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Old 06-07-2003, 12:47 PM   #1831
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Originally posted by markp27
Since about the age of 3 I had a huge interest in F1 - an uncle used to work at the Silverstone circuit and this helped fuel my interest. From there it was a passion until about 3 years ago.
I hate modern F1 - it's not the F1 I knew and loved. For a few years I worked on the F1 circuit as a photographer and I saw each year how it was harder and harder to see the drivers and how much more closed F1 became.
At the same time I covered the Le Mans 24hrs race - although it too has been modernised, it still holds a very magical element. I did the full 24 hrs and loved every moment!!!!
I love prototype cars (especially the old Porsche 962s) and now this is my only real passion left in motorsport.

The RC racing scene (especially the 1/8th) reminds me much of the early days in motorsport. When I went to see the EFRA race a couple of weeks ago, it was like F1 of maybe 30 years ago! Fantastic.

My passion for sports prototype racing will definately lead me to buy a 950 But at the moment, those things are probably too fast for me

Cheers, Mark.
I also missed the prototype cars. We had the IMSA GTP series here awhile back. Porsche 962s, Jaguar XJ14s, Nissans, Buick Hawk, Corvette gtp, Toyota gtp, etc.
There's nothing like the sound of V-12 jag going the down straight.
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Last edited by RoyU; 06-07-2003 at 12:58 PM.
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Old 06-07-2003, 01:02 PM   #1832
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Originally posted by modellor
I think you are right about the German colour being white. I believe they used white and then switched to Silver when Mercedes entered Grand Prix racing. I am not sure about the BRG myself. But I have pictures somewhere with the old Bentleys done that colour.

Here you go guys, just found this for anzone who's interested in the history of racing:

http://www.miata.net/misc/racecolor.html

Quite interesting!

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 06-07-2003, 01:04 PM   #1833
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Originally posted by RoyU
I also missed the prototype cars. We had the IMSA GTP series here awhile back. Porsche 962s, Jaguar XJ14s, Nissans, Buick Hawk, Corvette gtp, Toyota gtp, etc.
There's nothing like the sound of V-12 jag going the down straight.
You're speaking my language, RoyU!
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Old 06-07-2003, 01:06 PM   #1834
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k... thnx for all the help
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Old 06-07-2003, 04:38 PM   #1835
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okl... i got more q's... ok... i was just skimmin over the manual and i have a few questions... at my lhs they gave me anti wear grease and ball diff grease... now... is this what im supposed to use them for?? i use the ball diff grease on the balls in the rear diff... and i use the anti wear grease for everything else that says gr.... and i asked this a few weeks ago i think... its about screwing the clutch nut on to the shaft... r u guys sure i dont need a piston locker?? cuz when i take everything off to clean it, when i put it back on wont i need something to prevent the crank from turning??
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Old 06-07-2003, 04:41 PM   #1836
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oh... and i have 2 types of thread lock... one is tamiya blue one and the other is permatex blue... which should i use??
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Old 06-07-2003, 04:51 PM   #1837
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You should use Serpent One-Way Lube for the front one way diffs.

You do not need a piston locker!

Generally all blue thread lock is the weakest, however there many be differences between brands. Check the bottles and see if you can tell which one is weaker and use that, if you can't, use the Tamiya blue threadlock. Also, do not use any thread lock on plastic parts, only use it on metal to metal parts.
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Old 06-07-2003, 04:52 PM   #1838
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yah.. i know.. but for the ball diff grease, should i put that on the balls in the diff??
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Old 06-07-2003, 05:33 PM   #1839
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oh.. and for the piston locker, will i need one to put on the clutch nut after i hvae run the engine and the compression has decreased??
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Old 06-07-2003, 06:13 PM   #1840
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ok... one other question before i forget.. do i use the collet included wit the 705 or the one from the engine?
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Old 06-07-2003, 08:30 PM   #1841
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Quote:
Originally posted by Accord

Generally all blue thread lock is the weakest, however there many be differences between brands. Check the bottles and see if you can tell which one is weaker and use that, if you can't, use the Tamiya blue threadlock. Also, do not use any thread lock on plastic parts, only use it on metal to metal parts.
Permatex thread lock has a few blue colours....

you want to use their "nut lock" blue. The other blue is too strong for some RC applications
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Old 06-08-2003, 05:19 AM   #1842
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I think Paul from Puerto Rico (paulfitipauldi) used them before. Part number is 808347 and it comes in 8 pieces. It is very light but you may find that the stock steel ones are harder for durability.

Anyway, note that there is the shortened aluminum pivot balls meant for the new FC steering blocks. Part number is 801219. They come in 4 pieces. Do not confuse this with the other aluminum pivot balls.

Paul mistakenly bought the 808347 instead of the 801219 to be used with the new FC steering blocks.

thanks a lot
nelly
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Old 06-08-2003, 06:05 AM   #1843
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k.. thnx.. and wat about the collet and balldiff question... and will i need a piston locker after the engine has been run for a bit??
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Old 06-08-2003, 06:06 AM   #1844
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and my threadlock is the permatex medium strength blue thread lock... so should that be fine??
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Old 06-08-2003, 08:17 AM   #1845
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use the collet that came with your kit. and about the diff, when i had impulse, i never lubed rear ball diff. just take it apart every 2-3 races and just clean it. never had problem with it till i sold that thing.
and about piston locker, what you can do is put alot i mean alot of afterrun oil and tighten the glow plug (before doing so, make sure piston is in the lowest postion)

and when your work is over, just take out the glow plug and put it on a starter box (make sure to put something over the glow plug hole) for a second or two.

why do you need a piston locker anyways?
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