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Old 06-10-2003, 01:35 AM   #1891
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Quote:
Originally posted by superk
Ok...Got it all clean up!! and I have many bairings that's bad!! Felt like it's all sand and gravel inside!can't hardly spin!! Yikes!!
If you're interested in salvaging them back again, put the bearings in a bottle filled with alchohol or Nitro cleaner / degreaser or even petrol and shake them well. Do a few times and soak it for a day. Take them out one by one and dry them on clean paper towels. Spin them to see if they are smooth. If not, clean them again. If they cannot be cleaned, put them aside. You can use them for spacers Use a suitable bearing lube to lube them once they are grit free.

RUbber sealed bearings like the ones provided in the 705 kit are easier to clean. Pop off the rubber seal and you have access to the internals.

Quote:
Originally posted by superk
Good things ..I have a new set with blue rubber seal...so...I decided to change them all!! Also...at the same time...I'm replaceing the chassis! After I took it a part ...I place my old chassis on the flat glass table and it's not flat on the table. I can see a bit bent up in the front of the chassis. Any how...luckly I have a new upgrade 4MM chassis that I bought a while ago.
If the chassis is bent on the front just before the 1st screw goes into the front bulkheads, it will not affect the chassis tweak settings.

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Originally posted by superk
By the way...any one have an extra SHOCK PISTON?? I broke my during the shock setup. I need one.
You should get the complete tree branch set as a spare. It includes all the parts that make up the shock.
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Old 06-10-2003, 01:36 AM   #1892
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Originally posted by n1technik
ok.. this might be a stuipd question but which way does your starter box wheel turns?
because the engine will start either way.
so does your wheel turn towards the front of the car or back?

should turn towards the front right?
thanks
The rubber wheel on the starter box should turn towards the front.

If you look facing the Centax clutch, the pinions should be turning counterclockwise. The spurs should be turning clockwise.
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Old 06-10-2003, 05:30 AM   #1893
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Originally posted by Devin
My 705's built and completed...just had a few comments.

Last is that why did they have to put the front shock tower right over the front droop screws? I can't get my driver in there to adjust without fear of stripping out the set screw.
Something you might also try is dremeling the thickness of the shock tower (2.5mm?) off of the front bulkheads were the tower mounts to it. This way you keep the same geometry as mounting directly to the bulkhead without the problems of getting to the droop screws. I have been running my shock tower like this on my Pro since last summer and have had no problems.
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Old 06-10-2003, 05:58 AM   #1894
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Thanks for all the comments guys. How do you find the handling is different if you get rid of the front shock tower and mount the shocks to the front bulkhead? Really once you get the droop set once, you really don't have to mess with it again for the most part. The rear you play with more than the front, atleast what I have seen.

I drilled and tapped the front left bulkhead for a setscrew to attach the pipe hanger and also cut 1/4 off of the exhaust maniford and now have no problem with pipe clearance. I was reading radio controled nitro review about the 705 and they said to put 1/8" fuel line in the dif cups to prevent dog bones from popping, well I did that and it was binding up the car terribly...don't do this. I took the fuel tubing out. Serpent engineered that for a pretty good reason, I suspect there is no reason to modify it unless told by them.
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Old 06-10-2003, 07:14 AM   #1895
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Quote:
Originally posted by Devin
How do you find the handling is different if you get rid of the front shock tower and mount the shocks to the front bulkhead?
Personally, if that is the only change that I make on my car, it will want to hook on exit.

Quote:
Originally posted by Devin
Really once you get the droop set once, you really don't have to mess with it again for the most part. The rear you play with more than the front, atleast what I have seen.
Do you run rubber tires? We only run foams around here, so I am always adjusting droop and ride height with tire wear.
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Old 06-10-2003, 08:23 AM   #1896
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Thanks InitialD.... I did sit the bairings in the cup with denature alchohol over night. I'm sure...it will be ok...I'm just going to save it for spair. Just incase....since new bairings work much better I just going to chang it any ways.

One more things...i check all the drive train in my Impulse...and the 705 ...and it seem like both have the same drive ratio...but the difference is my Sper and pinion. My Impulse is quite quick on the take off already..but...I was thinking of changing the internal pully like you told me for the 705 to my Impulse. Will this make the car take off quicker?

Thanks for the raito and tire roll out info. I was always..comfuse with those number.

Can't wait to get my 705 going!! What kind of motor do u guys put in it?? I have an RBX12 3 port. But..was thinking about Trinity Serio.12 Turbo.
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Old 06-10-2003, 09:26 AM   #1897
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Quote:
Originally posted by JBrake
Do you run rubber tires? We only run foams around here, so I am always adjusting droop and ride height with tire wear.
No, foam only (unless really wet...than I probably won't race) I would be doing the same thing. I'll have to test it out the handling with different setups...time will tell, thanks.
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Old 06-10-2003, 09:41 AM   #1898
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Devin, no prob.

A little humor for you guys: http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/foru...hreadid=129424

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Old 06-10-2003, 12:11 PM   #1899
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Anyone having issues with the earlier release version of the 705 with the chassis that does not have the extra material beside the front screws.
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Old 06-10-2003, 01:44 PM   #1900
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Went to the LHS today and place the order on those PULLIES!!! and REAR ADJUST ABLE SWAY BAR!! and wow!! $100+tax!!! those parts are so expensive!!!???

