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Old 06-29-2003, 04:33 PM   #2221
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Talking droop!

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Strange... The downstops seem normal. What method are you using to change the car's ride height?

To increase the car's rear ride height, you need to turn down the shock collars on the rear shocks so that the rear springs will compress more. The smaller the tires, the more the shock collars need to be turned down.
InitiaiD is correct..but he forgot 1 important factor,when you rais the car you also need to go to a lower # on your droop gauges to account for the ride height change.
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Old 06-29-2003, 08:43 PM   #2222
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Default Re: droop!

Quote:
Originally posted by Slotmachine
InitiaiD is correct..but he forgot 1 important factor,when you rais the car you also need to go to a lower # on your droop gauges to account for the ride height change.
You got me dude

But if he set the droop settings at the 7 mm ride height and assuming he manages to sort out the problem concerning his ability to increase his ride height and maintains it back to 7 mm when the tires wear down, I don't think he needs to change the droop settings that he set previously.

Changing droop settings only applies when you purposely set the car's ride height to lower the chassis than you previously set before. Say if you were previously on a ride height of 7 mm front and back with 66 mm tires (say the front droop +1 and rear droop +8 is set) and now you decide that you want to use 62 mm tires to get a ride height of 5 mm front and back, then you need to add front and rear droop by 2 (i.e. front -1, rear +6) so that you get the same suspension uptravel as you intended the car to have in the first place when with 66 mm tires. This is the same method you need to apply when you refer to the different droop setups having different tire diameters that are on mytsn.

Here's something more... If you meddle with the car's ride height by using different tire diameters, then only the droop settings will need to be changed. If you meddle the car's ride height by using the collar of the shocks with the same (or different tire diameter), not only do you need to reset the droop settings, you also need to reset the camber of the wheels. Usually, the camber of the wheels do not change much if the ride height change by shock collars is minimal.

That is why when you're on a track and you suddenly find that your car is traction rolling in the front, the fastest way I use to cure the problem is to lower the front ride height. By lowering the front ride height, most of the times I cure the problem on the spot. Or that's what I thought initially...

Upon further investigation, by just lowering the front ride height without changing anything else to the front part of the car does not only lowers the CG of the car. The other things that are affected and changed are as follows;

1. Limits the front droop
2. If you change ride height with shock collars, then your negative camber will be reduced, thus reducing front traction.

The above are some of the ways to reduce traction rolling. Reducing the front ride height just by using the shock collars is a combination of things that you could do separately to reduce front traction rolling problems. Something to think about it...

Lastly from what I found out recently from reading the 705 forum on mytsn is that the front roll center increases (less front roll, less front traction) when you use smaller front tires but maintain the same front ride height as before. Food for thought...
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Old 06-29-2003, 08:54 PM   #2223
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Quote:
Originally posted by supra528
ok... i just went out to get my radio... its the new jr xr3i... think it'll be good for racing?? its got a high torque steering servo stock too so... yah... im going to take pics right now
What high torque servos are those? Usually for steering, fast servos of about 8kg torque. For throttle / brakes, high torque.

My personal advise is if you have the cash, invest on good pair of digital servos or at least good analog ones. Then slowly upgrade your Tx/Rx when you feel the need.
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Old 06-29-2003, 09:50 PM   #2224
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Thumbs up Good answer

InitialD.......Good answer, but if you are on a budget like I am and run the same tires all day until they are down to the rim, things have to be readjusted. I know in a perfect world, just put another set of tires on, but like I say you do what you have to do.
Budget Racer...........R/CPainter
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Old 06-29-2003, 10:23 PM   #2225
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Default Re: Good answer

Quote:
Originally posted by Slotmachine
InitialD.......Good answer, but if you are on a budget like I am and run the same tires all day until they are down to the rim, things have to be readjusted. I know in a perfect world, just put another set of tires on, but like I say you do what you have to do.
Budget Racer...........R/CPainter
Thanks Don't get me wrong. I'm not suggesting that everytime you need to maintain your tire diameter, your ride height and droop settings, you go out and get a fresh set of trued tires to get everything perfect... I too run on a budget as far as possible. I recycle my tires, mark their diameters and shores and put them aside when I find that there is too much difference in wear between the rear and the front tires. Usually the rear tires. Don't want to create to much front overdrive. When I find a front tire with a suitable diameter, then I'll reuse the tires I kept previously. You may end up with a buck load of tires but in the long run, you get every mm of performance from the tires.

