markp27

WOW! Thanks for the info InitialD!!!!

That was a really clear and informative description there!!!

You couldn't possibly give an explination of what the effects of altering the position of the shock mounting would be, i.e. the differing holes on the front and rear carbon shock bridges?
Is this similar to altering the hardness of the spring (i.e. more upright shocks are like harder springs, more horizontal like softer?) Does the position also affect the weight transfer during breaking/accelerating?

Thanks for the help - one crate of German beer on its way ;-)))))

Mark.

InitialD

You will have problems with some rims. The ones that work good are the rims from Ellegi and their GRP varients. They are guaranteed to work fine. I have tried Jaco Nitro Shoes and they work fine too. Their rims are harder and after a race, I hardly find any scuffing in the rims due to rubbing with the knuckles.

Speedmind tires only work in the rear. The front tire rims rub against the knuckles.

InitialD

You must realise that there are a lot of places where 1/10 TC racing is done without rules or just a limited set of rules. Even if they had rules, they allow outlaw engines to be run.

Most of the time in most races around this region, rules regarding the engine is open as long as it is rated .12. Reason for this is because if they were to limit the engines, they have to have to do tech inspection. Not many people are familiar on how to carry this out.

I am actually not intimidated with the Rodys and the JP engines that I go against... YET. Most of the time I beat people with modified engines with a lowly backyard engine of mine but the times when I loose, I know that it is not the engine that made the difference but the lack of skill which I still need to work upon. So, I am at that stage where I know a modified engine would not help me do better. My engine is fast enough for my level of skill at the moment.

InitialD

I'll PM you my mailing address. I hope I don't get into trouble with the local customs

Yes, the more horizontal the shock geometry, the softer / more progressive the shocks would be.

Altering the position of the shock (i.e. more vertical or horizontal) is a fine tuning thing. A more drastic way to change the hardness of the spring is to change the spring itself.

If the front shocks are more horizontal than the rear, you get more steering as the front tires will get more traction.

If the rear shocks are more horizontal, you get more rear traction but you loose a little steering.

Of course, the shocks (and hence the placement of the shocks) affect the weight transfer... But I would say that the viscosity of the shock oil affect the weight transfer more. It determines how fast or how slow the weight transfer occurs.

What I usually do on my car is to use a thicker shock oil and possibly a one grade stiffer spring in the front on a one way front diff setup. This is precisely to counter the weight transfer that would occur in the front off throttle. I think it makes the car more stable.

Anyway, I have seen from the setups posted on mytsn by most team drivers and they are putting their front and rear shocks (with red springs and 30wt oil) on the bearing block (old Streetspec setup) without the use of the shock towers. I'm currently trying out this setup but with a thicker oil in the front than the rear. I like the amount of steering that I get from this setup. I would think based upon this experience, the cars that are driven by the team drivers are set up to have a tremendous amount of steering on the car.

InitialD

Good to know that your car is working OK Well, I hope all of us participate and share information with each other. I'm just sharing information that I know. In turn I hope those with other information as well share theirs

As the saying goes, the more you give, the more you receive.

taz5176

initiald, how much fuel line (to replace the foam inserts) shd i use in the membranes?

InitialD

I don't know. Have not tried it yet. Look at the picture on mytsn and make a guess on the length of the fuel tube base on the picture.

John Fontaine

iTrader: (2)

Just so most of you know, the shocks on the 705 are the same serpent shocks on the Xray EVO II. If you need shock shafts and can't find them in the serpent area, looks for replacements in the xray section.

I'm still deciding between the 705 and the Mugen MTX-3. Sense I race an Xray than the obvious choice to buy is the 705, but I can't make up my mind. I can't make my mind up on an engine either, SX12, SX12 3p race MS or the SX12 5p MS. Are you guys getting good handling from the 705, i know there are loads of setups on mytsn.

superk

iTrader: (8)

So..where can I get the deal on 705?? after all that read... My impulse pro running pritty good... all the parts from my impulse will fit the 705??? Belt, a armm, up right and turn knockle...most braking parts.

I also....thinking of getting an 705 upgrade kit from Bruckner Hobbie...will it worth the money?? or should I just go get a new one?? any one with any experience with the upgrade kit?

lost man

nevermind

InitialD

You wouldn't go wrong with any car you decide. Both are equally good. If you're running on a long track, the 705 has the advantage in terms of gearing. If you're on a short track, the stock gears and setup of the MTX-3 would be good. In any case, you can make the 705 handle as good if not better than the MTXS-3 on short tracks. Just need to change some pulleys to change the internal ratios and you're done. Look back a few post and you can find those post there.

The setups posted on mytsn will give you a good starting point. After that, you can by all means fine tune and change the setting according to your liking and your driving style. One man's meat is another man's poison. Most importantly, you need to know the reason why this and that is done to the car. If you understand thos things, then you will be able to tame your car on any track you. This goes for any cars and not just the 705. Perhaps you can also talk to the people who run 705 or the Impulse at your track. They can probably give you a better headstart.

As for the shocks, I know that Xray came out with the same shocks the current 705, 835 and the 950 cars are using. But then I was informed that the shock lengths of the EVO II are all the same unlike on the previous EVO I where the fronts are shorter than the rears. The EVO I shocks are a direct replacement for the Impulse and 705. I may be wrong on this... Maybe somebody else can comment.

As for engines, it depends on what you want. Legal or Outlaw. There are legal modified engines which are very powerful but they are hand modified. Look for the threads on this forum. If you want to play it safe, then a JP modified or the RB Rody tuned engines are your best bet. You pay a price for them though. The Rody and the JP engines are come in legal and outlaw versions. So take note of that.

The MS version of the NovaMega engines are only slightly tuned. Mostly at the carb. I guess their performance is slightly above the normal grade Novarossi and RB engines. But then again, the end result of the engine performance (whatever it is) depends on your tuning skills. A normal engine properly tuned can take a JP or a Rody tuned engine which is poorly tuned.

InitialD

Yes, the Impulse PRO parts are the same as the ones used on the 705 to a certain extent. The shock towers, pivot pins, the arms, knuckles, belts are the same. However, note that the pulleys aren't when it comes to braking parts (of ever they brake ).

The upgrade kit is not worth the money. You do not get the Centax II and the new lightened 2 speed gearbox found on the 705. I don't think there is a rear ball diff either in the upgrade kit. Even Serpent reps from the Holland office commented that they had already stopped making these upgrade kits as they think that it is not worth it and that is the reason why they did not publish it in their products forum.

Better way I think is to sell the Impulse PRO and get the 705 or if you're like me, get the 705 and keep the Impulse PRO as a spare car for parts or if you like as a test car to experiment with different setups, gearing etc.

nizee

Nothing i could agree more on this. Sometimes i kinda sad to see someone new getting a turbo engine and end up breaking the car apart.

Power without control is nothing.....

nizee

Not sure about InitialD, but when i add a small O-ring and the form (from the center piece of the body cushion), its about 4~4.5mm.

Hope that helps.

nizee

You better off getting a new one then the upgrade. Its much cheaper.

Look on ebay for some good deal on the 705.