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Old 05-21-2003, 04:15 PM   #1486
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Default Polar movement

I hear alot about polar movement...What is it? How does it effect the car?
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Old 05-21-2003, 06:18 PM   #1487
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Hey guys I forgot to show you guys my car. Here it is:








Novarossi S5 Turbo
RD Logics Turbo Legal Pipe
Airtronics 358 servo
Hitec 625 Throttle Servo
Novak XXtra
OFNA failsafe


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Old 05-21-2003, 06:22 PM   #1488
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Default

Quote:
Originally posted by DOMOisCOOL
Hey guys I forgot to show you guys my car. Here it is:








Novarossi S5 Turbo
RD Logics Turbo Legal Pipe
Airtronics 358 servo
Hitec 625 Throttle Servo
Novak XXtra
OFNA failsafe



What type of shocks are you running? Nice car by the way!
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Old 05-21-2003, 07:13 PM   #1489
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nice, nice, nice... reminds me of my car when i 1st got it all done.
dun forget abt the air filter b4 running in, hehehe, juz j/k, u shd know tat
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Old 05-21-2003, 07:32 PM   #1490
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Hi Domo,, Nice car,,!!!

One Question,, what are you're impresions about that tuned pipe combo ,, the RD Logics???

Thanks in advance!!
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Old 05-21-2003, 08:29 PM   #1491
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Default

Thanks for the comments. I am running NTC3 shocks up front since the shock shafts broke(read some posts above).

Paulfitipauldi: I haven't broken in the engine yet. I will let you know. I have only ran one tank on it. The pipe sounds awesome even when its idling.

Taz: Haha . I took those pics right when I finished building the kit.
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Old 05-21-2003, 09:10 PM   #1492
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man...been reading 705 post...and make me want to get one my self!! I have an Impulse..and upgraded to pro...and all....rear ball diff..front lock diff... got the car running really good!!! I really like how my car handel.....I also have a NTC3..that I bought at the end of last year...for some race! I like that car also..but..it seem like the impulse if much stronger..and I feel more rigid..in the impulse.. any how....both car make me feel difference...and certainly I felt better with the Impulse...as specially when I make the mistake crashing in to the board at high speed (big sweep at the end of strait-way.

Any ways...I thought very hard abou it...and I think I'm going to sale my NTC3 and get the 705 instead..... I really like to see the 705 win some big national race !!! Instead of NTC3 ...then that will diffinitely convince me to get one!!

What do u think??
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Old 05-21-2003, 09:13 PM   #1493
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Default Re: Re: Re: OLD ONES

[QUOTE]Originally posted by lost man
[B]
Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I have not tried using the old piston shafts with the new pistons. I actually still have spares for the old shafts meant for the Impulse which is still using the old type pistons. Are you sure they will work OK?

Yes they will work ...of course after you use the 705 piston on the impulse shaft it will no longer work with the 705 shaft. because like you said the new 705 shaft is keyed as well as its piston. Its very sadening to do this .but yes it does in fact work. It works just the same. I still get the "click" sound out of my shocks..I've had to do this to two of them. No leaks. Happy shocks. Come to think of it one could just get the serpent shaft (impulse) and simply dremel it and make that flat spot very easily..(If a person owns a 705 I would hope that the owned a dremel) Aint that right Niz.
Right on bro...

I did use the Pro shaft for the shock, when i was desperate for new one when mine broke during race day. I did make the click and it works fine as far as i know.
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Old 05-21-2003, 09:40 PM   #1494
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Default Legal Engines

I guess I am still not sure whay anyone would by a .12 Turbo motor if they are not ROAR legal for competition other than maybe an Outlaw Class.
Seems like a waste of money to me if you are a serious racer then a ROAR legal (Non Turbo) motor is the best way to measure your capabilities against the big boys.
My .12 ROAR Legal NovaMega SX12 RE 3P Race MS is about as good as it gets when it comes to stock ROAR legal engines.

If this forum is for Racers and not Posers, then why in the world would anyone brag about having an outlaw engine when it cant be used in competition in the first place.

I understand it's fun to have a great engine to have some fun with, but when the bottom line is racing and competition , then an outlaw engine is a non factor.

At the recent ROAR region 12 championships, they broke down each engine looking for Ceramic Bearings, Porting , Etc....
Hate to get caught with something illegal, embarassing and wrong.
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Old 05-22-2003, 12:06 AM   #1495
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another question about the car..on the Impulse...it seem like it requier to have the rims to be a bit bigger.... than a normal car...will the 705 sterring hup fit all the rims in the market??
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Old 05-22-2003, 12:41 AM   #1496
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SuperK like most people I use 26mm up front and 30mm in the rear. Fits very good.

