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Old 06-22-2003, 04:12 AM   #2041
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Default Engine maintenance

Hi Guys,

The time has come that I have to check the condition of my engine. The manual recommends that I change the conrod every 12-15 hours.

Is there any information available which would help me carry out my maintenace check? i.e. if I have to replace gaskets after opening up the engine, and what tools/parts I require.

I have a NovaMega SX12-RE.

Thanks, Mark.
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Old 06-22-2003, 07:16 AM   #2042
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and one last thing. will the screws eventually loosen up a little bit after they've been screwed in and out a bit? and i will post pics soon.. like today
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Old 06-22-2003, 09:02 AM   #2043
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Default Re: stiff suspension arms....

Quote:
Originally posted by sparksy
I think the way serpent molds their plastics leaves much to be desired... thay throw it out of the mold too quick and the plastic cools and sets wrong (slightly warped).
I don't know but I don't find the parts warping problem. Everything fitted fine for me on the 705. Just that some parts may rather be tighter than usual. I think it's because for some parts, they are still using old molds that were probably slightly inaccurate which can make some parts slightly tigher than usual. But then again, I think sometimes the tightness problem can be a plus... I still feel it's better to have it tight that you can loosen it up then having it sloppy that you cannot do much about. It may appear tight in the beginning but the parts will remain firm and snug fit throughout.

Quote:
Originally posted by sparksy
What can you do to correct it? Well, what worked real nice for me was half building the suspension... ie. arms, bulkheads and hinge pins... then boiling them in a pot for 5 min, to get them nice and hot...then remove pot from the heat, and let cool. The heat puts the plastic back into the just molded temp range.. and allowing them to cool in the water ensures an even distribution of temp loss... and they dont warp.
sparsky, that's a good tip I think boiling them will make them tougher too. But then again, I don't think you need them boiled for that reason.

Quote:
Originally posted by sparksy
I also then run a 3mm reamer down the holes the hinge pin goes in.....
Yes, this is what I do too I used to use the slow process of running in the car and making the parts set in over time but sometimes it takes more time than usual. The hinge pins are 3mm in diameter. You need to accurately ream the holes in the arms where the hinge pins go through. I do it with a dremel and a 3 mm drill bit. You'll find that by doing this, the flashes and the plastics flakes that get reamed out is a lot.

Yes, like I mentioned above, better tight than having the hole loose that you cannot do anything about.
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Old 06-22-2003, 09:08 AM   #2044
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Quote:
Originally posted by supra528
and one last thing. will the screws eventually loosen up a little bit after they've been screwed in and out a bit? and i will post pics soon.. like today
What screws are these? The ones that go into the pastic parts? Yes, over time they will become loose. Becoming loose does not mean that they will strip and the plastic will because useless... Just that threading will become easier.

Still taking an example of my Impulse front bearing block / bulkhead, I'm still using the same front 2 pieces since the day I bought the kit one and a half years ago. The screws locks in easy and lock them perfectly tight.
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Old 06-22-2003, 11:53 AM   #2045
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okokok.. good.. cuz thats wat i want...lol... question... on step 4.2 with the number 5 set that u build... is that pulley supposed to be right up against the brake disk>> and my brake disks are sorta falling off sometimes. should i just push the pins out more??
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Old 06-22-2003, 04:31 PM   #2046
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does the new 705 kit come with centax 2? Do I need to buy any hop-up to dial any low bite race track?
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Old 06-22-2003, 04:55 PM   #2047
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Quote:
Originally posted by OVA
does the new 705 kit come with centax 2? Do I need to buy any hop-up to dial any low bite race track?
Yes, of course it comes with the Centax 2.

No, you do not need to buy anything aside from an assortment of different tires. The 705 is an A-main car out of the box.
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Old 06-22-2003, 05:27 PM   #2048
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Well!! great day of racing!! 1st time out to the track with the 705!! The car have tons and tons of push!! can't get it to steer at 1st....but I manage to change some shock position and spring and it works awsome!! ...but.. I think the front oneway is a bit trickey to drive in a small track with out using the brakes. I think I'm going to put in LOCK DIFF in the front. I like how it works and and easier for me to drive.

