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Old 12-22-2005, 04:14 PM   #76
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There is one other issue that he may be having: the glow plug could be going bad. I had a race day in which the plug worked fine at idle and 1/4 throttle but as soon as I went more than that, it would bog down and die. Changed the plug and resolved the issue. Just something else to look at because just because the plug element looks good don't necessarily mean that it is.
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Old 12-23-2005, 01:31 AM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XXXNITRO
When I say it won't pull, I mean after it warms up to a temperature of around 200 degrees. From start-up to around 175 degrees it will idle and accelerate great. One time it jerked the car from my hand and flew off the end of my work bench. At 200 degrees it will idle (good pinch test results), but when you accelerate it faulters and dies. This is with the high speed needle screwed out to where it is flush with it's housing. The mid range needle is set flush with the case. I noticed when I had the head off that it only had one head shim instead of the two the manual describes. I would not think alittle more compression would cause this problem. The manual talks about resetting the low speed needle to 1 3/4 turns out. This is a very lean condition on my engine. What is a good starting over setting for all three needles? As I stated before, I have had many years of practice tuning nitro engines. This particular engine is a real poser. Everyone else loves these engines and I like O.S. engines also, it may be that I got one of the bad ones from the factory. A few guys here locally are having problems with the front bearings leaking fuel. A trip to the bearing shop usually solves their problems. Aftermarket bearings are usually cheaper than factory bearings and less expensive also.

hiya XXXNitro,
your highend needle is definately too rich!
the correct tune setting should be around 1.5 to 1.75 turns out from way in.
as Rody has stated.
if you're uncertain about mid-range adjustments, its perfectly alright to leave it at the stock setting. the mid range adjustment ( the needle on the same side as the high end needle) will affect both the high end setting and idle setting so unless you know what you're doing, i dunt suggest you fiddle with that one.
hope it works out for you, the TZ is crazily powerful when adjusted correctly.
and around the tune settings, its very forgiving on slightyly out of tune adjustments, just like all of OS's previous engines.
you'll definately like it, ima sure.
-alexander
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Old 12-23-2005, 07:36 AM   #78
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Jlock has you going in the right direction

Change the glow plug. After you break in an engine changing the plug is almost a must on any engine,does not matter who makes it. The small particles that wear off during break in adhere to the glow plug wire and can cause big tuning issues. start there first.

If that does not fix it change the fuel. It only takes a little moisture to be absorbed into the fuel for it to cause headaches.

also what car is it in?
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Old 12-23-2005, 08:33 AM   #79
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I appreciate all the comments. The engine does have a new glow plug in it. I always change plugs after the break-in process. I went to a P7 plug instead of the factory P6 that the engine came with. If I remember correctly, the manual states that 1 3/4 turns out is for the low speed needle. You have to be careful adjusting this due to the position of the idle adjustment screw. My fuel is fairly new, so I don't think that is the problem. I am sure that it is a tuning issue. The thing that I have always liked about previous O.S. engines is their ease of tuning, and how well they maintain this tune over time. I am suspicious though when three other people who race this O.S. 12TZ 5 port successfully and I all have difficulty in getting this engine to tune. We even when so far as to remove one guy's engine from his car and directly duplicate the screw positions from his to mine, we even swapped carbs with no success. Don't take me wrong, I love O.S. engines and I love the performance of these 12TZ's. I just wished mine ran as good. If I can't figure it out, then it will go back to Tower's O.S. Service Center after the first of the year. Hey thanks again for the information and allowing me to post up here. To those of you who celebrate Christmas, have a Merry one. To those who do not, then have a merry whatever it is you celebrate and have a Happy and safe New Year. James
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Old 12-23-2005, 08:35 AM   #80
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This engine was in my Custom works GSX 1/10 scale sprint car. It is now residing in my Out Front Frames (OFF) 1/10 scale sprint car. (RC10GT based sprint car).
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Old 12-23-2005, 08:56 AM   #81
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Hey XXX,