DOMO
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Old 05-22-2003, 01:23 AM   #1497
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Default Droop and stability

Hi Guys,

I was just going through one of the mytsn forums and found someone asking a question about spinning under breaking. One of the Serpent people mentioned how critical the droop setting is for stability:

Quote:
It could also be your cart setup. First make sure the car is tweaked properly. Your rear downstops are criticle to the cars perfromance under braking. If you want it to be more stable perhaps go from 9 mm droop to 10mm. This will increase the stability under braking but reducing the initial turn in on the car.
Anyone got any experience of this? I measure my droop setting with the hudy blocks under the car - should I also check the ride hight once I put the wheels on, too, to ensure it is still the same as with the hudy blocks?

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 05-22-2003, 02:52 AM   #1498
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Default Re: Droop and stability

Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Hi Guys,

I was just going through one of the mytsn forums and found someone asking a question about spinning under breaking. One of the Serpent people mentioned how critical the droop setting is for stability:



Anyone got any experience of this? I measure my droop setting with the hudy blocks under the car - should I also check the ride hight once I put the wheels on, too, to ensure it is still the same as with the hudy blocks?

Cheers, Mark.
Yes, limiting the droop say from +6 to +7 on the droop gauges will limit the weight transfer to the front and hence the rear end doesn't break loose when you apply your brakes. This is especially important when you use a one way front diff. The reason why the initial turn in steering (off throttle steeting) would be reduced is because with the reduced weight transfer to the front during braking or slowing down, you get reduced steering.

The way to set the rear droop for a particular track is to brake and see if the rear end breaks loose. A slippery track would require the rear droop to be limited.

If it does, limit the rear droop until the rear end is tamed. As with all things, there needs to be a balance like with regards to the off throttle steering requirements. This is assuming you get your car well balanced and the rear end does not lock up upon appying brakes with a one way front diff.

Alternatively, if you need to have a lot of off throttle steering on the car, one of the ways is to play around with the rear droop. Increasing droop in the rear (from say +7 to +5) would make sure that more weight transfer to the front occurs and hence more off throttle steering.

The proper procedure to set up your car is always to set your ride height first. You can set your ride height by using 2 ways. One is to put on the tires you're going to race and use the ride height gauge to measure the ride height directly. You alter the ride height of the car by compressing / releasing the shock spring tension.

Second method as outlined by Julius Kolff at mytsn, you can take ride height measurements indirectly from the car when you mount it on the Hudy gauges. When you take the ride height off the Hudy gauges, you are actually measuring ride height as if the car had been mounted with a new set of tires (66 mm diameter out of the box). This is what you call as setup ride height and this is what you usually put in the setup sheets on mytsn.

So if you are using 62 mm tires for a race and you would like a ride height of 4 mm with these tires, you should set your shock collars so that on the Hudy gauge, the car chassis will measure a ride height of 6 mm (i.e. (66-62)/2 = 2, 2 + 4 = 6). Hope that is clear enough.
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Old 05-22-2003, 03:15 AM   #1499
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Default Re: Polar movement

Quote:
Originally posted by lost man
I hear alot about polar movement...What is it? How does it effect the car?
Polar moment? Can't remember from my textbooks but my educated guess is it has something to do with moment of inertia around the z axis (axis perpendicular to the plane of the track). Inertia is directly related to mass and the placement of the mass. The smaller the mass, the smaller the inertia. The nearer the mass to the CG, the smaller the inertia.

A smaller polar moment will make the car more nimble and agile. A car with a smaller polar moment will also cause the car to have the ability to change directions quickly. Hope what I have said is correct.

Therefore, an ideal car should have all the mass centered in the middle as much as possible.

I think one important fact is overlooked regarding weight. When you use a lighter pivot ball and bearings, the unsprung weight is less. This makes the shocks perform better.
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Old 05-22-2003, 03:16 AM   #1500
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Default Re: Re: Re: OLD ONES

[QUOTE]Originally posted by lost man
[B]
Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I have not tried using the old piston shafts with the new pistons. I actually still have spares for the old shafts meant for the Impulse which is still using the old type pistons. Are you sure they will work OK?

Yes they will work ...of course after you use the 705 piston on the impulse shaft it will no longer work with the 705 shaft. because like you said the new 705 shaft is keyed as well as its piston. Its very sadening to do this .but yes it does in fact work. It works just the same. I still get the "click" sound out of my shocks..I've had to do this to two of them. No leaks. Happy shocks. Come to think of it one could just get the serpent shaft (impulse) and simply dremel it and make that flat spot very easily..(If a person owns a 705 I would hope that the owned a dremel) Aint that right Niz.
Thanks for the tip. I sure know now not to discard any old shock shafts
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