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Old 11-09-2002, 03:18 PM   #106
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Default Re: Battle Cry

Quote:
Originally posted by popsracer
BATTLE CRY was just a funny way of saying we have different opinions on somethings.

Sorry, I didn't know about your $$ situation. I've got so many useless tires that I don't know what to do with them. Hate to throw anything away that I spent money on.

Don't glue the swaybar ends to the pivot balls. Just the pivot balls to the arms. Set the car on a flat surface, make sure everything is even, then add a drop or two of CA and let dry.

With a better tire you will benefit from a slightly stiffer set-up.

I've never had to cut springs to get ride height. Just takes alot of patience and time.
I could re-measure everything on my HPI and post it if you would like to try something different.
You shouldn't have to unscrew the shockends more than a turn or two for the droop setting.
You can also run the 25mm HPI springs.
I am open to suggestions all the time With the HPI progressives springs cutting one loop is easy. HPI should just make the shock shaft 1mm longer, or the progressives 1mm shorter as that is what I needed.

The LHS nearby doesn't carry an assortment of springs the 25's would do the trick too. I would have to mail order..

And to set the droop without cutting the springs, the shock ends were about 4 turns out. I tried it with new ends and CA, But that didn't work. Pop goes the weasel.

Give me a list, Tires, springs, and oil wt's ride height and droop you are running. I do need to get tires somehow so let me know.
Thanks,
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Old 11-09-2002, 03:24 PM   #107
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Default Re: Battle Cry

Quote:
Originally posted by popsracer
BATTLE CRY was just a funny way of saying we have different opinions on somethings.

Sorry, I didn't know about your $$ situation. I've got so many useless tires that I don't know what to do with them. Hate to throw anything away that I spent money on.

Don't glue the swaybar ends to the pivot balls. Just the pivot balls to the arms. Set the car on a flat surface, make sure everything is even, then add a drop or two of CA and let dry.

With a better tire you will benefit from a slightly stiffer set-up.

I've never had to cut springs to get ride height. Just takes alot of patience and time.
I could re-measure everything on my HPI and post it if you would like to try something different.
You shouldn't have to unscrew the shockends more than a turn or two for the droop setting.
You can also run the 25mm HPI springs.
I am open to suggestions all the time With the HPI progressives springs cutting one loop is easy. HPI should just make the shock shaft 1mm longer, or the progressives 1mm shorter as that is what I needed.

The LHS nearby doesn't carry an assortment of springs the 25's would do the trick too. I would have to mail order..

And to set the droop without cutting the springs, the shock ends were about 4 turns out. I tried it with new ends and CA, But that didn't work. Pop goes the weasel.

Give me a list, Tires, springs, and oil wt's ride height and droop you are running. I do need to get tires somehow so let me know.
Thanks,
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Old 11-09-2002, 07:21 PM   #108
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Default Ride Height

Here my cars ride height..... Low as i can get it.

Rob

Oh, yeah my Local "track" is only blown off. It's not sugered down with soda.
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Old 11-09-2002, 07:55 PM   #109
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Default Continued

Dear HPI; I am charging the pack in the car right now. I will go out and get my set-up sheet.

Fiream; BUY a Ride Height gauge. You can get one for less than $20. Get an aluminum one, the wider the better. You will use it to set Ride height and Droop.

I'm not convinced that the "Soda" traction additive really makes any difference. We use it all the time where I race at. A SWEPT and Blown off surface is better, I think. Snow Cone syrup is supposed to be the ticket. Much more sugar in it than soda. We are going to try some at the next race.

Last edited by popsracer; 11-09-2002 at 08:00 PM.
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Old 11-09-2002, 08:12 PM   #110
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hey dude,

the best traction compound to use is sugar water.......this is the best traction compound to use since it dosent cost much to produce......
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Old 11-09-2002, 08:17 PM   #111
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hey fireman,

make sure that u dont set your ride height too low, because if you do that your car an bottom out when racing....meaning the chassis hits the track.....
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Old 11-09-2002, 08:18 PM   #112
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WHAT IS "DROOP"?????
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Old 11-09-2002, 08:22 PM   #113
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hey dude,

the droop affects steering for the front and for braking at the back......The droop is actually only used for high traction tracks.... If you are running on a bumpy surface try running the car without the droop....U will notice a major difference for the handling of the car.....
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Old 11-09-2002, 08:29 PM   #114
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Default Set-up sheet

From the top of a HPI set-up sheet.

