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Old 06-09-2003, 07:39 PM   #1876
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Hey johan,

Sweet setup now where does all the money come for a place like that, so what kind of members fee and race fees.
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Old 06-09-2003, 08:43 PM   #1877
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Quote:
Originally posted by Devin
My left front bulkhead was not drilled for a set-screw to secure the pipe hanger. Did anyone else notice this or did the C&C machine not make that drill. I also noticed that I had to finish a lot of holes as they were not drilled completely, setscrews for arm pins for the most part.
I basically didn't use them from the get go on the 705. I dremmeled the plastic part off so that I have the space to put an aluminum exhaust holder. You can get them 3rd party from Team Magic etc. It's basically a cyclinder aluminum piece that has a grub screw to hold the pipe via the exhaust wire. This mounts the exhaust pipe very securely. I find that the plastic piece beside the front left bulkhead to hold the exhaust wire is weak and if it breaks, you need to replace the whole front left bulkhead. This is what I've learnt from driving my Impulse.

Quote:
Originally posted by Devin
The pipe that came with the basic NovaMega Sx12 power package is huge! I found out that it actually hits the front left foam tire when turned all the way to the left (stock tire, not trued to 62mm) I'll have to modify the coil exhaust hanger so that is not an issue or make my own hanger after I drill tap for a setscrew
Yes, the pipe is long. I think you need to cut off some of the length from the manifold. The 2 sections (pipe and manifold) should not touch each other when you join them with the silicone coupler. The pipe should be around 96 to 100 mm. You can actually test which length gives you the most power and elongate or shorten the pipe via the silicone coupler. Another tip, use the clear silicone coupler that is used on the NTC3 rear exhaust engines. They are very good and they shrink and grip the pipe and manifold together when heated up.

Quote:
Originally posted by Devin
3rd is that I read on Mytsn that people were having issues with bearing failure on the rear side pull (2speed midshaft) because the pully housing was rubbing on the bearing. It was suggest that a washer to be place between to correct the problem. I did this and then had issues with the 2 speed side. The pin did not line up so I had to take about 1.5mm off of the alum spacer to get everything to line up. Cause of this, the rear bumps of the 1st gear tapped on the bulkhead so I had to file these down a bit too. Everything went together fine after that, think there is any issues? I am going to pick up those parts that I modified just in case things do not work correctly that I can go back to assembly and figure out how to make things work.
I had this problem since day one. When the 2 speed shaft assembly is tight after you put the shim, just use a plastic ballet / hammer and tap on the shaft so that everything sits in nicely. Sometimes when new, the bearings in the rear bulkhead supporting the 2 speed layshaft does not go in properly. In any case, I did not have to take off or grind anything to get them to fit nicely. Like modellor mentioned, there is an article on mytsn by Julius Kolff that tells you what to do to this 18T/17T rear side pulley. It will fit better if you shave the flange (nearest to the bulkhead) off this pulley and put a 7 mm C clip over the aluminum pulley adapter to secure the 18T/17T plastic pulley.

What I personally did was I shaved off the pulley flange, put a 7 mm C clip and replaced the broken rubber sealed pulley to a metal sealed one. I did not put any shims there. So far no problems.

Quote:
Originally posted by Devin
Last is that why did they have to put the front shock tower right over the front droop screws? I can't get my driver in there to adjust without fear of stripping out the set screw.
Yup, originally as with the Impulse PRO / Streetspec, there was no front shock tower spacer introduced. This made the front droop screws accessible. The spacer (to make the geometry of the front shocks more straight and direct acting) made the shock tower assembly further in front directly over the holes.

You can do two things... Make the hole of the front droop screws on top of the upper bumper plate support to be bid enough so that you could use a ball tip type of allen to access it. Secondly, don't use the front shock tower at all and mount the shocks on the front bearing blocks Your choice.
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Old 06-09-2003, 09:06 PM   #1878
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Quote:
Originally posted by superk
Hmm....it seem like calculateing all the drive/gear ratio are very difficult and comfusing....but...I'll try the 3 internal pullies change also...2speed spergear and pinion.
It's pretty easy. For the internal drive ratio of the rear using the stock 23T brake pulley and the 46T diff pulley;

Rear Internal Drive Ratio = 46/23 = 2

For the internal drive ratio of the front using the stock 18T rear side pulley, 24T front side pulley, 16T front side mid pulley and 24T front diff / one way pulley;

Front Internal Drive Ratio = 24/16 x 24/18 = 2

It is important to get the front and rear internal drive ratios the same to get a correct front and rear tire rollout. If they are not the same, you need to play around with different tire diameters (split) to correct the front and rear tire rollout.

If you're using 50T/45T spurs and 15T/18T pinions;

1st Gear Final front drive ratio = Front Internal Drive Ratio x 1st Gear Spur / 1st Gear Pinion = 2 x 50/15 = 6.67

2nd Gear Final front drive ratio = Front Internal Drive Ratio x 2nd Gear Spur / 2nd Gear Pinion = 2 x 45/18 = 5

1st Gear Final front drive ratio = Front Internal Drive Ratio x 1st Gear Spur / 1st Gear Pinion = 2 x 50/15 = 6.67

2nd Gear Final front drive ratio = Front Internal Drive Ratio x 2nd Gear Spur / 2nd Gear Pinion = 2 x 45/18 = 5

Since the front and rear internal drive ratios are the same, the final drive ratios should be the same respectively.

