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Old 06-14-2003, 10:21 PM   #1951
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Does anyone know an email address for the Serpent North America?
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Old 06-14-2003, 10:42 PM   #1952
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here's their crappy website
http://www.serpent-usa.com/

and you can e-mail them here
[email protected]

Ralph Burch
[email protected]

Art Carbonell
[email protected]

Mike Myers
[email protected]
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Old 06-14-2003, 11:28 PM   #1953
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Thanks for the fast post on Serpent USA
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Old 06-15-2003, 08:56 AM   #1954
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Default Re: Re: Re: Head Shims?

Quote:
Originally posted by JBrake
Okay, there is only the 0.3mm shim in the motor right now so I should be good to go. Thanks for all the help.
I would leave it that way and try it. You should be able to run good with the above clearance. Do remember rule of thumb, the more nitro u run the more clerance u need, the less nitro u run the less clrearance u need. Also Temp and Humidity take effect like InitialD had mention.

Also Dennis once quote regarding the head clerance :-

0.014" on 16% nitro
0.018" on 30% nitro
0.021" on 40% nitro

If you need to alter your head clerance using 20% nitro, your head clerance should be in between 0.014" ~ 0.018".

Hope that helps.
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Old 06-15-2003, 09:45 AM   #1955
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guys, any recomended websites that i can download some video clips specially for Serpent cars?

thanks.....
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Old 06-15-2003, 08:31 PM   #1956
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Quote:
Originally posted by glennboi
guys, any recomended websites that i can download some video clips specially for Serpent cars?

thanks.....
I've not come across many. The one that impresses me the most is the one taken from the World meet in Ohio last year. It can be found on the video download section of the link below. Title of the clip is "3 Laps on Cincinnati track". I think it was shot by Pieter Bervoets while Michael Salven was driving the 705. His driving was impeccably smooth... Where you thought that he should go slower in the mid sections of the track, he goes faster That's what I like about it.

http://www.mytsn.com/events/videos.asp?eid=611
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Old 06-15-2003, 09:19 PM   #1957
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Default Last Week's Outing with 705 / Impulse

Last Saturday, I had a short test run using a 5 mm tire split (61 mm front, 66 mm rear) while using 47T rear diff, 22T brake pulley and 18T read side pulley (instead of 17T rear side pulley) to create the same front and rear tire rollout. It is actually suppose to be somewhere like 4.5 mm tire split but I purposely choose to have a slight underdrive with a 5 mm split so that halfway in the middle, you get somewhere between 4.5 mm when the rear tires wear out.

One word. Fantastic On a Lola body, straight line speed was fast and stable. Entering hairpins, it has lots of steering. The wonderful part was that I felt that I could apply more brakes and stop better with a one way front to a certain point that if I applied too much brakes, the car would just slide straight but still remain controllable. Not like you would have expected that the rear end would swing out to the front It drove just like a 1/8th scale car

On Sunday, it rained Spend most of my time helping to break in the Fantini engine. Fantastic engine. Even at a rich 5.5 turns at the main needle setting, it has gobs of power
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Old 06-15-2003, 10:31 PM   #1958
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After I put the car together..w/out the shock... it seem like all of the suspensions are not moveing up and down freely. It like to stay where I put it....its not tight...just good fit...good enough..to have the suspension stay. But..smooth enough to move it. Is there anything I shold do to that? I just don't like it when my suspension will not move freely. Please help.. (this is a brand new 705)
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Old 06-15-2003, 10:42 PM   #1959
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Question how can I get steering on 705, right now I feel I have to slow down so much to get around a turn. I run the only 705 in my club the rest are pretty much NTC3, and TC3 have their cars setup pretty good turning wise with holding a fair bit of speed.

Running 705 with stock yellow springs, not running shock towers at all, 2 holes in all 4 pistons and 30W oil, running Yok 138H upfront and 138F in back, ball diff and solid upfront. Maybe I should drop the solid front for a diff. or would the one way work good.
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Old 06-15-2003, 11:04 PM   #1960
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Try softer spring in the front... Or stiffer in the rear...or u can move the front shock to the inside of the shock tower. ...may be a softer tire in the front.

You just need a bit more weight tranfer to the front .. to get more steer... I think...

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Old 06-15-2003, 11:29 PM   #1961
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Quote:
Originally posted by corwin
Question how can I get steering on 705, right now I feel I have to slow down so much to get around a turn. I run the only 705 in my club the rest are pretty much NTC3, and TC3 have their cars setup pretty good turning wise with holding a fair bit of speed.

Running 705 with stock yellow springs, not running shock towers at all, 2 holes in all 4 pistons and 30W oil, running Yok 138H upfront and 138F in back, ball diff and solid upfront. Maybe I should drop the solid front for a diff. or would the one way work good.
Yes, superk is correct. You can introduce more weight transfer to the front by introducing more rear uptravel (more rear droop i.e. +7 to +5). Clicking up to front shocks to more holes may help also to increase off power steering.

Or perhaps you are setting your rear diff a little hard. Try to make it loose and you will find that off throttle, it'll be easier to turn in.

Else like what you mentioned, go for the one way front especially if you have a nice flowing track
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Old 06-15-2003, 11:35 PM   #1962
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Quote:
Originally posted by superk
After I put the car together..w/out the shock... it seem like all of the suspensions are not moveing up and down freely. It like to stay where I put it....its not tight...just good fit...good enough..to have the suspension stay. But..smooth enough to move it. Is there anything I shold do to that? I just don't like it when my suspension will not move freely. Please help.. (this is a brand new 705)
superk, this is what I do. When I install the shock pistons onto the shock shaft, I use a dremel and lock the shock shaft onto the chuck and spin it onto a find grit sandpaper. This helps smoothen out the piston shocks that will rub against the shock cyclinder bodies.

Look here and there's actually a tip on how to build good shocks When done correctly, the piston with the shock shaft assembly should drop into the piston cyclinder (without shock oil) and slide down easily by it's own weight under gravity.
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Old 06-16-2003, 12:15 AM   #1963
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Yha..that...too...but...what I was talking about is...the car actual suspension it self. Where the pin go though the upper and lower both front and rear suspensions. It seem stiff a bit. Move easily...but a bit stiff.
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Old 06-16-2003, 12:23 AM   #1964
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Quote:
Originally posted by superk
Yha..that...too...but...what I was talking about is...the car actual suspension it self. Where the pin go though the upper and lower both front and rear suspensions. It seem stiff a bit. Move easily...but a bit stiff.
The pivot pins that go into and support the arms? Yes, that can be a little stiff to move when new. You need to drive the car for a few tanks before everything loosen's up.
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Old 06-16-2003, 12:43 PM   #1965
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Ok guys need your help! I've been out of racing for about 2yrs now and im getting back in,looking to get a nitro touring car.I have 2 impacts that I love alot and I have an original impulse spec.with over $1000 in spae parts,car was only raced like 3/4 times.I got to hooked on the impact and set the Impulse aside.We have alot of small tech tracks in my area and just 2 tracks with over a 120 ft straight.I love the serpent and want to get the 705 but I've heard that their is problems with the car and you have to do alot of cutting and all to get some bugs out.I really dont want to get the mugen but I also dont want to get a car I have to cut and all to make the parts all work.So talk to me and give me the straight scoop on the car.99% of the guys around here run the mugen and tc3 and those that have the serpent really dont know how to set the car up to work.


Thanks,
Dave
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