F-Shocks:----------------------R-Shocks:
#3 piston----------------------#3 piston
45 wt oil (Trinity)-------------40 wt oil (Trinity)
Red Prog. springs------------Red Prog. springs (sometimes Yellow)
.042 in preload shims-------.031 in preload shims
(not on sheet)----------------1.925 C/C shock length
0 deg camber-----------------minus 0.5 deg camber
0 deg toe----------------------2 deg rear toe carriers
5 mm ride height-------------5.5 mm ride height

Shock position----------------Shock position
"B' on arm---------------------"A" on arm
#3 on Pro-2 tower-----------#2 on stock tower
Camber link stock pos.------Camber link in # 2 on carriers

15FE engine with Traxxas 6 mm carb.
GPM cooling head
CEN large bore header (port matched)
Paris Turbo Ring pipe.
20% Nitro
15 Tooth 1spd clutch bell (2spd is too fast for my son)

Dow Corning #4 Silicone grease in front diff.
Vasoline in the rear diff.

Last edited by popsracer; 11-09-2002 at 08:35 PM.
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Old 11-09-2002, 08:44 PM   #115
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Oh......I understnd now. I should have relized that. Just like real racecars, you want them to "Squat" on take off for traction, and you want the car to "Sit" under braking.......
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Old 11-09-2002, 09:39 PM   #116
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Default Set-up revision

Ok, I went back out and took off both F & R shocks and re-measured them. I measured with my Digital Calipers between the shockend eyelets. This is a more usefull measurement that anyone can duplicate.

Front shock length (measured inside eyelet to eyelet) 2.420"
Rear shoch length (measured same way) --------------- 2.360"

Droop is 2-3mm in front and 3-4mm in the rear. (using ride height gage under chassis)
Always use some droop in the suspension. The car will be MUCH easier to drive and handle better. It's also another tuning aid.

Last edited by popsracer; 11-09-2002 at 09:42 PM.
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Old 11-09-2002, 10:14 PM   #117
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what do you do to measure droop?
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Old 11-09-2002, 11:33 PM   #118
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Quote:
Originally posted by Fiream
Heres my setup before racing.....
Hey firearm, black springs are too stiff for the back and you have to much camber. Those are the stock tires right? with the black foam inserts right? You have black springs all the way around too.. right. pretty much stock right?

Now you know I know that car

Here is your problem.

My friend has the same problem with his car, what I noticed is the motor has bad low end because of no low-end needle setting. The motor finally starts to clean out at mid-range and there goes the rear of the car about halfway out of the corner and tries to loopout. The problem is a poor carburator for that .15 motor.

Sorry for the news but the stock motor sucks as is.
We tried to tune it and it either ran too hot or bogged badly off the line no matter what we tried. I believe Traxxas makes a carb for it and get a different cooling head for it too. Poor HPI design is to blame...
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Old 11-09-2002, 11:38 PM   #119
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there seem to be two ways to measure droop. One of them is not technically droop, but the measure of uptravel that the suspension has. to do this , you just measure the difference between the ride height and then you lift the vehicle up as high as it will go with the wheels still touching. 2mm is good for this adjustment. I prefer 1mm, but it makes the car looser ( which is the way I like it).
the second way you can measure droop is buy the plastic droop tool available from Associated, shich goes for like $5 I believe. You don't need the aluminum sets offered, the cost 5 times as much. Take off the wheels and you'll have an accurate droop measurement. The problem is that what really matters is the uptravel though. Becuase your droop setup can made so that it actually adjusts the ride height which is like cutting of part of the spring, it essentially hardens the spring rate and makes the suspension a little more unpredictable. I've tried cut spring and I prefer uncut becuase the car acts more linearly and therefore more consistent.
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Old 11-09-2002, 11:48 PM   #120
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Just get a new engine is my opinion. I've seen to many people put as much $ on their engine as the engine costs. I got a novarossi side exhaust engine and it seemd like it was twice as fast. But of course it nowwhere near the rossi's and the jp blacks (with standard plug inserts) and the mugens of the track, but I can still do well with relatively low horsepower. It only costs $130, or you could go with the trinity rear exhaust or side exhaust, the rear is a lot better though. i've seen people get carried away with hopping up their RS4, do as little as you can. Run that engine until the day it dies forever...when it can no longer start up. then buy a truly good engine.
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