If you're using the optional pulleys for higher internal drive ratio (22T brake pulley, 47T diff pulley and 17T rear side pulley);

Rear Internal Drive Ratio = 47/22 = 2.136

For the internal drive ratio of the front using the optional 17T rear side pulley and the rest remaining the same pulleys (24T front side pulley, 16T front side mid pulley and 24T front diff / one way pulley);

Front Internal Drive Ratio = 24/16 x 24/17 = 2.118

Very slight difference in the front and rear internal drive ratio but that does not matter.

Just input and replace these internal drive ratios into the formulas above and you will get the final drive ratios of the 705

Quote:
Originally posted by superk
Any how..I just don't have the luck yesterday! During the qualify the car run great!! I miss TQ by 4 sec!! (My contact start to boter my eyes) The wheel nut that I use is a 7mm lock nuts from PGM. I might have to try loctite it. After the race .. I try to roll the car..and it seem like drive train is kind a stiff..feel like the belt is very tight....dont know why.
GPM nuts? Throw them away... Get the Serpent ones. The drive train may be due to some binding in the brakes or one of the bearings is failing.

Quote:
Originally posted by superk
But..as of now...it's all apart and ready to be clean!! bairings and all!! This will be my back up car...and the 705 will be the winner this time
Yeah, just check all the bearings since you're tearing down all the stuff. I think some may be stuck.
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Old 06-09-2003, 09:43 PM   #1879
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Smile Tracks

Corwin. I haven't seen the accounts but I guess the club gets (or got) some support from the "local government". Members fee for a year (including unlimited use of the track) is about 40$. I believe track fee (for non-members) and race fees are low (below 15$), but I'm not sure.

Ive heard that they are planning to build an indoor facility (where the outdoor track is) so that you can drive gas cars indoors during the winter. But thats sound very expensive and far-fetched imo. Besides, I like being outdoors
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Old 06-09-2003, 10:54 PM   #1880
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Arrow serpent starter box pinion

Hey does anyone know the part # for the pinion thats located on the two elec motors that power the donut on the serpent starter box? One of my pinions on my box got melted and now does not grip the belt...making my starter box and expensive paper weight.
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Old 06-09-2003, 11:06 PM   #1881
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Quote:
Hey does anyone know the part # for the pinion thats located on the two elec motors
#1407-N Pullies and Adapters for Starter Box (2 Pieces)
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Old 06-09-2003, 11:16 PM   #1882
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Hi InitialD,


As you have written previously

Tire Rollout Front (1st Gear) = (pi) x 62 / 6.67 = 29.2 mm per engine revolution

How or where do you get this (pi)

Thanks alot...
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Old 06-09-2003, 11:30 PM   #1883
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Quote:
Originally posted by apmk
Hi InitialD,


As you have written previously

Tire Rollout Front (1st Gear) = (pi) x 62 / 6.67 = 29.2 mm per engine revolution

How or where do you get this (pi)

Thanks alot...
Pi is equal to 3.14, so the equation would be:

Tire Rollout Front (1st Gear) = (3.14) x 62 / 6.67 = 29.2 mm per engine revolution
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Old 06-09-2003, 11:32 PM   #1884
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Quote:
Originally posted by apmk
Tire Rollout Front (1st Gear) = (pi) x 62 / 6.67 = 29.2 mm per engine revolution

How or where do you get this (pi)
The (pi) comes from calculating the tire circumference [2*(pi)*radius = (pi)*diameter].
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Old 06-10-2003, 12:30 AM   #1885
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Thanks to both of you InitialD & Accord....
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Old 06-10-2003, 12:36 AM   #1886
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
The (pi) comes from calculating the tire circumference [2*(pi)*radius = (pi)*diameter].
i believe pi is the ratio between the circumference of a circle and its diameter. it is a constant (3.14).
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Old 06-10-2003, 12:46 AM   #1887
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Quote:
Originally posted by Data
i believe pi is the ratio between the circumference of a circle and its diameter. it is a constant (3.14).
Yes, that is correct. Just a sidetrack... Contrary to what many people would have believed, the ratio is 3.14 which is just an approximation. The real value has an infinite number of decimal places. It's starts something like this;

3.14159265358979 ...
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Old 06-10-2003, 12:56 AM   #1888
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Ok...Got it all clean up!! and I have many bairings that's bad!! Felt like it's all sand and gravel inside!can't hardly spin!! Yikes!!

Good things ..I have a new set with blue rubber seal...so...I decided to change them all!! Also...at the same time...I'm replaceing the chassis! After I took it a part ...I place my old chassis on the flat glass table and it's not flat on the table. I can see a bit bent up in the front of the chassis. Any how...luckly I have a new upgrade 4MM chassis that I bought a while ago.

Well...the car start to come together..and I felt very good about it!! It seem like it's going to be much better car than befor!!

PS. Just place an order on those internal pullies on my new 705 today. I hope to get it all here by the weekend. I like to test it out.

By the way...any one have an extra SHOCK PISTON?? I broke my during the shock setup. I need one.
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Old 06-10-2003, 01:02 AM   #1889
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Yes, that is correct. Just a sidetrack... Contrary to what many people would have believed, the ratio is 3.14 which is just an approximation. The real value has an infinite number of decimal places. It's starts something like this;

3.14159265358979 ...
one of the well known irrational numbers
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Old 06-10-2003, 01:20 AM   #1890
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ok.. this might be a stuipd question but which way does your starter box wheel turns?
because the engine will start either way.
so does your wheel turn towards the front of the car or back?

should turn towards the front right?
thanks
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