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Old 06-16-2003, 12:44 PM   #1966
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Oh and let me know what type of parts Im going to need and or change on the 705 if I get it.
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Old 06-16-2003, 01:49 PM   #1967
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Ok guys need your help! I've been out of racing for about 2yrs now and im getting back in,looking to get a nitro touring car.I have 2 impacts that I love alot and I have an original impulse spec.with over $1000 in spae parts,car was only raced like 3/4 times.I got to hooked on the impact and set the Impulse aside.We have alot of small tech tracks in my area and just 2 tracks with over a 120 ft straight.I love the serpent and want to get the 705 but I've heard that their is problems with the car and you have to do alot of cutting and all to get some bugs out.I really dont want to get the mugen but I also dont want to get a car I have to cut and all to make the parts all work.So talk to me and give me the straight scoop on the car.99% of the guys around here run the mugen and tc3 and those that have the serpent really dont know how to set the car up to work.
Let me guess that the 99% guys told you that there are too many things wrong with the Serpent 705. The truth of the matter is this car has less bugs to work out then the Mugen or NTC3. As posted on this page of the thread the arms of the suspension can be tight or just good craftsmanship to fit likes a tight glove unlike other cars!! Running the car a few times or filing the hinge-pins holes of the arms with micro filler can correct that… Either will work. The good thing about the new 705 is that most of the suspension components on the older Serpents cars will work on it. That means your arms, up-rights, steering blocks, etc are interchangeable. As for anything need for the 705 to get started you may want to pick up some pinion and spur gears that is suitable for your track. If you have experience building a Serpent car you shouldn’t have any assembly problems!
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Old 06-16-2003, 02:23 PM   #1968
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Yea I know alot about the serpents and I really do like thier cars I still have the 2 impacts and the org impulse spec.Alot of the guys around here (Maryland) dont run the serpent I guess its because its hard to get parts but ive never had a problem getting parts and I really dont think they understand the setup of the car and how it should work.Most of the guys running the mugens are basically run into the corners and point and shoot the car but when it comes to the tight tech tracks (the same as electric run) the mugen just doesnt seem to flow thru like the serpent does.Im sold on the serpent just want to make sure before I buy it>I just got another impact with 2 spare motors one was an sx15evo4 ms 7port new in the box for $175 couldnt believe it when I got it.So im going to run both the 235 and the 200.Just want to make the right decision.
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Old 06-16-2003, 06:45 PM   #1969
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Dave, the decission for you is obvious. It's a no brainer here since you know how to build a Serpent and the best part is that you have lots of Serpent spares which I can bet that even if they are specifically for the Impact, some will fit the 705 as some of the parts are common The 705 actually has some parts that are borrowed from the Impact like the pulleys and all.

From the things you say, I get that you know how to make the Impacts run on the track... So there's actually no worries to get the 705 running. I'm pretty sure you know how to set the car and also how the Centax clutch works. Yes, Punisher is right that there is a lot of bad rep going around about Serpent cars being not good. It's just sour grapes that Serpent cars will go round and round the track without breaking stuff. They just can't help seeing that the 705 cars do not need hop ups and probably do not like get beaten by them.

You do not need anything else to get it running. I believe if you have built and maintain an Impact, then you would have almost all the necessary tools to build the 705.

Yes, like Punisher mentioned, get some spurs (different from Impact as they are now lightened and the same is used on the 835 and 950) and pinions (they are the same as the ones that are used all along).

For a short track and technical track, I would suggest you change the brake pulley from 23T to 22T and diff pulley from 46T to 47T just like the Impact You will also need a 17T rear side pulley to replace the 18T stock rear side pulley. The 47T diff pulley is a part from Impact and you may already have this part. The other pulleys I think are new parts. Feel free to shoot questions and we willl be more willing to help you. Good luck
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Old 06-17-2003, 12:02 PM   #1970
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Default Check this latest news...

While people are trying to put it down, the 705 still remains venomous despite being headless sometimes

http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?pid=8295
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Old 06-17-2003, 12:45 PM   #1971
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Heheheh.....Nice InitialD!!

Yeah, some people forget that this is a World Wide Sport (Hobby)!!


Serpent has more World Championships under its belt then any other company!!
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Old 06-17-2003, 04:23 PM   #1972
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I just wish that was true Punisher. But Serpent actually has only a few World Championship titles under its name. As far as I know Serpent has only 2 1:8th on-road titles and 4 1:10th 235mm titles to date since the first World Championship in 1977.

The company with the most world titles is SG/BMT (Both the same company in reality). After them is the old PB Racing company from the UK (No longer in existence. Now called KP Racing Products making only 1:5th scale aftermarket parts).

