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Old 01-06-2006, 05:36 AM   #106
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Old 01-15-2006, 08:40 AM   #107
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Default pipe length

What should the recomended length of fuel line type pipe be between the exhaust pipe and the fuel tank. I'm using this engin( 3port) and a os 1040 pipe(L52 sc). Should this be as short or long as possible? and why?
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Old 01-15-2006, 06:34 PM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ProE
What should the recomended length of fuel line type pipe be between the exhaust pipe and the fuel tank. I'm using this engin( 3port) and a os 1040 pipe(L52 sc). Should this be as short or long as possible? and why?
i've tried both long and short fuel tube between the exhaust pipe and the fuel tank, both work fine actually... really can't tell the difference...but theory said the optimum length should be around 5-6 inches, cause it would stabilised the back pressure from the exhaust...
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Old 01-15-2006, 06:50 PM   #109
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Longer line will help reduce fuel bubbling though (exhaust/gastank) due to the less violent pressure. For gastank to engine , longer will equal longer run times , if it flips upside down it will also not shut down due to fuel starvation. Only drawback really is it takes longer to prime and it can cause more fuel bubbling due to a bunch of jiggly fuel line. Kinda prevents some air flow to the motor if you go beserk.
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Old 01-16-2006, 11:19 AM   #110
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Default fuel pipe length

Thank for the reply guys.

I like the idea for a longer tank to engin pipe. If im correct the fuel line must be added to the tank internal volume to calculate to fuel tank capacity.(for racing)

How do you know what this maximum length can be. I don't want to cut a piece of pipe of and see that it is still below the legal limit, and then cut another piece of pipe again untill I get to the maximum legal limit for racing.

How have you guys done this?
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Old 01-16-2006, 12:10 PM   #111
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I was wondering what is some of normal temps you have with this motor? I know mines is 220-240F. Feed back from any O.S.12TZ owners is appreicated.
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Old 01-19-2006, 03:00 PM   #112
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I talked to a guy at the track last week, mention the TZ likes to run hot. Its broke now. I had mine up to 204 once, but it likes it at 175. Dont know you'll get that much more performance leaning on it that hard...!
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Old 01-19-2006, 03:28 PM   #113
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I just ran mine this past Sunday. It started out the day running about 202F degrees and ended the day at a cool 178F degrees. I had more power than I needed and pretty much coasted around the track and won all my qualifiers and the main with ease. In fact, I was never more than 1/2 throttle the entire day and blew away the competition. Also, I never used more than a 1/2 a tank during each 5 minute qualifier (on a 130ftx100ft technical setup track). I know some folks are having issues with the engine, but I will attest that OS did right by this one. I think the key to this engine is breaking it in right and at a good temperature range in order to maximize its efficiency and power.
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Old 01-19-2006, 04:35 PM   #114
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JLock - How would you recommend breaking-in the TZ engine? Also what temperature range? Since there are many ways of doing it. Thanks
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Old 01-19-2006, 04:42 PM   #115
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I believe there is an actual TZ thread in the nitro engine forum. But from what I can tell a lot of people are finding good power in the 180's range. I wouldnt push it much beyond that.

Granted Ive taken my novarossi motor to 270 and it still was fine , its just how this motor goes. Generally 240 is the max you would want to do with any motor. But Ive heard of many people saying this isnt true and they go beyond that , basically looking for power not temps.

I for safe sakes and have heard many people say above 240 is no good. I go for power and then try to keep it cool. But in the case of the TZ , many many times people are keeping them under 200. I would say try to do the same.
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Old 01-19-2006, 07:19 PM   #116
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HOT TIP FOR YOU TZ OWNERS PUT AN EXTRA SHIM IN IT IF YOU RUN 30% .BUY THE PACK FROM O.S. COMES WITH 2, 1 GOLD 1 COPPER PUT COPPER IN IT (its the thinner one) MY MOTOR RAN AT 230-260 BEFORE I SHIMED IT NOW A COOL 220 AND THE TOP END IS BALLISTIC AND THATS WITH A MY GEARING SET FOR A SMALL TRACK !
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Old 01-20-2006, 02:50 AM   #117
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Default shims? give it a 2nd thought

