susspension is freed up!
Slot,
I would agree a Pro would do that and will notice even the slight different but to a biginner? Does it really matter if he going to bash in the wide open parking car lot? Just put a lil bit of senario.

Last edited by nizee; 07-05-2003 at 11:16 PM.
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Old 07-05-2003, 11:25 PM   #2363
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I wouldn't set a car down on the track that had suspension binds etc. makes the car unpredictable, and very hard to drive. I take hours of my time to build each car I get, has to be perfect before it goes onto the track.
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Old 07-06-2003, 03:17 AM   #2364
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Hey xax, still have not found the solution? Can you check if the rear springs you are using are indeed the rear ones which is suppose to be longer than the front springs? Perhaps if you can take a photo of the problem you're having, we may be able to help you point out what is wrong with the shocks.

To answer your question, yes. You can use the pre tension spring to make the suspension "longer". In fact they are very good for bumpy tracks as it absorbs the small bumps without working through the entire shock suspension. This is good because the car will remain flat and stable while still able to absorb all the small bumps.
Hi i finally able to raise the ride height by adding my old v one s shock spacer.Btw would adding 3mm of fuel line in the front drive shaft would have cost the rear height ?
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Old 07-06-2003, 04:55 AM   #2365
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Default Suspension arms

Hi Guys,

Shouldn't the suspension arms on the 705 drop down onto the downstops under their own weight? (when the wheels are attached - should it be the same without the wheels?)

On mine, neither the front nor the rear arms drop under their own weight. Should I take some plastic off them with some fine abrasive paper, until the movement loosens up?

The movement of the arms is smooth, i.e. there are no sticking points.

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 07-06-2003, 09:36 AM   #2366
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Default Re: Wait for it to free up???????

Quote:
Originally posted by Slotmachine
I still don`t know what you guys are doing, when I build my Serpents I take the time during assembly to free everything up.
Sure springs may settle a bit,but you should`nt have to wait for susspension arms to work propperly. It does take an extra few hours to do this but the first time you go out its one less thing to wonder about,you know your susspension is freed up!
Ok,

So you like to take a few extra hours and make sure everything is free. Fine. But here's a little tech info for you. For each part to work perfectly under racing conditions it has to be a snug fit yet still free. By running the car around all the parts wear to that perfect snug fit and become free to move without incurring any slop. Fair enough, if you take the time you could probably make the parts a perfect fit by hand but you also increase the chance of inducing highly unnecessary slop.

Someone also stated that they wouldnt set a car down on the track until it was completely free. Well, neither will I. I run the car in a local carpark until it is free all round before it touches a track also. I am no amateur or beginner and I only use the best proven methods over the past 16yrs.

Bad ideas - Drilling out the wishbone to fit the hingepins. Unless the wishbone is held in a support and the drill is of the vertical or horizontal bench type it is impossible to drill out a hole accurately. The drill has torque power which will try to pull it to one side and while it may appear to track down the hinge pin hole it will run slightly to one side. This leaves slop on the hinge pin.

Hair dryers are also bad idea. Heating the plastic will warp the wishbone plastic (maybe unnoticeable to the eye) Again this will induce hingepin wear and at worst cause the car to be in a constant state of unbalance. Even if the wishbone survives the heating and doesnt warp the plastic will cool at different rates throughtout a given wishbone which will cause uneven flex rate in the plastic which again will give a constant unbalanced car.

Believe me, if spending an extra 3 or 4 hrs would be beneficial I would gladly stop spending 5-10 hrs + running the car around to get it freed properly.
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Old 07-06-2003, 10:22 AM   #2367
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Quote:
Originally posted by Randman
Does anyone have a fix for the horrible alignment in the arms for the hinge pins on the 705? I had to ream the holes out to .125" and have .125" hinge pins custom made from drill blank. It was a pain in the butt, but I definately had the suspension free-d up.
Why did you have to get .125" hinge pins custom made? Couldn't you have used a 3 mm drill bit instead to ream out the holes in the arms? The hinge pins from the kit are exactly 3 mm. I did it on mine and the fit was perfect.
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Old 07-06-2003, 10:24 AM   #2368
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Quote:
Originally posted by Randman
I wouldn't set a car down on the track that had suspension binds etc. makes the car unpredictable, and very hard to drive. I take hours of my time to build each car I get, has to be perfect before it goes onto the track.
Yes, me too I like to have my car set correctly from the get go
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Old 07-06-2003, 10:38 AM   #2369
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Hi Guys,

Another question: Something funny going on in my rear suspension...To get the correct camber and toe in on the right hand side I have to turn out the pivot balls about 2mm more than on the left hand side! I don't know what is going on here and would appreciate some advice.

BTW: I've check to make sure the ride hight and the downstops are the same on both sides, which they are.

Hopefully you can see the pivot ball threads in the picture below:
Attached Images
File Type: jpg dsc_3182.jpg (99.4 KB, 51 views)

Last edited by markp27; 07-06-2003 at 10:52 AM.
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Old 07-06-2003, 10:38 AM   #2370
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Quote:
Originally posted by supra528
ok...i got some pics of the car... see what you think of ride height and any other stuff... srry that the pics are blurry and bad... its really early for me and im half asleep...
Well done Finally... We never thought you would get around to posting pics

Some comments on your car...

1. You may just want to install the throttle / brake servo UNDER the radio plate. Lower CG.

2. If you're running a clockwise track, you might want to fit the nipple on the tank on the opposite side. For counter clockwise track, the position of the nipple on the tank is correct.

3. You may want to install the MIP temperature gauge right beside the fuel tank nearest to the pipe. Use a double sided tape. I find it neater that way. Just personal preference.

4. The caster clips setting may be too agressive for you. Too little caster angle. Depends on your setup, you may have too much off power steering (oversteer) and too little on power steering. Increase the caster angle and go for something in between and set from there to your liking once you get the car on the track.

5. The steering servo wire is looking for trouble. If I were you, I'll loop the servo wire through one of the two hole openings on the radio tray (in between the tank and the steering servo). I prefer the hole nearest to the exhaust pipe.
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