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Old 06-24-2003, 10:05 PM   #2101
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Default Aluminum Spacer

I don't see any other spacer other than the 7mm on Serpent website. Anyone know where i can get one or how to improvise one, please. Thanks!
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Old 06-24-2003, 10:20 PM   #2102
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Default Re: Aluminum Spacer

Quote:
Originally posted by apmk
I don't see any other spacer other than the 7mm on Serpent website. Anyone know where i can get one or how to improvise one, please. Thanks!
You can use anything What I use is blown out bearing casings

If there are any small busted bearings left on the ground at the track by other cars, you can pick them up. Smaller bearings are like 4 to 5 mm thick and they are accurate. I use a hammer to take out the inner ring. They work excellent for spacers.
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Old 06-24-2003, 10:21 PM   #2103
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Default Re: Aluminum Spacer

Quote:
Originally posted by apmk
I don't see any other spacer other than the 7mm on Serpent website. Anyone know where i can get one or how to improvise one, please. Thanks!
Made your own spacer. Go to hardware store or hobbystore for some spacer that fit 4mm screw. Here is where the dremel tool come in handy...

I got some friends who is machining to made me a pair of different size spacer. Good to know if u know someone.
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Old 06-25-2003, 04:04 AM   #2104
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Default New T Shirt (1908)

Ummm, this is what the new T Shirt (1908) will look like...

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Old 06-25-2003, 09:41 AM   #2105
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Default my setup

Nizee-

I believe Trinity 37 weight oil would be the equivalent to Serpent oil of a 35 weight ( if they made it). By my assumptions- Trinity 35 is almost equal to Serpent 30 weight. I also ran in the winter months on carpet -- an X-ray - EVO2, with pivot ball suspension with Trinty 35 weight oil and it felt real comparable to Serpents 30 weight too.

Initial D-

Here is what I experimented with last night--
Front--
Camber = 1.5, Droop=0, Trinity 35 weight oil, two holes open on adjustable shocks, blue springs, shocks on the bulkhead, ride height of 5.5mm (measured at centerline of front wheels), Fast tyres/ 40 shore-60mm, 4mm shims in front for caster, Toe-in
of -.05*, 198 width. One-way diff, No Swaybar........
Rear--
Camber = 2.5 ( needs more/ tires cone -outside is smaller) Droop= 4, Trinity 35 weight oil, two holes open on adjustable shocks, red springs, shocks on the bulkhead,
ride height of 6mm, Jaco rear tires/ 40 shore-60mm, toe-in of- 2*,
200mm width, 1.5mm swaybar, no upright spacers.....
Body = Dodge Stratus, Motor= Rossi "Black" Pixi.
1st speed= 50 tooth spur/ 15 tooth pinion,
2nd speed= 45 tooth spur/ 18 tooth pinion.
47/22, 18 side pulley(instead of the 17),which yields an overdrive ratio of 1.0681. The rest of the gears are standard.

It is still loose in the rear ( increase toe-in on rear to 2.5*) but my track has a chicane and then a hard left at about 3/4 throttle, but it is controllable.
This setup for me has been the fastest on my car. I am still about
.06 seconds a lap slower than the "fast guys" at my local track. I have been averaging a 13.4 laps,with one fast lap of 13.0, got it down to 13.2, with two fast laps of 12.9 last night, which made me .

Reason I use different tire combos front and rear-- I noticed the Jaco's have more traction, and don't pick up "marbles". And the Fast tyres are a little less traction for the front, still has tons of steering - better high speed though.....
Also why I measure front at the center line- because my chasis has a 1/2mm dipp in the "nose" section from the centerline of the front tires ( waiting for a 4mm chassis).

Hope this isn't too much info
Regards,
Bill

Last edited by BSYDOR; 06-25-2003 at 09:48 AM.
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Old 06-25-2003, 10:03 AM   #2106
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Default

Quote:
Originally posted by modellor
This is the minor problem with using a balldiff. Because the pulley is not bolted on it can tilt and not run straight. Just push it evenly from several sides until it runs true.
thnx a lot... i have the pics of my car but i dunno how to get them from the program to like the certain drive i want them in.. il [post them soon
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Old 06-25-2003, 10:59 AM   #2107
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Default Re: 7MM upright spacer