Quote:
Originally Posted by MANINTHEMUGEN
HOT TIP FOR YOU TZ OWNERS PUT AN EXTRA SHIM IN IT IF YOU RUN 30% .BUY THE PACK FROM O.S. COMES WITH 2, 1 GOLD 1 COPPER PUT COPPER IN IT (its the thinner one) MY MOTOR RAN AT 230-260 BEFORE I SHIMED IT NOW A COOL 220 AND THE TOP END IS BALLISTIC AND THATS WITH A MY GEARING SET FOR A SMALL TRACK !
hiya Folks!
i am running a 5 port Zac modded tz on 30% nitro Sidewinder brand fuel.
i live in the tropics (singapore) and its hot and humid here.
in the TZ, i run only the 0.2mm shim, there is no detonation damage nor "knocking" as i run.
the engine is not unreasonably hot... not any more so then a well leaned out TZ.
why?
cause of the shimming!
the swish band in the combustion head helps pull heat away from the piston, THIS is important cos the more heat it pulls from the piston, the less heat induced damage your piston will experience. why not all the shims then, you say? cos its a joint, and a gasket is required. the shim works as a gasket as well. if i can find a 0.1mm shim, i will.
if you really need to increase the combustion ratio (supposedly when you use higher nitro content fuel) its better to have a thin shim and grind out the combustion chamber a tad.
my advice is DUNT shim your engines unneccessarily.... it will SHORTEN the lifespan of your engine!
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Old 01-20-2006, 08:10 AM   #118
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Hi

Reducing the shims will help with overheating up to a point but too small a head clearance will cause pre detonation of the fuel mixture. This is where the fuel ignites by a source other than the glow plug. Usually this is the increase in heat build up on compression due to overcompressing the mixture.

During pre detonation multiple flame fronts develop in the mixture and they colide causing the knocking or pinging sound. This will damage the piston surface along with the head button. You will notice a matt type finish appear on the head and piston.

Nitromethane burns at a lower temp than methanol so you need to increase the head clearance when using high % nitro fuels. As a rule of thumb use the following

16% Nitro 0.3-0.4mm
25% Nitro 0.4-0.5mm

This will give you the best power to engine life ratio

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Old 01-20-2006, 09:32 AM   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobertM
JLock - How would you recommend breaking-in the TZ engine? Also what temperature range? Since there are many ways of doing it. Thanks
This is how I broke mine in:

First, have a small fan handy. I use 30% Byron's fuel so that is what I broke it in with. I did not touch the needle setting on the carburator and fired it up. I let it idle on three tanks and never let the temperature get below 180F degrees and never above 210F degrees. When the temps started to reach 210, I put the fan on it to cool it back down. After the third tank, I ran tanks four and five under load; slowly driving the car around never dogging it. This was the most important step and you have to be patient during this point in the procedure. Tank #6 is when I started to run it under mock race conditions, all the time temping it and making very small needle adjustments accordingly if the temperature was climbing too high (my limit was 225F degrees on this engine). Tank #7 is where I starting running it like I would under true race conditions; on and off the throttle, wide-open bursts like running down a 200ft backstretch, etc. To me, this engine felt good by tank #7 and was ready to go. Oh, I did not add any shims to mine; just ran it straight out of the box.

The first time I ran mine after my break-in procedure was at the 2005 Paris Memorial Race in Las Vegas back in October. I put it in my car just before my main which was 40 minutes long. After a grueling 40 minute run, it came off the track at 196F degrees!! None of my Novarossi or Sirio engines ever came off that cool (usually around 235F degrees at the lowest). At my club track in Dallas, it runs an average temperature around 185F degrees and has more power than what I can utilize at my local track. It keeps up with the Mugen X-12s, Mega-Picco ZX12s, Sirio Evos, etc, with ease and I have beat some racers using those engines without a problem. OS has sold me on this one (cost of $200) and with a rebuild under $100, my days of the $350+ .12 engines are a thing of the past.
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Last edited by JLock; 01-20-2006 at 09:58 AM.
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Old 01-20-2006, 10:02 AM   #120
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Default break in TZ

Since your asking about break in, dont forget your hair dryer...! you'll need to heat the head up to 180-200 to get it started with that turbo plug....!
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