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Old 11-04-2002, 07:30 PM   #61
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Hi guys!

What is the difference between a .15 engine and a .12 engine, performance wise? Does the bigger number translate to a much better performance?

I was confused to see people change their GS15R to other smaller .12 engine. To my knowledge a GS15R is a .15 engine. Can you guys help? Appreciate it.

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Old 11-04-2002, 08:31 PM   #62
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The .15 normally revs around the same as a .12 but has more torque in it.
Most clubs usually run .12 motors and most people prefer them in these types of cars.
The .15 i don't think are as easy to get a hold of.
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Old 11-04-2002, 09:03 PM   #63
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I see.

what do u mean by the .15 engine are not easy to get hold of?

One more thing (stupid question)

how do you actually say a ".15/.12 engine?

sorry for the lame question
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Old 11-04-2002, 09:08 PM   #64
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I meant the .15 is not normally as easy to get a hold of as in the LHS shops, they usually have to be ordered else where, but a lot of .12's are kept in the shop.


To pronounce the ".15" or ".12" it is said as though "Point Fifteen" or "Point Twelve" but most peolpe in the hobby no what u mean if just say "Fifteen" or "Twelve"
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Old 11-04-2002, 09:20 PM   #65
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Thanks.

What is your comment on the GS15R engine? I saw some people change to a .12 engine, why?
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Old 11-04-2002, 09:25 PM   #66
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My comment on the GS15-r, IT ABSOLUTELY ROCKS, its a very gutsy little stock motor, very quick.

A lot of people change engines because they are going for more competitive engines, the GS15-r is about $80aust where as a lot of those .12's people change to are between $150-500 aust.


But i don't have the money to change the GS15-r and i have no problems with it until it dies it won't be replaced.
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Old 11-04-2002, 09:39 PM   #67
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Thanks again

What is the difference of a shaft and belt driven car? I heard the NTC3 uses shaft while my V One S uses belt. Which one performs better?
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Old 11-04-2002, 09:43 PM   #68
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A shaft driven car has a bar that takes power from the rear of the car to the front. it has basically instantaneous response, but can do what people call Torque steer which is as u get on the gas it will pull to one side.

A belt car is like the V-One S, belts snap a lot easier then what a shaft will, if a shaft snaps i wanna know how. a mate of mind tryed to snap his by having it in a vice and trying to bend it, it just didnt work.

but belts are also lighter then a shaft.
They each have pro's and con's, but most prefer Shaft in electric and Belt in Nitro
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Old 11-04-2002, 09:54 PM   #69
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Sorry again.

What do you mean by snaps a lot easier?

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Old 11-04-2002, 09:57 PM   #70
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a belt will come apart so that it is no longer a belt but more like a long piece of rubber
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Old 11-04-2002, 10:05 PM   #71
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My belt once came off when a pebble got between the belt and the teeth. Any tips on how to prevent this?
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Old 11-05-2002, 03:00 AM   #72
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In total, belt drive cars have a lot more friction, so it doesn't really matter if the belts are lighter. And if you have a TC3, then you have ball diffs as opposed to geared diffs, so the TC3 drivetrain is actually lighter becuase a shaft compared to the belts and pulleys is maybe a difference of a few grams, but the difference between gear diffs and ball diffs is like 10 grams. Multiply that by 2 (front and rear) and the TC3's drivetrain is much lighter than any belt driven car's drivetrain.
The nitro TC3 has the smoothest drivetrain in any nitro touring car I have ever seen, but nagging problems is the reason why I didn't get one. If you don't hit walls it is a fast car ( ie, Pavidis is the world champ with his Nitro TC3).

As for .15's to .12's, the difference is that rules and regulations dictate that competition engines must be .12 sized engines in all 1/10 scale events with exception to 1/10 235mm 2wd (and 4wd open) classes. These are the real brothers of the 1/8 scale crew and use big-block .15's. The kyosho .15 you are referring to is a small block .15 engine. However, no race will allow you to use a small block.15, and so the technology in the small block .12's is much higher and so these engines are more expensive and faster and have the sport small-block engines beat in almost every avenue of power.

And the only way to prevent pebbles in your drivetrain is to run your car in a clean area. I only run on a track so haven't worried about rocks for along time.
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Old 11-05-2002, 03:12 AM   #73
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Pavidas is not the world champ. That was the World Cup, not the World Championships if im not mistaken. Furthermore, the Japanese factory teams werent there, so, is it really a world championship?

Anyways, NTC3's are nice cars. Very nice design.
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Old 11-05-2002, 03:35 AM   #74
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It was the IFMAR Nitro ISTC championship to my knowledge. I mean it was run at the place in Ohio, which was where the ROAR Nats were held and it is where they were going to hold the IFMAR Nitro Champs there as well? They had the warm-ups last year in October after 9/11 (no one went pretty much), and this was also held in Oct. in the same place, so I think that this was the real deal. (with a great deal of assurance

As for the Japanese, its kind of like the Offroad worlds... Masami and others wanted to focus on the onroad ISTC championship, so he did not race in 2wd buggy or 4wd buggy. Its the worlds no matter if you don't even have the returning champ, (or enough people to make a blue groove in the track). It was their choice not to attend, but we can't do anything about it, Pavadis is the champ of what ever he won.
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Old 11-05-2002, 06:08 PM   #75
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Okay, got it. Thanks.

What type of tyre suits for car park racing? What kind of tread and inserts should I used?
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