Quote:
Originally posted by BSYDOR
Modellor,
Hows the chassis coming?
Coming along just fine now. The main design is all finished and just about to machine a prototype.
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Old 06-25-2003, 11:19 AM   #2108
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Default Re: my setup

Quote:
Originally posted by BSYDOR
Nizee-

I believe Trinity 37 weight oil would be the equivalent to Serpent oil of a 35 weight ( if they made it). By my assumptions- Trinity 35 is almost equal to Serpent 30 weight. I also ran in the winter months on carpet -- an X-ray - EVO2, with pivot ball suspension with Trinty 35 weight oil and it felt real comparable to Serpents 30 weight too.
Ummm, maybe I'm wrong but the Trinity 50 wt and 60 wt shock oils that I'm currently using feels like Serpent 30wt and 35wt respectively...

Quote:
Originally posted by BSYDOR
Initial D-

Here is what I experimented with last night--
Front--
Camber = 1.5, Droop=0, Trinity 35 weight oil, two holes open on adjustable shocks, blue springs, shocks on the bulkhead, ride height of 5.5mm (measured at centerline of front wheels), Fast tyres/ 40 shore-60mm, 4mm shims in front for caster, Toe-in
of -.05*, 198 width. One-way diff, No Swaybar........
Rear--
Camber = 2.5 ( needs more/ tires cone -outside is smaller) Droop= 4, Trinity 35 weight oil, two holes open on adjustable shocks, red springs, shocks on the bulkhead,
ride height of 6mm, Jaco rear tires/ 40 shore-60mm, toe-in of- 2*,
200mm width, 1.5mm swaybar, no upright spacers.....
Body = Dodge Stratus, Motor= Rossi "Black" Pixi.
1st speed= 50 tooth spur/ 15 tooth pinion,
2nd speed= 45 tooth spur/ 18 tooth pinion.
47/22, 18 side pulley(instead of the 17),which yields an overdrive ratio of 1.0681. The rest of the gears are standard.

It is still loose in the rear ( increase toe-in on rear to 2.5*) but my track has a chicane and then a hard left at about 3/4 throttle, but it is controllable.
This setup for me has been the fastest on my car. I am still about
.06 seconds a lap slower than the "fast guys" at my local track. I have been averaging a 13.4 laps,with one fast lap of 13.0, got it down to 13.2, with two fast laps of 12.9 last night, which made me .

Reason I use different tire combos front and rear-- I noticed the Jaco's have more traction, and don't pick up "marbles". And the Fast tyres are a little less traction for the front, still has tons of steering - better high speed though.....
Also why I measure front at the center line- because my chasis has a 1/2mm dipp in the "nose" section from the centerline of the front tires ( waiting for a 4mm chassis).

Hope this isn't too much info
Regards,
Bill
Thanks for the complete reply on the setup

Of particular interest to your setup is the front overdrive. I don't know but for some reason when I happen to watch races on the track sidelines, I find that the cars will turn better after a while. I think this has possibly to do with front overdrive. Unintentionally, these guys who run these cars are not aware that by the rear tires are thinning out faster than the fronts, they provide front overdrive... Even the Team Serpent drivers from Holland tested a slight front overdrive on the car on their cars and they liked how the car steered in the fast sweepers.

I'm quite hessitant to try that much of front overdrive. On paper, I think it's like equivalent to a 5 mm split. For one, it strains the front belt. Secondly, I think by the front wheels pulling the rear, it creates drag which may overheat the engine...

What I'm currently testing out on my Impulse PRO equipped with a Lola style body using 47T, 22T and 18T instead of 17T but running 61 mm front and 66 mm rear tires to keep the front and rear tire rollouts the same. I like the way the car steers. Lots of controlled steering when you need it in tight corners. Turns into fast sweeper easily. The experience is just like riding chopper bikes

Anyway, you should try using 40 shore Nitro Shoes in the front too. I find that they last long and they are as grippy (in fact more grip) than the Italian counterparts.
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Old 06-25-2003, 11:49 AM   #2109
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Default Rear tire wear

Initial D-

With my current over drive ratio-- tire wear is about the same, fronts still wear faster though. Weird...
I tried Jaco's in front once...oversteers-bad

Also have you noticed that the kit "tyres" have an offset to them,
front and rears. My Fast Tyres are zero offset and rub on the original steering hub were the linkage connects, so I space it out 1mm with HPI white spacers, no more rubbage.
And for the rears I just have the Zero offset with the "new" purple hex's that are 10mm- and No upright spacer and gets me to 200 mm..

