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Old 12-12-2005, 10:17 AM   #61
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Default where to buy

just wonder where is the cheapest place to buy this engine.
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Old 12-12-2005, 11:10 AM   #62
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just wonder where is the cheapest place to buy this engine.
It was onn sales for $177 at RC-Toro, not sure if the sales end or not.
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Old 12-14-2005, 09:19 PM   #63
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Default headshim?

How much head clearance are you guys running with 25% nitro? os .12 5 ports.Thx.
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Old 12-18-2005, 09:39 AM   #64
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Hi all!May i know the size of the TZ engine inner bigger crankshaft bearing?Is it the same with the novarossi?
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Old 12-18-2005, 06:25 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by MTX4
Hi all!May i know the size of the TZ engine inner bigger crankshaft bearing?Is it the same with the novarossi?
No, the inner bearing(TZ-5port) is not the same as the Novarossi, which is good. The TZ bearing is a common size which you can get off the shelf. It's 12X21X5(ID X OD X W).
I changed mine a couple months back. Cost me only a few dollars. But you have to do some mods to the bearing before you put it in. I managed to get one that has the same 12-ball configuration as the original bearing. I remove the metal cage of the new bearing and replaced it with the plastic cage of the original bearing. Ithink this allows the bearing to withstand the high rpm of the crank...
Worked fine since then... (touch wood!)
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Old 12-22-2005, 08:22 AM   #66
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I am new to this site so please bear with me. I have an O.S. 12TZ 5 port. I am having a problem with this engine. I can't get it to tune correctly. I broke the engine in as I do all my engines. I leaned it out a little from the factory settings and just drove it around. The engine never got over 200 degrees during break-in. I have about eight tanks through it so far. I use Sidewinder 20% nitro with 12% oil formula. The problem is it is very touchy on the bottom end settings, much more than any other engine I have owned. The engine will start and idle forever, but once it gets up to temperature, it will not pull. I am no novice when it comes to tuning engines, so this confuses me. Three other guys that I race with that also use this engine have tried to tune it with no luck either. I have completely disassembled this engine and found nothing out of the ordinary. I have owned many O.S. engines in the past and found them to be easy to tune, and if taken care of properly; they will last along time. This 12TZ is a headache. I know that this is not much information to go on, but does anyone have any suggestions. My next option is to tune it with my small sledge hammer!!
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Old 12-22-2005, 09:24 AM   #67
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Originally Posted by XXXNITRO
I am new to this site so please bear with me. I have an O.S. 12TZ 5 port. I am having a problem with this engine. I can't get it to tune correctly. I broke the engine in as I do all my engines. I leaned it out a little from the factory settings and just drove it around. The engine never got over 200 degrees during break-in. I have about eight tanks through it so far. I use Sidewinder 20% nitro with 12% oil formula. The problem is it is very touchy on the bottom end settings, much more than any other engine I have owned. The engine will start and idle forever, but once it gets up to temperature, it will not pull. I am no novice when it comes to tuning engines, so this confuses me. Three other guys that I race with that also use this engine have tried to tune it with no luck either. I have completely disassembled this engine and found nothing out of the ordinary. I have owned many O.S. engines in the past and found them to be easy to tune, and if taken care of properly; they will last along time. This 12TZ is a headache. I know that this is not much information to go on, but does anyone have any suggestions. My next option is to tune it with my small sledge hammer!!