In order to do this, you need to be able to change and maintain your ride height as you go along when the tires wear.
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Old 06-29-2003, 10:42 PM   #2226
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Well... another great day of racing! But...there was some problem! in the past 3 race, I was unable to finish the race!! I start to get the car to grip a bit better...but..some how ..the car is really loose when comming out of the cornor/big sweep when I put in the power.

Any how..I manage to get it going well...I rebuilt the shock and put the shock to the 1st hole inside of the shock tower. I also have to remove the rear sway bar just so I can get a bit more rear traction. Also..I have to reduce my caster...to get the car going... the track is kind a cold because of the rain just stop and there is no sun ... just really windy day.

Any ways..here is the problem that I have...I broke the rear out drive axel (the one that stay in the upright.) Just smap and broke it. I was never broke this b4....I find it really strange to me. Any how...It must to hit so hard that it smap and bork it.

Also ...I have Hightach digital servos.. i'n not sure what # of the servos saver to use... I think I use 23.....some how it seem to fit nicely tight... but..now it start to strip out...what is the proper # for the servos saver adaptor to use??

Any how... In the past 3 weeks...I was never finish the race!! and all those weeks... I have the lead (1st place) during the A main until the 2nd half of the main...then the car went....

So..now is the questions... Any one have any idea how to bullet proooffff...705 .....though out the car??

Thanks...
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Old 06-29-2003, 11:07 PM   #2227
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Quote:
Originally posted by superk
Well... another great day of racing! But...there was some problem! in the past 3 race, I was unable to finish the race!! I start to get the car to grip a bit better...but..some how ..the car is really loose when comming out of the cornor/big sweep when I put in the power.
The problem that you're mentioning about not having enough on power steering could be due to the fact that your rear shocks are too soft. The rear shocks may be bottoming out easily. The car's weight transfer goes to the rear easily on power. Try using thinker shock oil in the rear (still relatively thinner than the front) or go to a harder spring. Perhaps in the absense of the rear sway bar, the effect is made worse... I find that using a harder rear sway bar, the rear gets more stable while cornerning and I get very nice on power steering out of the corners. If you're not having enough rear traction, usually tire selection and enough rear negative camber will solve your problem.


Quote:
Originally posted by superk
Any ways..here is the problem that I have...I broke the rear out drive axel (the one that stay in the upright.) Just smap and broke it. I was never broke this b4....I find it really strange to me. Any how...It must to hit so hard that it smap and bork it.
Which part is this? Wheel axle (801315)? I broke mine too when I tightened my rear wheenut. I think the stock ones that come with the kit are somewhat brittle. If you need a replacement, I suggest you get the Hudy spring steel ones (801314). They last much longer. I have in my Impulse PRO and they have lasted 1.5 years already.

Quote:
Originally posted by superk
Also ...I have Hightach digital servos.. i'n not sure what # of the servos saver to use... I think I use 23.....some how it seem to fit nicely tight... but..now it start to strip out...what is the proper # for the servos saver adaptor to use??
Unfortunately, Hitec servos are not supported by Serpent until recently. They just came out with the servo saver insert meant for the Hitec servos. Check it out here. Else, I think you can use 3rd party servo saver inserts that are made from say Team Magic for the Hitec servo. I think they fit.

Quote:
Originally posted by superk
Any how... In the past 3 weeks...I was never finish the race!! and all those weeks... I have the lead (1st place) during the A main until the 2nd half of the main...then the car went....
Any car would be the same. I think it's just a sheer run of bad luck...

Quote:
Originally posted by superk
So..now is the questions... Any one have any idea how to bullet proooffff...705 .....though out the car??
Bullet proof the 705? If you have the money, just get all trhe Hudy spring steel options for the dogbones, the outdrives and the axles. That would be very costly. I usually replace them with the Hudy ones when the stock carbon steel ones break. I think if you were driving other cars, you would not even have survived to be leading in the first place... Have you thought about that?
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Old 06-29-2003, 11:44 PM   #2228
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I'll say!! pure bad luck!! I know I have a great car!! I just have to make sure I go though all the parts b4 the main again!!

as far as the servos saver goes...may be I have to use my other aftermarket one. For now... I thought ...one of those adaptor will fit....gee...not they shold na say some thing in the manuel!!

any how..It was the drive axle... (not the dog bone...it the part that stay in between the bairings inside of the upright)....if there is an upgrade one...I'll deffinetely get one for sure!!