Great car!! very fast ....THOSE INTERNAL GEAR CHANGE WORKS WELL!!! Thanks for the help!!

just one bad news!! I use MG servos and the screw came loose and the servosaver felt off the servo...and cost me the race!! Will try again next week!!!
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Old 06-22-2003, 06:53 PM   #2049
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superk what color spring did you get and which shock position hole ?
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Old 06-22-2003, 07:17 PM   #2050
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could someone please answer my question... i'd like to get that step completed 2day.. thnx
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Old 06-22-2003, 08:50 PM   #2051
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Quote:
Originally posted by supra528
okokok.. good.. cuz thats wat i want...lol... question... on step 4.2 with the number 5 set that u build... is that pulley supposed to be right up against the brake disk>> and my brake disks are sorta falling off sometimes. should i just push the pins out more??
When installed correctly, the brake disc should remain in between the brake pads with the 23T brake pulley close beside it. The 2 rolling pins on bottom of the chassis will support the brake pads from the bottom and the brake plate rib will support it from the top. Both will be on suporting the brake pads from the opposite side of the brake cam.

The 23T brake pulley should be installed as close to the bearing block closest to the 2 speed gearbox. When you turn the layshaft, the pins from the aluminum brake pulley adapter (which goes into and turns the brake disc) should not rub on the bearing block. Make sure that the 23T brake pulley is inserted fully into the aluminum brake pulley adapter with the grub screw. It should fit in fully like a glove.
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Old 06-22-2003, 09:02 PM   #2052
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superk, driving a one way can be tricky. Your racing lines need to be good and you need to control the throttle more. You can actually make the car slow down with slight brakes but not dead stop the car. It helps by pulsing and tapping the brakes a few times when you want to slow the car down before entering a hairpin from a fast straight.

Also, I will repeat that braking with one way will be much better of you balance the car and get rid of all tweaks in the chassis. The shocks must be set to equal length and tension. The rear droop settings must also be set equal because during braking, the rear wheels will lift up. When the rear droops are not set equal, one tire will have more contact patch then the other. When that happens, the rear wheels will swap ends and your car rear will spin out when you apply brakes.

Driving a one way on a tight technical track will give you advantage in the infields. The car car swerve and change directions by coasting into the infields better than a car equipped with a front diff or solid axle.
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Old 06-22-2003, 09:37 PM   #2053
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ok... thnx a bunch... i will get working on it soon... i have some stuff to do for now... like work... yay!...lol. .. and getting a new bike... so ill get back to it soon... ill try and get some pics today... or 2morrow
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Old 06-22-2003, 11:07 PM   #2054
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OVA, I use Yellow front and orange rear....I think I use hole #3 front and #2 rear.


InitialD .... yes you are right.. I drove one way b4 with my electric car. So...I perfectly understand how to drive it...the right way with oneway and yheaaa... it actually teach me to drive a bit smoother in and out of the connor.....I actually set the brakes just enough to slow the car down....it's so light that if I keep on the brakes I won't spin out.....any ways...with the way I drive....i'm going to try front salid diff in.....it just a little easier for me to drive.
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Old 06-23-2003, 12:16 AM   #2055
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Quote:
Originally posted by superk
OVA, I use Yellow front and orange rear....I think I use hole #3 front and #2 rear.
Be careful that the longer Veteq springs do not have orange springs. The orange springs come from the Impulse sprign sets. The spring sets for Impulse are slightly shorter than the ones that come with the 705 (Veteq springs). Just to let you know.

If the rear is not soft enough to get traction, look somewhere else. Not enough rear camber perhaps... Or the 7 mm aluminum rear spacer is too much perhaps. Use a 4 or 5 mm spacer and the rear traction will go up. You could also go with softer rear tires or make the rear shocks more horizontal by mounting it at the bearing blocks without the shock tower.

If you still cannot achieve rear traction after doing the above, then something else in the car is binding. Make sure that the arms when not connected, can fall by its own weight when lifted. Make sure the pivot pins are smooth and do not bind the upward and downward arm movement.

Also when building the shocks, sand the piston so that they go into the shock bodies without binding. You can sand them evenly by mounting the shock shaft with the piston assembled on it on a chuck of a drill / dremel. Use a fine grit sandpaper and sand the piston evenly by using the drill / dremel. The piston and the shock shaft should go into the shock body (without oil) smoothly by its own weight.

Quote:
Originally posted by superk
InitialD .... yes you are right.. I drove one way b4 with my electric car. So...I perfectly understand how to drive it...the right way with oneway and yheaaa... it actually teach me to drive a bit smoother in and out of the connor.....I actually set the brakes just enough to slow the car down....it's so light that if I keep on the brakes I won't spin out.....any ways...with the way I drive....i'm going to try front salid diff in.....it just a little easier for me to drive.
You can actually still brake hard even on a one way front diff. Just that the car needs to be tweaked free and balanced.
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