hiya XXXnitro!
i have a Zac tuned TZ 5port. it runs beautifully, as a matter of fact i might have abused it a little too much during the last race, but all seems fine.
when you say it won't pull, you mean at full throttle?
it sounds as if you may have fiddled with the mid range needle a little too much.
i would suggest you reset all the needles( all 3) back to the factory settings ( consult the manual) and try to re-tune. please keep in mind that the mid-range needle on an OS is not on the same side as Nova based engines.
you might also like to check these:
-remove engine and push the car, is it smooth or feels rough?there could be binding somewhere.
-does the clutch bell spin freely on the engine crankshaft? there could be binding.
-is the 2speed adjusted correctly?
-check the glow plug
-how many shims are under the head button?
by making sure your car and clutch is properly adjusted, you can narrow down the causes of this phenomenon.
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Old 12-22-2005, 09:34 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XXXNITRO
I am new to this site so please bear with me. I have an O.S. 12TZ 5 port. I am having a problem with this engine. I can't get it to tune correctly. I broke the engine in as I do all my engines. I leaned it out a little from the factory settings and just drove it around. The engine never got over 200 degrees during break-in. I have about eight tanks through it so far. I use Sidewinder 20% nitro with 12% oil formula. The problem is it is very touchy on the bottom end settings, much more than any other engine I have owned. The engine will start and idle forever, but once it gets up to temperature, it will not pull. I am no novice when it comes to tuning engines, so this confuses me. Three other guys that I race with that also use this engine have tried to tune it with no luck either. I have completely disassembled this engine and found nothing out of the ordinary. I have owned many O.S. engines in the past and found them to be easy to tune, and if taken care of properly; they will last along time. This 12TZ is a headache. I know that this is not much information to go on, but does anyone have any suggestions. My next option is to tune it with my small sledge hammer!!
I found a break in bench very helpful. I know you probably can save money doing it in the car. But a break in bench is just so convenient
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Old 12-22-2005, 10:10 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XXXNITRO
I am new to this site so please bear with me. I have an O.S. 12TZ 5 port. I am having a problem with this engine. I can't get it to tune correctly. I broke the engine in as I do all my engines. I leaned it out a little from the factory settings and just drove it around. The engine never got over 200 degrees during break-in. I have about eight tanks through it so far. I use Sidewinder 20% nitro with 12% oil formula. The problem is it is very touchy on the bottom end settings, much more than any other engine I have owned. The engine will start and idle forever, but once it gets up to temperature, it will not pull. I am no novice when it comes to tuning engines, so this confuses me. Three other guys that I race with that also use this engine have tried to tune it with no luck either. I have completely disassembled this engine and found nothing out of the ordinary. I have owned many O.S. engines in the past and found them to be easy to tune, and if taken care of properly; they will last along time. This 12TZ is a headache. I know that this is not much information to go on, but does anyone have any suggestions. My next option is to tune it with my small sledge hammer!!
The needle settings on this engine are a bit more tricky than any other OS motor produced. Unlike Nova-based engines, on the OS 12tz, the smallest click either direction on the needles make a dramatic change in engine dynamics. After breaking in mine, I barely turned the low end needle a half a click lean and the top end 1.5 clicks lean. My engines screams with an average temperature of 187F degrees. Nova-based engines require more dramatic turns of the needles, at times, to get them tuned. Before you take a sledgehammer to it, as another post suggested, reset it to factory settings and carefully fine tune it from there. If you are still unsatisfied, you can always sell it. Can I be first in line if you do?
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Old 12-22-2005, 10:19 AM   #70
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When I say it won't pull, I mean after it warms up to a temperature of around 200 degrees. From start-up to around 175 degrees it will idle and accelerate great. One time it jerked the car from my hand and flew off the end of my work bench. At 200 degrees it will idle (good pinch test results), but when you accelerate it faulters and dies. This is with the high speed needle screwed out to where it is flush with it's housing. The mid range needle is set flush with the case. I noticed when I had the head off that it only had one head shim instead of the two the manual describes. I would not think alittle more compression would cause this problem. The manual talks about resetting the low speed needle to 1 3/4 turns out. This is a very lean condition on my engine. What is a good starting over setting for all three needles? As I stated before, I have had many years of practice tuning nitro engines. This particular engine is a real poser. Everyone else loves these engines and I like O.S. engines also, it may be that I got one of the bad ones from the factory. A few guys here locally are having problems with the front bearings leaking fuel. A trip to the bearing shop usually solves their problems. Aftermarket bearings are usually cheaper than factory bearings and less expensive also.
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Old 12-22-2005, 10:25 AM   #71
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For this engine, 1 3/4 factory setting on the low end is correct. With this motor, you have to throw out conventional logic with the needle settings and tuning because this one is very different from all other OS engines produced and all of the current Picco/Nova/Sirio based engines in the market right now. Very, very small clicks on the needles on this engines is like the hour clicks on the others. I have had no issues with mine once I learned this. Good luck with getting it going again.
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Old 12-22-2005, 10:27 AM   #72
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OK NOW MY HIGH SPEED NEEDLE IS JUST BELOW FLUSH. YOU HAVE 2 POSSIBILITIES. TRY RUNNING WITH IGNITOR ON CAR IF YOU HAVE NO PROBLEM THEN TRY LEANING THE TOP END SO NEEDLE IS ABOUT 1/8 INCH BELOW FLUSH TRY AGAIN WITHOUT IGNITOR .IF EVERYTHING OK THEN YOUR JUST TOO RICH AND TOO MUCH FUEL WAS ENTERING CHAMBER,IF STILL CUTTING OFF TRY NEW PLUG .STICK WITH O.S. 6 PLUGS THEY WORK VERY WELL WITH ENGINE.
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Old 12-22-2005, 10:31 AM   #73
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ALSO YOU MY HAVE A LEAN LOW END YOU HAVE TO LISTEN TO HOW THE ENGINE DIES A LEAN LOW END MAKES A DIFFRENT SOUND THAN A RICH TOP END
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Old 12-22-2005, 02:58 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JLock
For this engine, 1 3/4 factory setting on the low end is correct. With this motor, you have to throw out conventional logic with the needle settings and tuning because this one is very different from all other OS engines produced and all of the current Picco/Nova/Sirio based engines in the market right now. Very, very small clicks on the needles on this engines is like the hour clicks on the others. I have had no issues with mine once I learned this. Good luck with getting it going again.
This needle setting is incorrect! I think you have your needles mixed up.

