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Old 06-23-2003, 08:44 PM   #2071
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WORD!!



BTW- Modellor any word on the new 4mm 705 chassis yet!?!?
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Old 06-23-2003, 08:48 PM   #2072
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Originally posted by nizee
If you like and you able to drive the above setting is fine. Its all in the matter of preference. I just did the above setting like yours, but i don't use any front shock tower and using the optional laydown shock tower for the rear. We have move to a new track location and it was so loose on my car, that i have a hard time trying to figure out the best setting. My last setting was using the front yellow and orange rear for my last race of the day. It did helps with the rear traction but i'm getting too much oversteer at off trottle, which i don't like. And i introduce to much body roll on a small track, which is not good. I think i'm going to change back to yellow spring on the rear and trey it again next week at the same track. Any inputs?
If off throttle is a little twitchy, then there's too much weight transfer to the front. Use less droop in the rear. You may want to thicken the front shock oil to delay the weight transfewr from rear to front.

You mentioned that you already tried +3 toe-in in the rear... Are you using any spacers on the rear uprights? The stock 7 mm aluminum spacers can make the rear end a little loose if you do not have enough traction. Use smaller ones like 4 or 5 mm. Shocks laid down and mounted on the rear bearing blocks also help. Soften the rear sway bar, stiffen the front.

Also, more caster angle (more caster clips in front of the arms), less front negative camber, more rear camber maybe up to -4.

BTW Nizam, how's the Pixy running?
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Old 06-23-2003, 08:48 PM   #2073
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Originally posted by modellor
But lets just say I'll be staying with Serpent next year in 200mm but I will be selling my 705 (fact).
Ummm, 950?
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Old 06-23-2003, 08:49 PM   #2074
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Default Re: Set up`s!

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Originally posted by Slotmachine
I think I have a good set up for you guy`s. First shorten the front wheel base like they do on the 950,next use serpent 35/weight oil in the dampeners,set the fronts at 2 holes&the rears at 3.Mount the front dampeners on the bearing blocks,and the rears on the middle of the shock tower& the bottom of the dampener on the rear arm. 2.5deg. toe in on each rear ,0front toe3% rear camberand 2%front I run no spacer on the rear upright and the one way in the front. For braking try the Mugen teflon brake pads, you have to trim them a bit but it is well worth the time.
I hope this works as well for you as it does for me!
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I'm interested to find out how you shorten the front wheel base...

Running no spacers on the bearing blocks is not recommended according to Serpent. It does not give the correct camber change to the rear wheels needed when running foams. I thought you were in that discussion in the 705 forum at mytsn...

Yes, you can use the Mugen teflon pads... But rather than trimming the pads to fit the 705 steel pads, use the Mugen steel pads instead. The holes fit fine.
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Old 06-23-2003, 08:52 PM   #2075
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Originally posted by modellor
They even offered a complete upgrade kit for existing Impulse runners.
I think they already stopped making the upgrade kit. They found it was too expensive to offer the end users this option and scrapped it off their production. That is the reason why they have not even announce or list it on their products website.
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Old 06-23-2003, 08:57 PM   #2076
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Have anyone heard about faulty fuel tanks? I have heard the new 705/835 fuel tanks are loosing pick-up pressure to the carb by a faulty filter in the fuel tank. Iím having tuning problems with my motor all of sudden, just wounding if I should try a new tank.
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Old 06-23-2003, 09:41 PM   #2077
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
If off throttle is a little twitchy, then there's too much weight transfer to the front. Use less droop in the rear. You may want to thicken the front shock oil to delay the weight transfewr from rear to front.

You mentioned that you already tried +3 toe-in in the rear... Are you using any spacers on the rear uprights? The stock 7 mm aluminum spacers can make the rear end a little loose if you do not have enough traction. Use smaller ones like 4 or 5 mm. Shocks laid down and mounted on the rear bearing blocks also help. Soften the rear sway bar, stiffen the front.

Also, more caster angle (more caster clips in front of the arms), less front negative camber, more rear camber maybe up to -4.

BTW Nizam, how's the Pixy running?
I'm using a 4mm spacer for the rear upright. Soften setting for both front and rear sway bar. 40 front and rear shore rating. Maybe i shld change to Red front and yellow Rear (spring) and see how it goes. I just need to balance getting gd off trottle steering and yet somewhere gd on-power steering for my kind of driving style, on that lose track.