There is another issue that just came to mind. There could also be an air leak somewhere that could also be contributing to the problem. If you can, replace the fuel lines to the carb and exhaust with new ones and test. Your O-ring around your carb may need replacing (and seal with gasket seal afterwards). Your high-end needle assembly may not be tight enough and could be pulling in some extra air there. Is your glow plug screwed in tight (another air leak source)? Check the seal on your tank lid as well as the tank itself for a small hole(s). I had a similar issue on one of my other cars were the O-ring on the tank lid was worn out and extra air was being sucked into the fuel system causing some loss of power. If you changed carbs with someone else and you are still have the same issue, then it is something else causing the issue. Also, check to make sure that your heatsink head screws are tight (air could leak in around the head shim also).
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Old 12-23-2005, 12:19 PM   #82
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Those items have all either been checked or replaced. It has a new fuel tank, all new fuel tubing, new clutches, clutch bell, and flywheel. I have been over the car and car parts with a fine tooth comb. Everything appears to be okay. Thanks for the comments.
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Old 12-24-2005, 08:51 AM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XXXNITRO
This engine was in my Custom works GSX 1/10 scale sprint car. It is now residing in my Out Front Frames (OFF) 1/10 scale sprint car. (RC10GT based sprint car).
It could be your car... Try putting another motor in that car and see if the same problems happens... Also, put your TZ-12 in another on-road 1/10 chassis and see if you can get the motor tuned... ie. Mugen, Kyosho, Serpent ect... Go back to factory setttings and use freash gaskets, plugs and fuel during the engine swap... Don't just change the carb from one engine to the other... Do the entire engine swap and see what happens... Maybe you've tried this already, but if not... I'm sure you'll fine the source of your problem... Goodluck...

RC_Alan
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Old 12-29-2005, 01:03 PM   #84
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TZ 3 ports specials is back!!!
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Old 12-31-2005, 05:46 PM   #85
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Are these engines able to keep up with an average RB's and Nova's and Serpent engines that aren't modded? Just wondering cuz for 225 I could get an RB or an 12S3..
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Old 12-31-2005, 06:27 PM   #86
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My TZ3 will keep up or pull any STOCK engine. I put 3 gallons through mine in a MTX3 and was very impressed. I abused it a little on some very big tracks without proper gearing and it never complained. Still has great compression and the bearings are smooth. I was gonna put one in my gas truck to run indoors, but it would be to much motor for me...imo
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Old 12-31-2005, 06:32 PM   #87
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thanks cuz I hear and see alotta buzz about this engine.. I can't pass up the fact that they can be got for less than 200.00, this could be the club engine and get the JP FX 03 for big tracks.. thanks for the info.. Much Respect
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Old 01-02-2006, 12:23 AM   #88
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I'm going to buy the O.S. .12 TZ (P)-T 3-Port Turbo. I need some help on the other parts that needs to go with this engine.

1) There seems to be 2 sizes of motor saver filters available at tower hobbies. there is a 10 mm and a 11 mm available. Which one will work with this engine.

2)How will the O.S. L52 SC Complete Set One-Piece Pipe work with this engine on HPI R40.
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Old 01-02-2006, 01:28 AM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ProE
I'm going to buy the O.S. .12 TZ (P)-T 3-Port Turbo. I need some help on the other parts that needs to go with this engine.

1) There seems to be 2 sizes of motor saver filters available at tower hobbies. there is a 10 mm and a 11 mm available. Which one will work with this engine.

2)How will the O.S. L52 SC Complete Set One-Piece Pipe work with this engine on HPI R40.
If you want an OS pipe, the OS 1040 is supposed to work well with the TZ. Others seem to like the Skyline VR12. I personally prefer the Mugen EFRA 2501 pipe. My TZ is insane with this pipe. It's the fastest i've tried but fuel consumption suffers a little.
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Old 01-02-2006, 12:39 PM   #90
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Thanks rody.

do you know about the motor saver filter. is the size at the inlet port 10mm or 11mm.
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