The low speed needle (on the carby slide) should be flush with the housing. Race tune is only around half to a quarter of a turn leaner than factory position. The High Speed needle is the one that the manual states should be out around 1 3/4 turns out... I'd start at 2 turns out and go from there. Also, start tuning for top end first (HSN). Once your happy with the top-end performance, then move to the bottom (LSN) for response

Use these settings as a reference only as there are so many other variables that effect/determine needle settings. As mentioned earlier, the OS carby demands tiny changes at a time. a quarter of a turn on the TZ carby is like a full turn on a Nova.

Good Luck
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Old 12-22-2005, 04:11 PM   #75
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Originally Posted by Rody
This needle setting is incorrect! I think you have your needles mixed up.

The low speed needle (on the carby slide) should be flush with the housing. Race tune is only around half to a quarter of a turn leaner than factory position. The High Speed needle is the one that the manual states should be out around 1 3/4 turns out... I'd start at 2 turns out and go from there. Also, start tuning for top end first (HSN). Once your happy with the top-end performance, then move to the bottom (LSN) for response

Use these settings as a reference only as there are so many other variables that effect/determine needle settings. As mentioned earlier, the OS carby demands tiny changes at a time. a quarter of a turn on the TZ carby is like a full turn on a Nova.

Good Luck
I stand corrected if that is the case. I am at work without the instruction manual in front of me and am trying to rely on memory (this is why I keep all manuals handy in my binder -- memory failing me ). I have several Nova-based and Sirio-based engines and learned very quickly that you don't turn the needles on the OS TZ like you do on the other's carbs. I have never had issues with mine and will be outfitting my club racer with one in 2006 and have another one as possible backup (just paid off my real car, so I will have a few extra bucks each month )
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