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Old 06-12-2003, 11:20 AM   #1936
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Thanks for the direction.
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Old 06-12-2003, 02:27 PM   #1937
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Quote:
Originally posted by Proficar403
Is anyone using the novak synthesized receiver? Are there any tricks to getting easy access to the adjustment screws while still keeping it protected?
Hi Arun

This is Neil, I raced over at Hurricane for the month of March 2002. How are things over there?
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Old 06-12-2003, 05:22 PM   #1938
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Hey Neil...It is interesting running into you like this. Things are going OK over at Hurricane Motorsports. I recently got the track record in electric touring with my tc3.
Overall, however, touring has seemed to drop off. Everyone, it seems, is running oval cars. It is very dissapointing. I will be moving to Athens, GA soon to go to college, and I am confident I will find some good gas touring racers there, so that should be fun.

Thinking about getting a 705? I would highly recommend it. I have had an impulse for a while, and it is basically the same car. I will be getting a 705 pretty soon. The car is, overall, very durable. Broken parts are usually the steering blocks or the front and side belt, if anything. But that is only if you hit stuff.
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Old 06-12-2003, 09:52 PM   #1939
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Quote:
Originally posted by Proficar403
Hey Neil...It is interesting running into you like this. Things are going OK over at Hurricane Motorsports. I recently got the track record in electric touring with my tc3.
Overall, however, touring has seemed to drop off. Everyone, it seems, is running oval cars. It is very dissapointing. I will be moving to Athens, GA soon to go to college, and I am confident I will find some good gas touring racers there, so that should be fun.

Thinking about getting a 705? I would highly recommend it. I have had an impulse for a while, and it is basically the same car. I will be getting a 705 pretty soon. The car is, overall, very durable. Broken parts are usually the steering blocks or the front and side belt, if anything. But that is only if you hit stuff.
Congrats on college. I already have a 705, gave up on the NTC3. I need to race it more often, I've been mainly racing electric. Too bad about hurricane, if I make it out there again, I'll try and stop by. I hear Athens has a couple of fine tracks nearby. Keep rc car racing a hobby as you go through college, grades are more important. Talk to you soon. Laterz.

BTW, picked up a few sponsors along the way!
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Old 06-13-2003, 01:45 PM   #1940
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Head Shims?

Couple questions for you guys. I just bought a used JP that has about a gallon of 30% through it. I personally have always run 20%. Since this motor was run with 30% the head has been shim'd. I know I need to remove some or all of these shims to run the lower nitro %, but I don't know how many or what kind of a clearance I am looking for between the top of the piston and button head? Any insight would be most appreciated.

Thanks, J Longbrake
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Old 06-13-2003, 03:07 PM   #1941
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Default Re: Head Shims?

Quote:
Originally posted by JBrake
Couple questions for you guys. I just bought a used JP that has about a gallon of 30% through it. I personally have always run 20%. Since this motor was run with 30% the head has been shim'd. I know I need to remove some or all of these shims to run the lower nitro %, but I don't know how many or what kind of a clearance I am looking for between the top of the piston and button head? Any insight would be most appreciated.

Thanks, J Longbrake
Could you tell us what shims are currently on the button head? There should be an aluminum shim (0.3 mm). Be sure to check under this aluminum shim if there are any other copper shims (0.1 mm each). These copper shims are thin and they may be stuck together as one piece and very difficult to separate them.

If I was running 20% nitro, I would leave the stock aluminum shim (0.3 mm). But this depends on the ambient temperature around you. If hot and humid, I would add 0.1 mm (bronze) shim to the stock (total 0.4 mm).

As to the type of clearance that is needed, Motorman gave some pointers recently at this thread
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Old 06-13-2003, 03:43 PM   #1942
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Okay guys, well apparently the problem was infact a messed up front bearing. I bought a new front bearing, and I talked to Serpent USA and they told me I have to heat the engine up in a toaster over or something and then pop it out, but in the process the main bearing would be damaged and I would have to replace that .

Also, I am having an impossible time trying to get the Flywheel off, so does anyone have any tips on getting it off?

How can I easily change out the front bearing without damaging anything?

Last edited by Accord; 06-13-2003 at 03:57 PM.
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Old 06-13-2003, 04:03 PM   #1943
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Default Engine Tool

This is what I use, It will take you about 10 seconds and a couple of pulls.

Very easy to use,

It is made by ofna,

Just type ofna engine tool or OFNA beaing tool in a search engine and you will find one.
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File Type: jpg tool-misc-10797.jpg (8.4 KB, 63 views)
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Old 06-13-2003, 04:04 PM   #1944
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Anything I could do on my own without having to buy any special tools? The reason is I have to have this motor ready to race tomorrow .
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Old 06-13-2003, 04:10 PM   #1945
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Just give the back of the flywheel a few gentle taps with a set of pliers and it will pop off.
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Old 06-13-2003, 04:11 PM   #1946
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YES, JABRONI
Beat me to the OFNA bearing puller #10797.


Nice tool to have
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Old 06-13-2003, 04:15 PM   #1947
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Quote:
Originally posted by Accord
Anything I could do on my own without having to buy any special tools? The reason is I have to have this motor ready to race tomorrow .
You can try the oven method.

A friend pull his motor bearings with a screwdriver plastic handle and a hammer! Just give it some wacks!!
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Old 06-13-2003, 04:25 PM   #1948
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I just got the flywheel off with a flathead screw driver, so now i've got to remove the piston. I tried sliding the piston rod off the crank, but it is held on by mabye .3mm and I can't force it off anymore. Any other tips for getting pistons off?

Last edited by Accord; 06-13-2003 at 05:01 PM.
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Old 06-13-2003, 04:59 PM   #1949
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used a heat gun and towel
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Old 06-13-2003, 07:05 PM   #1950
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Default Re: Re: Head Shims?

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
If I was running 20% nitro, I would leave the stock aluminum shim (0.3 mm). But this depends on the ambient temperature around you. If hot and humid, I would add 0.1 mm (bronze) shim to the stock (total 0.4 mm).
Okay, there is only the 0.3mm shim in the motor right now so I should be good to go. Thanks for all the help.
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