I think..I"m going to take it aparts and go thought the setup again...some how I took out the sway bar...it seem like I gain a bit more tracktion in the rear.... I run 6mm ride hight... u may be right...my rear might be a bit too soft....because...I use the tires that I got fro the car...I think they are 30mm 35 shore. SO..for sure..the tyers are good.

One more question....do you ever have any probelm with the rear belt come off the rear diff?? because it happen to me today. I readjust the brake pullie...still it seem like the pullie stay a bit far off the diff gear...is there any fix??

Thanks again.
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Old 06-29-2003, 11:50 PM   #2229
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ok... good idea guys..
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Old 06-29-2003, 11:58 PM   #2230
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Quote:
Originally posted by superk
any how..It was the drive axle... (not the dog bone...it the part that stay in between the bairings inside of the upright)....if there is an upgrade one...I'll deffinetely get one for sure!!
Then the Hudy spring steel ones are the ones to get (801314).

Quote:
Originally posted by superk
I think..I"m going to take it aparts and go thought the setup again...some how I took out the sway bar...it seem like I gain a bit more tracktion in the rear.... I run 6mm ride hight... u may be right...my rear might be a bit too soft....because...I use the tires that I got fro the car...I think they are 30mm 35 shore. SO..for sure..the tyers are good.
Yes, in the absense of a rear sway bar, the rear end will be softer. The thing about sway bars is that it allows you to run very soft suspension and yet prevents the car from rolling excessively. I say keep the rear sway bar in and tune the tires and suspension.

The stock rear tires that come with the kit is 35 shore. You may want to use 40 shore all round front and rear and see how it goes.

Quote:
Originally posted by superk
One more question....do you ever have any probelm with the rear belt come off the rear diff?? because it happen to me today. I readjust the brake pullie...still it seem like the pullie stay a bit far off the diff gear...is there any fix??
Make sure the brake pulley is secured on the main 2 speed shaft as close as possible to the brake disc without the pins from the brake pulley adapter touching the right rear bearing block. That should keep the belt from slipping out.
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Old 06-30-2003, 07:17 AM   #2231
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i have turn the collar right to the end and like wat i said the max is only 7mm and the ride height gets lower when the tyres wears and eventually scratch the chasis and can't get any higher except to change new tyres. Could it be weak spring or adding of pretension spring to solve it?thks.
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Old 06-30-2003, 08:32 AM   #2232
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One more things...I switch the front oneway to saled axle. But..it seem like my new saled axle...is a bit shorter than the one way. I mean the dog bone seem to sit almost at the end of the out drive from the exle when i put the dag bone all the way out .... SO..what i did is I put a small piece of fule hose inside the drive axle..and it seem to work ok....

Oh..and thost HUDY drive axle is kind a costly! ....but I guess I have got to get it!

I try to search for the Hitech servo adaptor for the servo saver..but.can't find any one who carry it. Any idea who might be carrying it? I need to start order some spair parts. Who got the cheapest price out there??
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Old 06-30-2003, 09:47 AM   #2233
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ok... more questions... on thye servo saver, should i use some force to get it on or what? and i seem to have not gotten the right amount of screws in bag 24.. what should i do there? im missing like 3 screws for one step and 5 for the next... im going to keep looking for them but if i cant find them what should i do?
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Old 06-30-2003, 10:39 AM   #2234
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InitialD thanks for all the help! I'm going to order some parts today.

By the way..what is your setup likes?? How is your car handle?? With the front salid axle...do I have to make any change in the front suspension??
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Old 06-30-2003, 10:58 AM   #2235
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With the solid axle you will probably find you have to run softer front suspension or tires to cancel out the little understeer you get from the solid axle.

With the solid axle I run the car in the stock set up on the front (Yellow springs with 2 holes in the piston), anti-roll bar at 45deg, 40/42 shore tires.
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