R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 06-27-2003, 11:23 AM   #2176
Tech Regular
 
supra528's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: T-Dot/Vancouver-Whistler
Posts: 454
Default

ok... a new problem... lol... how do i get the ball ends onto the anti roll bar? im to cautious right now wit the hammer cuz i dontt want to break anytying... i prob wont anyways... so could u guys tell me how u did it?
supra528 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2003, 11:26 AM   #2177
Tech Master
 
modellor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Northern Ireland
Posts: 1,447
Default

All I did was hold the bar in my hand and squeeze the ball into the eye with my fingers. Hurts the finger tips a bit but it wont destroy the plastic eye. Or you could squeeze it on with a pair of pliers.
modellor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2003, 11:32 AM   #2178
Tech Regular
 
supra528's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: T-Dot/Vancouver-Whistler
Posts: 454
Default

ok... thanks a lot.. ill go do that
supra528 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2003, 11:55 AM   #2179
Tech Prophet
 
InitialD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MORDOR
Posts: 19,679
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by supra528
ok... thanks a lot.. ill go do that
With the new ball cups that come with the kit, one side will snap fit nicely with just the use of your fingers while the other side will be a bitch to snap the sway bar in. Just double check.
InitialD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2003, 12:00 PM   #2180
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 582
Default Ride height

Quote:
Originally posted by PUNISHER
What is your ride hieght!?!?
-2 on your camber when compressed with a 4mm ride hieght will make -6 in the camber!


Nothing wrong with that math......
I am not concerned with the math............
I was using the Hudy 1/10th scale setup board, So whatever the "blocks" are is the ride height I was using..........
Normally I start with 62mm tires and set the ride height to 5.5mm in the front and 6mm in the rear.
BSYDOR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2003, 12:08 PM   #2181
Tech Prophet
 
InitialD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MORDOR
Posts: 19,679
Default Re: Re: Upright spacers - again

Quote:
Originally posted by BSYDOR
I then checked the suspension ( shocks/ oil ) and noticed that when compressed the Hudy gauge went from 2* to 6*...........
Is it just me or is that a lot of camber change???
What I do is I set the ride height on the Hudy gauges first to 7 mm for example by compressing / releasing the shock collars so that if I use a 62 mm tire, the actual final ride height will be 5 mm. Compress the shocks a few times so that they settle on rebound.

Next, once the ride height on the Hudy gauges is fixed, I put the ride height gauge under the chassis and make sure the chassis remains and rest unchanged on the ride height gauge at 7 mm. I do this to make sure that when I set the camber, the setting is based on the 7 mm ride height on the Hudy gauge. This is important as when ride height changes, camber also changes.

For the rear, I set the toe in first, then to set the camber, I make equal turns out / in on each pivot ball so that the toe-in remains unchanged.
InitialD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2003, 12:11 PM   #2182
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 582
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by modellor
Hi Bill.

It is possible you could be getting too much front end chassis roll and then rear wheel to the inside of the turn is then lifting after the front outside wheel compresses so far.

Try running with a front anti-roll bar even if set at the weakest setting.

Hey Campbell,

Been there, done that. Made the rear traction worse.
Do you think it might be because of my chassis is tweeked,
I have a .5mm difference from the centerline of the front wheels
to the nose of the car.
BSYDOR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2003, 12:12 PM   #2183
Tech Prophet
 
InitialD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MORDOR
Posts: 19,679
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by modellor
Hi Bill.

It is possible you could be getting too much front end chassis roll and then rear wheel to the inside of the turn is then lifting after the front outside wheel compresses so far.