In regards to the "oils", that has been my interpretation of the "feel" between the two brands. I wish there was a more specific way to tell the difference.

My motor runs at 250-280 degrees normally with air temps of about 90*. and ran great for a 15 min main- and won last night
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Old 06-25-2003, 12:03 PM   #2110
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Default Re: Rear tire wear

Quote:
Originally posted by BSYDOR
Initial D-

With my current over drive ratio-- tire wear is about the same, fronts still wear faster though. Weird...
I tried Jaco's in front once...oversteers-bad
I think with the front overdrive, the front will tend to wear more... Perhaps your oversteer problems with Jaco fronts could be solved by installing a front sway bar or lesser rear droop (+4 to +6)

Quote:
Originally posted by BSYDOR
And for the rears I just have the Zero offset with the "new" purple hex's that are 10mm- and No upright spacer and gets me to 200 mm..
I thought with the old rear purple wheel hex (11 mm), you also would not run into problems if you do not use the upright rear spacer. Problems with the rear trackwidth will only occur when the upper spacer and a certain toe in and camber is used.

Quote:
Originally posted by BSYDOR
In regards to the "oils", that has been my interpretation of the "feel" between the two brands. I wish there was a more specific way to tell the difference.
Yeah but what I can see from the viscosity by just observing the flow, the 35wt Trinity shock oils are way thinner than Serpent 30wt.

Quote:
Originally posted by BSYDOR
My motor runs at 250-280 degrees normally with air temps of about 90*. and ran great for a 15 min main- and won last night
Ummm, those temperatures are high but I think they are about the correct temperatures when racing. The thing I do not like about aluminum carbs is that once the engine reaches those temperatures, it is very difficult to get fuel back in once the engine stalls. You can literally see that the fuel kicks back out of the carb when you try and start the engine. This is what I experience here with Nova base engines. I usually try to run slightly richer and try to hit at about 210 to 220 F.
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Old 06-25-2003, 12:07 PM   #2111
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Default 5 mm Shim

Ummm, though it's not Friday yet, I feel like posting some pics

Here is a pic of the 5 mm spacer that I use which is taken from an inner race of a blown out 6 x 13 x 5 bearing
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Old 06-25-2003, 12:12 PM   #2112
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Default Teflon Brake Pads

I tried to mount the Mugen teflon pads on to the stock Serpent steel brake plates. They are different in shape and therefore they needed to be trimmed.

I tried it last weekend for a few tanks and I must say that the car stops better. It doesn't lock the rear wheels and yet able to slow the car down progressively. The pads do not show that they fade easy either. I must mention that I use the vented brake disc. I will test it further this weekend.
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Old 06-25-2003, 12:28 PM   #2113
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Thumbs up Brake Pads

I`m glad to see some people trying the teflon pads,Ithink they work very well.
Also on the topic of rear spacers,if you dont use somthing on the arm as a spacer, you can not achieve full range of droop because the top arm will bind.I really think this is why Serpent says not to run without one.
(You should only need a lot of droop when the tires are very small)
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Old 06-25-2003, 12:34 PM   #2114
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Default Re: Brake Pads

Quote:
Originally posted by Slotmachine
Also on the topic of rear spacers,if you dont use somthing on the arm as a spacer, you can not achieve full range of droop because the top arm will bind.I really think this is why Serpent says not to run without one.
(You should only need a lot of droop when the tires are very small)
I agree with the part that you need a lot of droop when running small tires... But how can not using the upper spacer cause the top arm to bind? I know your argument makes sense but I think the upper arm should be able to move freely regardless of the upper spacer. Any arm should not be binding in any way.
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Old 06-25-2003, 08:22 PM   #2115
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Default Re: Re: Brake Pads

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I agree with the part that you need a lot of droop when running small tires... But how can not using the upper spacer cause the top arm to bind? I know your argument makes sense but I think the upper arm should be able to move freely regardless of the upper spacer. Any arm should not be binding in any way.
The top arm will not drop as far as you want it to,it stops at the bulk head.
If you take out the rear spacers,remove your shocksand then check your droop you should find as I did that you can not obtain a lower droop #than 3.5to4 on the gauges.I`m not saying you will ever need this low of a #,but it is nice to know that if you want it ,you`ve got it.
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