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Old 06-05-2003, 08:58 PM   #1771
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Well I'm happy that I can share information freely... In fact I'm more happy if everybody else can contribute together whatever they know as everybody else (including me) can learn something new too

I find that the more I try to give out information, the more I learn and if what I give out is wrong, somebody else will correct me.

I'm glad we can all get along here and not be the rowdy asskissers crowd elsewhere in the forum always throwing punches at us... They always get defensive and attack, even though not provoked by us or people who know more than themselves... I don't know what it is but it is as though they something against the 705 on the track that they need to mud sling us here in the forums... Can''t we all get along nicely?
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Old 06-05-2003, 09:17 PM   #1772
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Quote:
Originally posted by superk
also...I run on a small track...say...110' x 65' track. I need to get my gear and drive trai ratio lower...what can I do??

Anoter question...it seem like there is no room for the on/off switch...where do u guys put it??
For smaller tracks, you need higher ratio, not lower ratio This has been mentioned before in the forum but I'll mention it again

The standard pullies are 23T brake pulley and 46T diff pulley and should be combined with the 18T rear side pulley. To achieve a shorter overall gear ratio, the 22T brake pulley and 47T diff pulley
can be used in combination with the 17T rear side pulley which would be necessary to maintain the proper overdrive ratio between front and rear. Part numbers for the following pulleys are as follows;

22T: 909242
47T: 808376
17T: 801252

You do not need to change the belts when you change the pulleys. The rear belt will fit the same but the side belt will be slightly loose. You can tighten it a little by using the side belt tgensioner.

The stock pinions and spurs that are provided in the kit are 16T/19T and 49T/45T. What you could do is to get 15T/18T pinions and get 50T/46T spurs. Part numbers for the following pinions and pulleys are as follows;

15T: 909555 (alu) or 909575 (steel)
18T: 909558 (alu) or 909578 (steel)
50T: 902450
46T: 902446

With the 15T/18T pinions and 50T/46T spurs and the optional higher internal ratio pulleys (22T, 47T and 17T), you'll end up with 7.12 for the 1st gear and 5.46 for the 2nd gear.

Test it out on your track. If you feel you need a higher gear ratio, come back and I'll probably give you more information

As for the switch, this information (along with pictures from other 705 users) was also posted. There is actually no place for a switch. You need to manually drill it on the radio plate or you can mount it at the side of the throttle servo. But the general consensus is that you can use a servo extender wire plug. Safer and easier.
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Old 06-05-2003, 09:22 PM   #1773
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Default 705 LOVE

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Well I'm happy that I can share information freely... In fact I'm more happy if everybody else can contribute together whatever they know as everybody else (including me) can learn something new too

I find that the more I try to give out information, the more I learn and if what I give out is wrong, somebody else will correct me.

I'm glad we can all get along here and not be the rowdy asskissers crowd elsewhere in the forum always throwing punches at us... They always get defensive and attack, even though not provoked by us or people who know more than themselves... I don't know what it is but it is as though they something against the 705 on the track that they need to mud sling us here in the forums... Can''t we all get along nicely?
AAHHH....CAN YOU FEEL THE LOVE IN HERE!!!

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Old 06-05-2003, 09:35 PM   #1774
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Oh..yha...and I also have front lock diff from my Impulse. Not sure about the pully size but..I can use it in my 705 right? I like the lock diff better...since I can use the brakes...just easier for me to drive.

I think I might just leave the inter nale drive ratio alone for now..and I just do the gear 1st. I run 50t/47t and I tink 12t/15t. The car seem to have good speed.
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Old 06-05-2003, 09:35 PM   #1775
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Punisher and InitialD:

Thanks for the info!
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Old 06-05-2003, 10:00 PM   #1776
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Quote:
Originally posted by superk
Oh..yha...and I also have front lock diff from my Impulse. Not sure about the pully size but..I can use it in my 705 right? I like the lock diff better...since I can use the brakes...just easier for me to drive.

I think I might just leave the inter nale drive ratio alone for now..and I just do the gear 1st. I run 50t/47t and I tink 12t/15t. The car seem to have good speed.
50T/47T and 12T/15T are spurs and pinions from the old Impulse with the finger type clutch. These spurs and pinions do not fit on the Centax II and the 2 speed gearbox found in the 705. The pinions from Centax are different from the pinions on the standard clutch found on the Impulse.