Try running with a front anti-roll bar even if set at the weakest setting.
Yup Again, try using front sway bar at the softest setting, use Nitro Shoes 40 shore on your current setup. If you're getting too much off throttle steering (which I think you would), reduce rear droop from +4 to maybe +6. Fine tune with the front sway bar.
InitialD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2003, 12:17 PM   #2184
Tech Prophet
 
InitialD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MORDOR
Posts: 19,679
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by BSYDOR
I have a .5mm difference from the centerline of the front wheels to the nose of the car.
As long as the bend happens before the 1st front screw that locks the front bearing block, you car will not be tweaked. The front part of the chassis usually bends at the weak point, which is at the 1st front screw that locks the front bearing blocks.
InitialD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2003, 12:18 PM   #2185
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 582
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Yup Again, try using front sway bar at the softest setting, use Nitro Shoes 40 shore on your current setup. If you're getting too much off throttle steering (which I think you would), reduce rear droop from +4 to maybe +6. Fine tune with the front sway bar.
Thanks for the info,
I'll try your suggestion, nothing to lose but to go faster.
BSYDOR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2003, 12:38 PM   #2186
Tech Prophet
 
InitialD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MORDOR
Posts: 19,679
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by BSYDOR
Thanks for the info,
I'll try your suggestion, nothing to lose but to go faster.
Not a problem. Just thought that I found it strange that a rear droop of +4 is required... It's been a long time since I saw that on an Impulse / 705. If you're at that setting, it's either you're using front gear diffs or solid axle.
InitialD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2003, 12:42 PM   #2187
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 582
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Not a problem. Just thought that I found it strange that a rear droop of +4 is required... It's been a long time since I saw that on an Impulse / 705. If you're at that setting, it's either you're using front gear diffs or solid axle.
One way in front and a ball diff (47/22) in the rear.
I have played with the droop and with my set-up it felt
better with more
BSYDOR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2003, 12:48 PM   #2188
Tech Regular
 
taz5176's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 271
Default ride height

hi guys
do u guys do the ride height 1st or last?

i did my ride height 1st & adjusted my camber as well, i found tat after adjusting my camber, my ride height increases. so i reduce my ride height & my camber increases again. is this normal?
taz5176 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2003, 12:51 PM   #2189
Tech Prophet
 
InitialD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MORDOR
Posts: 19,679
Default

My guess also could be that you've too much rear traction on the car with the spacers off...
InitialD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2003, 01:01 PM   #2190
Tech Prophet
 
InitialD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MORDOR
Posts: 19,679
Default Re: ride height

Quote:
Originally posted by taz5176
hi guys
do u guys do the ride height 1st or last?

i did my ride height 1st & adjusted my camber as well, i found tat after adjusting my camber, my ride height increases. so i reduce my ride height & my camber increases again. is this normal?
You must set the ride height first before doing other settings on the car. I find it strange that the ride height changes after setting the camber...

Set the ride height on the Hudy gauges if you have one. The Hudy gauge ride height is based on a 66 mm diameter tire. If you want to use a 62 mm diameter tire and you want a ride height of 5 mm on it, then you need to set the ride height of 7 mm (66-62 = 4, 4/2 = 2, 2 + 5 = 7) when the car is on the Hudy gauges. The 7 mm here is what is called as setup ride height. This measurement is often referred in the setup sheets in mytsn.

Try out the suggestion I mentioned earlier. Fix the ride height of the car at 7 mm (or any other ride height intended) when the car is on the Hudy gauges by letting the chassis of the car sit on the ride height block at the 7 mm mark (or any other ride height intended). This way when you set the cambers, you base it on a fixed ride height.
InitialD is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Serpent 710 Ron C. Nitro On-Road 23347 03-16-2010 02:47 PM
WTB: NIB Serpent 710 aN4rK1 R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 3 06-16-2006 09:23 PM
Serpent 835 JFCJ R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 3 02-20-2005 09:29 PM
Trade in Your Old Serpent 710 Parts for New Serpent 710 Parts fast_it710 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 0 09-17-2004 12:27 AM
Serpent Impulse w/MT-12 and Serpent Starter box - cheap Solara R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 2 03-07-2003 03:01 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 06:12 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net