Any one know any other online site to get a really good deal on 705 parts?????
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Old 06-10-2003, 01:46 PM   #1901
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Quote:
Originally posted by superk
Went to the LHS today and place the order on those PULLIES!!! and REAR ADJUST ABLE SWAY BAR!! and wow!! $100+tax!!! those parts are so expensive!!!???

Any one know any other online site to get a really good deal on 705 parts?????
www.ashfordhobby.com has the cheapest Serpent parts around, I learned this the hard way.
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Old 06-10-2003, 02:05 PM   #1902
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
The F1 cars are super cool But the thing is to get one, it cost a bomb I think where you save compared to 1/10 scale (or 1/8th scale for that matter) is in the cost of fuel, tires and less breakage of parts on the 1/5th scale. But who's gonna play with us?
Acctually we race bi weekly races here in Minnesota and so far this season, we are using a lot less money in spareparts. The car is about 1000 USD to buy, yes, but let's be honest, how much money do you have invested in the snake before it is up to speed, not far from the 1000 USD.... spare parts are about the same: Front steering knuckles: about 10 USD for a pair, set of bulkheads for one end: about 20 USD etc. etc. a new G230 engine runs about 240 USD. tires are more money, but after 3 races plus 12-15 hours of practice I still run my rear tires that came with the kit, the frons were jusr replaced, not bad.... Currently we have 6 F1:s in one heat, but it seems a lot of people are showing real interest in this class, so I am sure it will build even further.
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Old 06-10-2003, 04:47 PM   #1903
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I am having so many problems with my SX12 engine, I am getting EXTREMELY frustrated, I feel like throwing the damn engine through a window!

I'm breaking in the engine, i'm on my 6th tank. It will just randomly start when I try mabye one out of ten times, the car will run beautifully for about 3 minutes, then the engine will begin to idle extremely high even with the carb slide completely closed, mind you the engine does not shut off, it just idles extremely high regardless of my idle and low end needle settings. Of course I shut the engine off and check everything, and when I go to restart it the the engine just won't start nomatter what I do, however it eventually starts after like 30 minutes of trying everything, and I didn't even do anything special; it's like the damn engine has a mind of it's own and is out to get me! The engine will not start, I have tried numerous glowplugs and they are all fine, I have tried using different glow igniters, I have tried the pressure lock thing where you cover the exhaust pipe for 2 seconds and dry-start it like it says in the manual, I have tried every possible setting on the needles, and to no avail, THE ENGINE WILL NOT START! AHHHHHHHHHHHHH! This time the engine won't start at all, also the 12v powersource for my powerstart box is fine. I am running 30% nitro fuel, this is what my LHS reccomended.

This problem only started happening on the 5th tank or so throughout the break-in, before that it started up instantly and I never had any problem at all.

Please give me advice, I spent 2 hours trying to get this engine to work!



(I also posted this in a new thread so more people than just Serpent owners see this: http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...threadid=19625 )
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Old 06-10-2003, 05:56 PM   #1904
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check how do you start the motor you might starting it the other way cause it happen to me a few years ago
make sure that youre starter box turn clock wise and check for air leaks
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Old 06-10-2003, 06:13 PM   #1905
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Quote:
Originally posted by Accord
I am having so many problems with my SX12 engine, I am getting EXTREMELY frustrated, I feel like throwing the damn engine through a window!

I'm breaking in the engine, i'm on my 6th tank. It will just randomly start when I try mabye one out of ten times, the car will run beautifully for about 3 minutes, then the engine will begin to idle extremely high even with the carb slide completely closed, mind you the engine does not shut off, it just idles extremely high regardless of my idle and low end needle settings. Of course I shut the engine off and check everything, and when I go to restart it the the engine just won't start nomatter what I do, however it eventually starts after like 30 minutes of trying everything, and I didn't even do anything special; it's like the damn engine has a mind of it's own and is out to get me! The engine will not start, I have tried numerous glowplugs and they are all fine, I have tried using different glow igniters, I have tried the pressure lock thing where you cover the exhaust pipe for 2 seconds and dry-start it like it says in the manual, I have tried every possible setting on the needles, and to no avail, THE ENGINE WILL NOT START! AHHHHHHHHHHHHH! This time the engine won't start at all, also the 12v powersource for my powerstart box is fine. I am running 30% nitro fuel, this is what my LHS reccomended.

This problem only started happening on the 5th tank or so throughout the break-in, before that it started up instantly and I never had any problem at all.

Please give me advice, I spent 2 hours trying to get this engine to work!



(I also posted this in a new thread so more people than just Serpent owners see this: http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...threadid=19625 )
That sound like u are running too lean, if your engine quit and hard to start it again. Also that idle goes on high at idle, sound like you have an air leak somewhere or your idle needle set open too much.

Why don't u do this first. Open up your carb and re-install again. This time push hard the carb down with your thumb (make sure there is an o-ring in there), while you tighten the nut that lock the carb. Better still if you have hi-temp silicon sealer, use it. That possibly eliminate that air-leak or possible problem of air leak. If the problem still happen, then lower the idle needle opening.

Also, try to open your lower needle maybe about 1/2 a turn and your main needle 1/2 a turn too andd see how it goes.....do that until it sound better.
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