The method that I have outlined is the only way of getting higher final drive ratios on the 705 unless you can find 14T pinions that will fit the Centax II clutchbell...

Did you mean the solid axle? Yes, they can be used in the 705. In fact the front gear diff from the Impulse can also be used. However, for both to be installed, you need the drive shaft adapter (801388) or the pro version (801393). I hope you have either one to run the solid front or gear diff. If you do not, I suggest you get the pro version. Harder and they last much longer.
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Old 06-05-2003, 10:01 PM   #1777
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Default Re: 705 LOVE

Quote:
Originally posted by PUNISHER
AAHHH....CAN YOU FEEL THE LOVE IN HERE!!!


Eeewwww
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Old 06-05-2003, 10:18 PM   #1778
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Thanks InitialD....I will stop at the LHS tomorrow..and see what they got. For now..I have to built the car and mare sure...it all good. I think I just going to run all stock off the box for now. See how it goes.

Any setup trick? I run on the parking lot race track. Quite a bit dust and dirt. What kind of tires should I run? better foam or rubber?? (I just start to switch every thing to foam tires)

Thanks
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Old 06-05-2003, 11:01 PM   #1779
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Well I'm happy that I can share information freely... In fact I'm more happy if everybody else can contribute together whatever they know as everybody else (including me) can learn something new too

I find that the more I try to give out information, the more I learn and if what I give out is wrong, somebody else will correct me.

I'm glad we can all get along here and not be the rowdy asskissers crowd elsewhere in the forum always throwing punches at us... They always get defensive and attack, even though not provoked by us or people who know more than themselves... I don't know what it is but it is as though they something against the 705 on the track that they need to mud sling us here in the forums... Can''t we all get along nicely?
Yep, sounds good to me!

Here in Germany, or at least in my region, Serpent is the dominant player and everyone helps each other out. It probably re-inforces istelf, but also this is due to the quality of the Serpent product.
Having originally wanted to go for a Mugen, I have absolutely no regrets about my 705 purchase - the car is fantastic.
I was a beginner when I purchased my car and thanks to the help of InitialD, Modeller, Punisher and Fmolzer, to name but a few, I was able to iron out all my problems during building and setup.

These are the type of people who make a good "community" and forum.

I hope to be able to contribute what I can to try and give back some of the help which I have received, to hopefully add to the usefulness of this forum.

I've seen all-too-many forums get bogged down and destroyed by people attacking one another, to the point where once useful forums degenerate to the level where it is no longer worthwhile logging in.

I hope this forum continues as it currently is for a long time!

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 06-05-2003, 11:22 PM   #1780
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Default Early morning driving!

I thought I'd take a drive to my local circuit this morning before going to work.
So that I could have quite a nice long quiet session, I ended up setting off for the circuit at 05:00!!! :-) Fortunately I get-up pretty early every morning, so the pain wasn't great

As we had thunderstorms yesterday evening, the track surface was damp (no standing water, though). I was hoping to test out my new setup and body work, to see if the handling of my 705 had improved.
On seeing the damp track, I knew that I'd not get much feedback, as the grip levels would be very low.

On to the circuit, I realised I'd have to turn my ATV for my breaks down - I'd previously set this to 50% in the dry. I took it down to 25% and was able to break quite strongly still in a straight line! Pretty happy that my new setup still allowed me to break in a straight line, especially with such low grip levels.
But there was no way that I could further improve my desiered setup.

It was fun driving, with the car in a four-wheel drift out of the tight corners.

But I came across a problem which cut my run short: engine cut-out!

Obviously something to do with the damp conditions, the engine would simply cut-out after five minutes of running. To restart it, I had to wait another five minutes before it fired up again.

I could understand that standing water could give a problem, but why should a damp surface also lead to such problems? Underneath the body work, the car was hardly wet!!

Could the glow plug number have something to do with this or is it just the dampness?

How can I protect against this?

