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Old 06-26-2003, 11:50 AM   #2131
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Default Another Shot Of the Exagon

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Old 06-26-2003, 11:52 AM   #2132
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Old 06-26-2003, 12:53 PM   #2133
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ok.. when did u find out about this engine cuz the info has been out for months now... lol.. not anything new to us
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Old 06-26-2003, 01:30 PM   #2134
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I forgot, you know everything months ahead of everyone else, the question is, do they intend to make a .12 ?????

I would assume some info should be out soon !!!!
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Old 06-26-2003, 01:45 PM   #2135
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well...my 705 have an RB X.12 3port in it and it scream!!! I did a small work in the carb...by open up the intake a litle more like 1/4 to 1/2 of 1mm aproximately...then I open up the mid range for more fule flown...and wow!! the motor was fast!! I was very happy with the results! and the motor run about 210 to 235 degrees!! the car run good 6min on a full tanks!

I also..just bought another 705 w the serio out law...I hope to see a good result with my next car.

PS> Man..those 705 parts is kind an expensive!! LOL.. have to buy a 2nd car for parts!
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Old 06-26-2003, 04:38 PM   #2136
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Default Upright spacers - again

Initial D,

A buddy of mine was watching my car go through the infield section at my local track and noticed that the inside rear tire was lifting off the asphalt. Do you believe that is due to not enough droop in the rear of the car-( because I don't have a spacer in there), which then tends to loose traction in the rear too? I am going to check my upper a-arm on the "binding" issue. I am currently using + 4 droop.
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Old 06-26-2003, 05:17 PM   #2137
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I would reckon you are getting too much chassis roll from not using the rear anti-roll bar. I run about +4 droop myself and never have seen this problem yet.
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Old 06-26-2003, 06:48 PM   #2138
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also, if that wide belt is an option, then wat does it do? and how is it for u??
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Old 06-26-2003, 08:02 PM   #2139
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Quote:
Originally posted by supra528
btw, that belt in the pic, is that an option belt cuz it looks reallly wide..
supra, that belt is not even a Serpent option I got that belt from a belting shop. It's 7 mm wide

If you need a wider belt, you can use the 6361 belt meant for the front of the Vector / Veteq / 950 car. It's 6 mm wide. I recommend that you change the stock 4 mm belt when it is busted (if you bust it). Thinner belts provide less drag. The rear belt hardly gets stripped. The side and the mostly the front gets stripped.
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Old 06-26-2003, 08:05 PM   #2140
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Quote:
Originally posted by supra528
also, if that wide belt is an option, then wat does it do? and how is it for u??
Well, it's just for peace of mind But then again, I changed it when I had the belt and that was during the time I was assembling the car.

More reliability? But I actually never saw a need to change the stock 4 mm rear belt. Change it only when you see the need. The wider the belt, the more drag it gives the car...
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Old 06-26-2003, 08:05 PM   #2141
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ok.. another question... boy.. do they keep coming...lol... anyways, i just finised putting on the rear diff and putting on that top part... now.. the rear belt is looser than the front... is this ok??
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Old 06-26-2003, 08:08 PM   #2142
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Quote:
Originally posted by modellor
I would reckon you are getting too much chassis roll from not using the rear anti-roll bar. I run about +4 droop myself and never have seen this problem yet.
I think he has the rear antiroll bar. Just lacking the front. The front end could be rolling a lot and this could have made the rear end tire lift. Just my suspect.
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Old 06-26-2003, 08:09 PM   #2143
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Default Re: Upright spacers - again

Quote:
Originally posted by BSYDOR
Initial D,

A buddy of mine was watching my car go through the infield section at my local track and noticed that the inside rear tire was lifting off the asphalt. Do you believe that is due to not enough droop in the rear of the car-( because I don't have a spacer in there), which then tends to loose traction in the rear too? I am going to check my upper a-arm on the "binding" issue. I am currently using + 4 droop.
That could be the problem. Maybe there's too much FRONT chassis roll due to the lack of a front sway bar that makes the rear end lift.

Try the front sway bar. If you're lacking steering, set the front sway bar to the softest setting. If you're still lacking front traction, use a softer tire compound or perhaps the 40 shore Nitro Shoes
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Old 06-26-2003, 08:35 PM   #2144
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Quote:
Originally posted by superk
well...my 705 have an RB X.12 3port in it and it scream!!! I did a small work in the carb...by open up the intake a litle more like 1/4 to 1/2 of 1mm aproximately...then I open up the mid range for more fule flown...and wow!! the motor was fast!! I was very happy with the results! and the motor run about 210 to 235 degrees!! the car run good 6min on a full tanks!
When you say you "open up the mid range for more fule flown", what do you mean? Counterclockwise on the brass needle (middle speed needle) or physically opening up and widening the hole of the needle where the main fuel flows?

I thought that the NovaMax egnine that I saw had a larger diameter needle on the mid speed in the carb for bigger flow. I may be wrong.

Quote:
Originally posted by superk
I also..just bought another 705 w the serio out law...I hope to see a good result with my next car.

PS> Man..those 705 parts is kind an expensive!! LOL.. have to buy a 2nd car for parts!
Yes, parts are expensive. Especially for the smaller parts... But generally, the parts last you longer. In a race, I prefer parts that can take the punishing than have parts that are cheap but crap out on you in the middle of a race.

Yes, sometimes getting a second kit for spares may be a good idea. If you look at the economics of it, the overall price of the kit (even brand new and not 2nd hand) will always turn out cheaper than the separate parts combined.

Best is for parts that you will not need as spares like the 2 speed gearbox and ball diff, you can sell them off separately. You may want to have a spare Centax II clutch if you have a spare engine. It's always nice to have your spare engine already fitted with the Centax II clutch. Just pop the engine with clutch in the car and go. People around the pit may think you're somekind of sponsored driver of some sort

Same as for shocks... Having a complete spare set will enable you to build one specifically for different types of tracks. Just swap the shocks and you're good to go
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Old 06-26-2003, 08:38 PM   #2145
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Default Re: Re: Pixi Black

Quote:
Originally posted by nizee
apmk,

There is not much info u can find on the pixy except on Trinity website. And don't bother to ask the tech guy there on this engine problems, did that, basically telling u to do the factory needle setting. I bought it from Ebay from an RC store name FlexT RC, pretty decent price.

Honestly that time, i almost getting rid of the Pixy because of so much hassle i'm facing and putting back my Mod MR12 in there, and in the end i sold my MR-12 and the Pixy stay.

Drop me a PM if u already got the Pixy for some tips.
PIXYS SUCK! Mine has never run anything but hot...were talking 375...give it up and buy a decent motor.
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