My Stock Pixy ?? One word, AWESOME !!! As fast as another fellow racer here running the Sirio Mod.
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Old 06-23-2003, 09:55 PM   #2078
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Default BRAKE PADS

You still have to trim the pads to clear the bulk head.
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Old 06-23-2003, 09:57 PM   #2079
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Quote:
Originally posted by PUNISHER
Have anyone heard about faulty fuel tanks? I have heard the new 705/835 fuel tanks are loosing pick-up pressure to the carb by a faulty filter in the fuel tank. Iím having tuning problems with my motor all of sudden, just wounding if I should try a new tank.
Punisher, I thought you replied to a post by Accord some time back in another thread about his engine problems that an external fuel filter is not needed... I guess now you know why we use one...

Well, MS claimed that the current fuel filter in the tank does not filter out the small particles like tire dust well enough that it can get into the carb and cause tuning problems... That was what he said for what it's worth. If you look inside the 705 tank, the filter looks kinda plastic like and it looks like they can chip off easily and break. The ones from the Impulse has a bronze filter pickup. Much better. Therefore MS mentioned that it is advised that an external filter is used with the 705 / 835 tank.

The 835 forum at mytsn had a thread that discusses the fuel tank pick up problem. My guess is that the external filter will act as a buffer of some sort to keep equalising the pressure.

There is actually a short article from a guy in UK about the modification he did to his 835 tank. He used a 4.5 mm drill and drilled out the filter in the 835 tank. Took out the bronze filter from the Impulse tank and fitted it in the 835 tank. You can refer it here somewhere in the middle of the page... He has some pictures to illustrate what modifications he did.

http://207.44.212.53/~admin23/Mendip1.htm
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Old 06-23-2003, 10:03 PM   #2080
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Thumbs up shorter wheelbase

Go to the serpent site under 1/8th scale forum and you can obtain the knollage there.
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Old 06-23-2003, 10:05 PM   #2081
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Quote:
Originally posted by nizee
I'm using a 4mm spacer for the rear upright. Soften setting for both front and rear sway bar. 40 front and rear shore rating. Maybe i shld change to Red front and yellow Rear (spring) and see how it goes. I just need to balance getting gd off trottle steering and yet somewhere gd on-power steering for my kind of driving style, on that lose track.
I think when you mount the shocks on the bearing blocks, you need a red spring. Try 37 or even 35 shore front and rear. I bet the car can hook up

Also, I know you're using the rear adjustable sway bars. Are you using the stock blades that came with the rear adjustable sway bar mount or did you already change that to the male blades of the front sway bar?


Quote:
Originally posted by nizee
My Stock Pixy ?? One word, AWESOME !!! As fast as another fellow racer here running the Sirio Mod.
Ummm, the mod on the button head worked then?
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Old 06-23-2003, 10:07 PM   #2082
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Default Re: shorter wheelbase

Quote:
Originally posted by Slotmachine
Go to the serpent site under 1/8th scale forum and you can obtain the knollage there.
By screwing deeper on the Pivot ball to get smaller wheelbase?

I do know it help wif on power steering.
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Old 06-23-2003, 10:13 PM   #2083
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I think when you mount the shocks on the bearing blocks, you need a red spring. Try 37 or even 35 shore front and rear. I bet the car can hook up

Also, I know you're using the rear adjustable sway bars. Are you using the stock blades that came with the rear adjustable sway bar mount or did you already change that to the male blades of the front sway bar?




Ummm, the mod on the button head worked then?
I change to the smaller one for the rear swaybar. 35 shore is too expensive in the long run. Furthermore, i've a whole lot of 40 in my stock. Gotta stick with it and try some other setting to get the balance.

Yes, the minor mod helps and my pixy running good.
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Old 06-23-2003, 11:00 PM   #2084
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Default Re: Re: shorter wheelbase

Quote:
Originally posted by nizee
By screwing deeper on the Pivot ball to get smaller wheelbase?

I do know it help wif on power steering.
No, he was referring to the mod that 950 people are using. The mod involves cutting the uppe and lower front arms so that the front wheels will move back 3 mm towards the rear thus creating a shorter wheelbase. It basically gives the car more steering.
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Old 06-24-2003, 06:44 AM   #2085
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Quote:
Originally posted by PUNISHER
Have anyone heard about faulty fuel tanks? I have heard the new 705/835 fuel tanks are loosing pick-up pressure to the carb by a faulty filter in the fuel tank. Iím having tuning problems with my motor all of sudden, just wounding if I should try a new tank.
Yeah, I have this same problem at the minute. I thought it was the engine but it screams all over the place (just cant get it to idle right). On Sunday I had to keep the revs overly high while waiting on the grid to start .

I an going to blast the filter with a compressor as the microball filters really get clogged up with any dirt in the fuel (which is impossible not to have).

I used to use this type of filter on the carb (special sized one from our local transport company ) and I was having to clean it after every run.
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