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 06-06-2003, 01:47 AM   #1781
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Quote:
Originally posted by superk
Any setup trick? I run on the parking lot race track. Quite a bit dust and dirt. What kind of tires should I run? better foam or rubber?? (I just start to switch every thing to foam tires)
Just build the car and follow the standard setup first. Drive the car and let us know what is lacking and what is too much. Then we'll help you tune it from there to your liking and driving style.

BTW, the standard setup given is for foam tires only. What I have experienced is that for clean surfaces, foam tires are the choice and for dirty and dusty tracks, rubber tires are better... That was before I tried softer tire compound like 35 shore. It now hooks even on dirty and dusty tracks.

Michael Salven mentioned before that the structure of the tires need to be closed and fine type in order to grip in a dirty track. I noticed that the Ellegi and the other GRP brands do not have this type of foam structure. I find that Nitro Shoes and Speedmind foams have very fine and closed structure which is good for dirty tracks.
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Old 06-06-2003, 02:05 AM   #1782
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Default Re: Early morning driving!

Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
But I came across a problem which cut my run short: engine cut-out!

Obviously something to do with the damp conditions, the engine would simply cut-out after five minutes of running. To restart it, I had to wait another five minutes before it fired up again.
Yes, I know how it feels like driving in those conditions especially when the car drifts in 4 wheel drive when you input the throttle

Anyway, concerning your engine problems, it may be that your carb settings are not right for the weather... Perhaps you should give us more details like what plug you're using and what the temperature is like early in the morning and how is the weather different from the days you usually play... From what you've described, it sounded like your engine overheated as you mentioned that you needed 5 more minutes to be able to start your engine...

Just guessing here but early in the morning (cold), oksigen levels are pretty high. In those conditions, you actually need to richen your needles to compensate for the rich oxygen available in the atmosphere if you already set your carb needles for a hot sunny weather. In hot weathers where oxygen levels are less, the carb settings need to be lean to compensate for the lean oxygen levels.

But before you start messing around with the carb needles, take the glow plug out and put it on the glow plug driver to check if the plug has already burnt out. The plug coils should have a bright orange glow.

I suggest you write down your low end, high end and mid end needle settings before you venture further into carb tuning. If you're stuck or messed the needle settings, you can always revert to the previous setting. If all fails, what I do is set the high end needle to 5 turns out, low end needle to 4 turns out and the mid end brass needle flat to the carb body. Remove the air filter and set the idle needle opening to be about 0.6 mm. Tune the engine from there, leaning the high end needle first 1/8th of a turn at a time till you reach a very nice crisp high rev on the engine. After that is found, lean out the low end needle till the engine idles well and revs cleanly from idle. The rule of thumb is that the engine should be able to idle 15 to 20 seconds at a constant RPM.
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Old 06-06-2003, 05:28 AM   #1783
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Hi InitialD,

I'll have to check my settings, but I did just put a new glow plug in ( a 6 instead of the old 5). Maybe it was too cold for the 6.
I didn't have time to try the five unfortunately and never really considered it

I don't have time after work, so I'll try and go tomorrow morning again and try the number 5 this time.

Then afterwards I have two weeks holiday where I ride my bike throught the Swiss Alps to lake Garda in Italy But no RC

Thanks for the info - I'll take note of what you described.

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 06-06-2003, 06:42 AM   #1784
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well... it looks like i'll be owning one more serpent car. i just bought 705 off of ebay for $300
too bad i won't see that thing till i go back to the states on 3rd. damn!

initialD, yeah euro is my bro in law. and yeah he's still around just not here. lol. he's been busy with his work.
oh and he has mugen now.

now. anyone here know if front impact belt will fit on 705?
and rear knuckle arm?
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Old 06-06-2003, 07:17 AM   #1785
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I need some help on step 4.1 and 4.2 of the manual. First, 4.1 step 3 for the 2.5x18mm posts that go into the right rear bulkhead, how far did you push these in? I have them in approx 1-2 mm flush with the backside. I don't want to have the pins to long that they interfere but not long enough that the calipers fall off during breaking. Second is 4.2, im now assuming that I put the shaft in backwards as the notch at the end is on the wrong end (2 speed side instead of the side pully side) Thanks for your help. Sorry if this has been asked before, it's hard to go through 60 pages of posts.

Last edited by John Fontaine; 06-06-2003 at 07:24 AM.
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