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Old 11-06-2002, 01:19 AM   #76
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I have a problem. My car is running a GS15R engine, and I'm in the middle of tuning it. What normally should the high speed needle turned from the closed position? Right now mine is at 3/4 turn from closed but it still sounds pretty rich though. Does it have to do with the low speed needle?
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Old 11-06-2002, 01:30 AM   #77
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Sounds like your low end might be your source of problem. I don't own one of those engines, but I haven't heard of an engine that is meant to survive with the highend needle 3/4 of a turn from closed. Atmospheric changes ,bad fuel and a bad glowplug could also be your problem. Once you get the base needle settings from somewhere (sorry can't help much ) you might want to isolate these areas as well.



The info in the 'Tire choice for parking lot' thread should be what you want. ( but you've been there, right? I thought I remebered you) In my opinion treaded tires are not any money unless your trying to run in rain (not typically suggested but then again you've got them crazy brits doin' it every race day ) i highly suggest the use of HPI's 24mm pro inserts though, they are the best in my opinion and easy to get.
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Old 11-06-2002, 01:46 AM   #78
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Yupp, Ive been there

How many should generally the high speed needle turned? If i want to reset, which needle need to be set first?
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Old 11-06-2002, 01:54 AM   #79
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I have no clue, but VoneS should know the original needle settings as he has that engine (I think).

Make sure you tune the high end needle then the low end when you are running your car. I've seen some people run into weird problems when they tune the low-end first.
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Old 11-06-2002, 03:28 AM   #80
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The standard settings in the manual are 2 turns out from closed on the low and high end.

My high end is set at between 1 and 1-1/4 and it IS tuned rich, my LHS said it was still a bit rich on the top end. Dont lean it out though, close the low end a little bit, if it is set a bit rich the whole engine seems to go out of wack. And how long is your pressure pipe?
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Old 11-06-2002, 05:23 PM   #81
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Do you mean the pressure line? The line from the muffler to the tank? If that's not it than every other thing are just stock.

How did you set your low-end? Maybe that part is the problem. At 3/4 turn the high-speed, the engine still sounds rich

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Old 11-07-2002, 12:49 AM   #82
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Check if your glowplug is still good. If it is not, you will need to lean out your fuel mixture in order for your car to run. However, b/c the glow plug is bad, it cannot burn all of the fuel and so a lot of fuel passes throught the fuel chamber and your car will spit tons of fuel and act rich. This a common problem and depending on your tuning skills and the type of plug you may need to change glow plugs much more often then you think you do.

Your engine could actually be good, but if you were running in high humidity, hot weather, low barometric pressure and low nitro fuel, or a mixture of these you may have needed to lean out your engine in order for it to work.

I do believe that V-One-S was talking about the gap between the manifold and the pipe. You can make this gap longer or shorter in order to further tune the pressure waves from the engine even better than just with a unadjusted tuned-pipe and manifold set.
Generally, when you shorten the gap, your engine will make more top-end power. You generally don't want to lengthen the gap in a touring car, but it can give you more low end torque. I don't believe that teh length of you pressure line would have much affect in this case, unless it is excessively short.
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Old 11-07-2002, 01:13 AM   #83
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First get rid of the kit fuel line, get good quality silicon line from your LHS. The high end needle on the GS15 can be anywhere from 1/4 turn to 2 1/2 turns, just tune the engine with about 1/4 tank, the sucker leans out as the tank level drops. Never run this engine hot it makes better power slightly rich.
The first upgrade should be the optional head #74901-14bl.
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Old 11-07-2002, 02:03 AM   #84
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Quote:
Originally posted by Im2lazy
Your engine could actually be good, but if you were running in high humidity, hot weather, low barometric pressure and low nitro fuel, or a mixture of these you may have needed to lean out your engine in order for it to work.
Ummm, I think you hit the nail on the head. darthkir plays in the same region as I do. Hot and humid. 90++ degree F the whole year round with over 90% humidity.
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Old 11-07-2002, 07:10 PM   #85
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Yes, hot and humid all the year.

From what I understand here, the GS15R WILL sounds a bit rich even though it has been properly tuned. Correct?

BTW, I'm using 10 percent nitro. After I finished that I want to change to 16. Do I need to change the original glow plug?

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Old 11-07-2002, 07:47 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally posted by darthkir
Yes, hot and humid all the year.

From what I understand here, the GS15R WILL sounds a bit rich even though it has been properly tuned. Correct?

BTW, I'm using 10 percent nitro. After I finished that I want to change to 16. Do I need to change the original glow plug?

When you're done breaking in, it is recommended to change the glowplug.

As to changing nitro %, most of the time you need to re-tune your engine carb. If you have problems like the engine will rev hard and nice but suddently the engine dies, then it's a plug problem. This can happen when you're at 10% or 16% nitro.

You can usually check the glowplug by taking it out and putting the glowplug igniter to it and see if you get a nice orange glow on it. Check to see also that the coil is not twisted / distorted or broken.

What plug are you using now?
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Old 11-07-2002, 07:55 PM   #87
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I'm using the original plug. I think it is still good. What plug should I change to after the break-in?
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Old 11-07-2002, 08:14 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally posted by darthkir
I'm using the original plug. I think it is still good. What plug should I change to after the break-in?
The reason why you should change your glow plug is that during break-in, very small metal shavings get stuck onto the glow plug coil. These same small tiny metal shavings might go back into the engine internals.

What plug number is it now? You can probably change to the same. Usually, hot weathers tend to use colder plugs (i.e. 6 or 7).
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Old 11-07-2002, 09:07 PM   #89
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I dunno what is the standard V One S plug is. What plug no is good for a 32-33 degree celcius and 16 percent nitro?
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Old 11-08-2002, 01:43 AM   #90
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Metal shavings is not the real reason why you should change out your glow plug. Usually, if you get an engine from a chassis manufacturer (kyosho, hpi, or another one of the 'sport engines'), the instructions usually tell you to break in the engine at a very rich setting. When you break-in an engine in this way, the overly rich settings take their toll on the glow plug. The fuel leaves excess deposits and your glow plug loses performance. The glow plug doesn't burn fuel as effectively, and can make tuning more difficult (theoretically impossible), and subsequentally your power output will be lowered.

So just switch out the old plug and get a hot plug. Something like an OS 8 or a McCoy MC59. Be warned that the McCoy is not as durable as the OS, but it is cheaper and once you get good enough to keep your engine decently in tune all the time, then it can last for months. Mines has been in my engine for 3 months and is still working like new.
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