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Old 06-26-2003, 10:29 PM   #2161
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Pixi Black

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Originally posted by nizee
But then again. Ask 10 different people u get 10 different answer from their bias opinion. I am...
Any motor is good on the track. Its control and that's what matter.
Heheh, power without control...

After seeing a NovaMax perform on the track and having played around with one, I'm very biased towards this engine
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Old 06-26-2003, 10:31 PM   #2162
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u know where the bearing are and stuff?? like where the diff goes into?? well... i just cant get it in... ill try again right now
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Old 06-26-2003, 10:33 PM   #2163
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ok yeah... i got it.. thnx alot...
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Old 06-26-2003, 10:40 PM   #2164
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Pixi Black

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Originally posted by InitialD
Slotmachine mentioned that the replacement piston liner had different lenghts... I was thinking probably the Pixy had two (or more) revisions. I've seen in my LHS and I know that the current ones come with a new carb that is bored out open like a JP carb. It could be that the one you bought off Ebay was an old one. I know that the Pixy 5 port Outlaw is surely a new revision.
So is this new or old?
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Old 06-26-2003, 10:52 PM   #2165
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Pixi Black

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Originally posted by nizee
So is this new or old?
Can't really tell until you clean the car

Seriously, the one I saw at the LHS had a shiny bored out bowl like carb just like the carb on a JP engine. Can't really tell from your pic.
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Old 06-26-2003, 11:05 PM   #2166
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Pixi Black

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Originally posted by InitialD
Can't really tell until you clean the car

Seriously, the one I saw at the LHS had a shiny bored out bowl like carb just like the carb on a JP engine. Can't really tell from your pic.
Ok, Ok...will do it next weekend...

Anyway, i took another shot with a light. On the right is JP S3 carb and on the left is Pixy. The JP looks more cut thru it.

Better?
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Old 06-27-2003, 01:31 AM   #2167
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Pixi Black

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Originally posted by nizee
Ok, Ok...will do it next weekend...

Anyway, i took another shot with a light. On the right is JP S3 carb and on the left is Pixy. The JP looks more cut thru it.

Better?
Yep, better I think yours look like the new batch with the bored out carb. Just to confirm, I'll go and take a seond look at the Pixy in the LHS
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Old 06-27-2003, 09:34 AM   #2168
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ok... Another question...lol... on the anti roll bar in the rear, the turnbuckle things that go onto it, how do you screw the ball cup onto the turn buckle?>? cuz i got one on but i cant get the other end on... nor can i get any other on... any suggestions on how to do this??
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Old 06-27-2003, 09:40 AM   #2169
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Quote:
Originally posted by supra528
ok... Another question...lol... on the anti roll bar in the rear, the turnbuckle things that go onto it, how do you screw the ball cup onto the turn buckle?>? cuz i got one on but i cant get the other end on... nor can i get any other on... any suggestions on how to do this??
Check the threading... On one side it is clockwise and the other is counterclockwise
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Old 06-27-2003, 10:27 AM   #2170
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u are a genious... lol... thnx for the tip... ill go try that as soon as i eat breakfeast
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Old 06-27-2003, 10:35 AM   #2171
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yup.. sure works... thnx so much
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Old 06-27-2003, 10:37 AM   #2172
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Default Re: Upright spacers - again

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Originally posted by BSYDOR
Initial D,

A buddy of mine was watching my car go through the infield section at my local track and noticed that the inside rear tire was lifting off the asphalt. Do you believe that is due to not enough droop in the rear of the car-( because I don't have a spacer in there), which then tends to loose traction in the rear too? I am going to check my upper a-arm on the "binding" issue. I am currently using + 4 droop.


Guys--
Checked it last night- no binding of the arms....
I even took the upper arm off to see how far the lower arm would travel, plus checked the droop screws ( removed ), and the up-stop screws, which weren't being used anyway (removed). I put back the 5mm spacer and set the camber to 2* and toe-in of 2.5*.
I then checked the suspension ( shocks/ oil ) and noticed that when compressed the Hudy gauge went from 2* to 6*...........
Is it just me or is that a lot of camber change???
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Old 06-27-2003, 10:43 AM   #2173
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Quote:
Originally posted by modellor
I would reckon you are getting too much chassis roll from not using the rear anti-roll bar. I run about +4 droop myself and never have seen this problem yet.
I am currently running a 1.5mm rear sway bar, and no front one.
Also my track is rather small, 180 x 80. And the fastest lap on it so far has been 12.3 seconds for one lap. And the best I have got is a 12.9, twice....

Last edited by BSYDOR; 06-27-2003 at 10:48 AM.
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Old 06-27-2003, 11:19 AM   #2174
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Hi Bill.

It is possible you could be getting too much front end chassis roll and then rear wheel to the inside of the turn is then lifting after the front outside wheel compresses so far.

Try running with a front anti-roll bar even if set at the weakest setting.
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Old 06-27-2003, 11:21 AM   #2175
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Default Re: Re: Upright spacers - again

Quote:
Originally posted by BSYDOR
Guys--
Checked it last night- no binding of the arms....
I even took the upper arm off to see how far the lower arm would travel, plus checked the droop screws ( removed ), and the up-stop screws, which weren't being used anyway (removed). I put back the 5mm spacer and set the camber to 2* and toe-in of 2.5*.
I then checked the suspension ( shocks/ oil ) and noticed that when compressed the Hudy gauge went from 2* to 6*...........
Is it just me or is that a lot of camber change???
What is your ride hieght!?!?
-2 on your camber when compressed with a 4mm ride hieght will make -6 in the camber!


Nothing wrong with that math......
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