Serpent are only about 3rd in the title rankings for Nitro.

But in general, other than when BMT dominated in the 90's (I was lucky to be on that bandwagon and had my share of Championship titles with them), Serpent in general have been the most dominant and normally field the majority of cars in any Nitro car final.

Serpent hold the record for most European Championship titles in Nitro racing.
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Old 06-17-2003, 04:41 PM   #1973
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I'm thinking about experimenting with a few changes to my 705, and would love some feedback on the following:

1) FC steering blocks - from what I understand, they improve off-power steering. Is this true? Are there any other effects?

2) 4mm versus 7mm spacers on the rear wishbones - More aggressive steering (i.e. rear traction)? Short radius or long radius?

3) mounting the shocks on bearing blocks versus the carbon fibre shock towers - More aggressive steering? Short radius or long radius?

Thanks.
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Old 06-17-2003, 08:34 PM   #1974
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Quote:
Originally posted by chachi
1) FC steering blocks - from what I understand, they improve off-power steering. Is this true? Are there any other effects?
The FC steering blocks gives the car a lot of controlled steering especially in the mid corner without making the rear end swing out. Your mid corners can be agressive. I used it on large and small track setups and I like it a lot.

Using this setup makes for the front end of the car much lighter. You also reduce a lot of your unsprung weight which is good for the front shocks. The polar moment is also reduced due to the reduction in weight hence this makes your car changes direction faster. I'll try and weight these as a complete set with the shortened aluminum pivot balls and compare them to the old steering blocks + pivot balls setup and post the results.

Quote:
Originally posted by chachi
2) 4mm versus 7mm spacers on the rear wishbones - More aggressive steering (i.e. rear traction)? Short radius or long radius?
7 mm would make the car switch directions better because this will make the rear end a little loose. The rear end of the car tends to stay flater as the higher the rear roll center, the more difficult the rear end will roll. So if you need you car to respond quickly, then this is it. But if it makes your car twitchy, use a smaller spacer like 4 or 5 mm. Using spacers like 4 mm will make the rear end of your car a little more stable because you introduce a little roll in the rear by lowering the rear roll center.

Quote:
Originally posted by chachi
3) mounting the shocks on bearing blocks versus the carbon fibre shock towers - More aggressive steering? Short radius or long radius?
I would say shorter radius. For the front, it gives better side bite during mid steering corners. In the rear, more traction is obtained. The feedbacks from the team drivers have been positive. If you look at their test setups, you'll notice that they are not using or seldom using the shock towers. Try it out and see if you like it.

You would probably want to use red springs instead because yellow springs at the bearing block mounting position may make the shocks a little soft and lazy. Don't forget that if you want to get red springs, make sure you get the Veteq ones as the rear springs are a little longer (901416 instead of 909417).
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Old 06-18-2003, 06:29 AM   #1975
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I'll try and weight these as a complete set with the shortened aluminum pivot balls and compare them to the old steering blocks + pivot balls setup and post the results.
I went home and measured the weight of the stock and FC steering blocks together with their bearings and the pivot balls. The stock ones were about 25 grams. The FC steering block with the smaller bearings and shortened aluminum pivot balls were about half the weight of the stock
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Old 06-18-2003, 06:30 AM   #1976
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Another angle of the FC steering blocks.
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Old 06-18-2003, 06:32 AM   #1977
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Did you and your freind run the

Novamaxx .12 motor yet?

pls. give us some feedback

thanks
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Old 06-18-2003, 07:08 AM   #1978
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Quote:
Originally posted by it
Did you and your freind run the

Novamaxx .12 motor yet?

pls. give us some feedback

thanks
From the initial impressions, the engine is a keeper

The power could be felt even before the engine was broken in fully at rich settings. Before we could put it on the track, it rained last Sunday Hopefully, we have time to run the puppy this weekend. I'll report my findings then. Stay tuned
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Old 06-18-2003, 07:14 AM   #1979
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
From the initial impressions, the engine is a keeper

The power could be felt even before the engine was broken in fully at rich settings. Before we could put it on the track, it rained last Sunday Hopefully, we have time to run the puppy this weekend. I'll report my findings then. Stay tuned
Yes, I forgot to mention... I set the clutch spring to 9.5 mm and the 1st gear still kicks in as if it was set soft... I was pretty impressed Well, this is even with the Mugen super hard silver Centax spring installed as the kit didn't come with the original spring.
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Old 06-18-2003, 07:15 AM   #1980
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in advance.


I might get one too!! but it will be a .21
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