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Old 10-27-2002, 09:27 PM   #16
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More camber on the front will allow it too be pushed around more, i'd try what im2lazy said.

I personally don't know the car.
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Old 10-27-2002, 09:27 PM   #17
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Yeah i did that already i've got ride height as low as i can get it and the links are on the lower holes..
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Old 10-27-2002, 09:31 PM   #18
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Then it comes down to tires and your differential setting.
These are the two things that affect the way your car handle on the track. Loosen your rear diff.
Do you know what I mean by this?
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Old 10-27-2002, 09:36 PM   #19
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Sorry, I lied, You could also go with different springs. I forget about these b/c they are like camber and, they are all pretty much set-and-forget type of adjustments.

Tell me your shock oil and spring combos.

I like the green in front with 50wt oil, and red or yellow springs in back with 45wt. in the rear. I suggest yellow at first.
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Old 10-27-2002, 09:37 PM   #20
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no
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Old 10-27-2002, 10:00 PM   #21
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I suppose your talking about tightening your diffs?

Okay, pro touring cars are sealed to use silicone greases that are all really thick to limit differential action. However, in cars like the rs4 and yokomo's gas car, we are supposed to use greases to lubricate and limit differential action. You should not be able to spin your wheels just by differential action. with your brakes on, your diffs should be tight enough that you will not be able to spin the wheels unless you are turning one of them. Go to another racer's car at the track and you should notice it is quite tight compared to how the RS4's diffs are as you are instructed to build them out of the box. Just use more diff grease to limit the action of the differential. By the biggesst tub of grease that your hobby shop has. It might cost you about ten dollars.

You could use silicone greases, but your diffs are not sealed, so you would have to seal them with stuff like shoe goo. However, if you do it wrong, the silicone grease will leak all over . its a mess if you do it wrong; and it is easy to do it wrong. so stick to greases for the RS4.

Just set the rear looser than the front.
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Old 10-27-2002, 10:04 PM   #22
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okay i'll try that
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Old 10-28-2002, 02:33 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally posted by Fiream
Im2lazy,

Car really hasn't ever spun out, but i've almost spun out many times. Acellerating and braking are not a problem, entering corners are not a problem, alittle understeer, just the way i like it, but exiting the corner is where i'm having problems. If i get on the gas even alittle it will try to kickout. I'm running about -1.5 camber in the rear. I was think, what if I get a set of wider tires for the rear?? It work on real cars.....


Rob
What you could do is try more rear toe in. You sometimes need about 3 to 4 degrees.

If your rear suspension is soft enough to allow some body roll, please allow for more negative camber in the rear. Take out the rear sway bar if you have any. Add a front one if the HPI has one.

Lastly, I don't know if you want to try this one out but when I tighten my rear diffs, I find that I get a more stable rear out of the corners when accelerating. The car rear does not fish tail easy.
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Old 10-28-2002, 03:47 AM   #24
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One factor people seem to overlook is too much traction. It may seem like you're losing traction and spinning out but what is actually happening is that the suspension is allowing the inside tire to lift too much and overload the outside tire and causing the diff to "diff out". This is usually caused by too soft springs, too high ride height, camber link placement and too light diff oil.

If too much traction is not your problem then your problem is most likely too much weight tranfer to the front of the car coming into a turn and/or not enough weight transfer to the rear under acceleration. If so then stiffen up your front springs and/or soften your rear springs. Check you rear droop also. Too much rear droop can cause your rear to lift too much under braking thus unloading your rear tires and losing traction.

Finally, get rid of those "V" groove tires and try some Sorex tires with a temp rating that matches your track's average temperature. If you're a agressive driver and like to "throw" the car around, get a tire with a higher temp rating since you are more likely to overwork and overheat the tire.
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Old 10-28-2002, 04:41 AM   #25
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I agree with most of what you guys are saying, but,
InitialD
RS4's can't adjust their rear toe angle to be more than two degrees, And the RS4's swaybars, unfortunately, don't do anything to the car when the car is set to race height. i could put a purple swaybar in front (stiffest) and take it out of the front, and there would be no difference really. so those adjustments can't do much. and I only tightened the rear diff once I found I had a tire setup that had too much traction.

But once firearm gets some shoes that grips the track like suction cups, then he may need to thicken the rear to be able to rotate the car onpower more easily.

Freakah,

I've had that too-much-traction-for-the-track problem, but he's not going to have that problem with his v-radial pro compound tires. And his problem is exiting the corner so it is not his rear droop, which means he may not have enough front suspension droop, but I kind of doubt it . And for me, when I got 40R's on my Nitro RS4, it skated around on our 130degree track surface. I was fast, but it was so unbelievably loose . I stuck 36R's and I had the usual too much traction, but at least I was more consistent. Until the last lap of my 15 minute main , I swear, the tire's overheated! . I wish Sorex had 38R's and I wish HPI had inserts one step harder than the med-hard blues. One can dream
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Old 10-28-2002, 04:51 AM   #26
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i should've said too much front sluspension droop in comparison to your opinion Freakah

But the key to the RS4 from my experience was that the camber link placement on the rear hub carrier was vital. The RS4 has an electric cars suspension, and therefor doesn't like to roll too much, when compared to a car like the Mugen MTX2.

Firearm, also make sure, that you have either 0degrees of toe in the front or toe out in the front (try not not too go past 2 if possible), Toe-in in the front end of the car causes the car to turn harder in the middle of the corner through the exit of the corner. If you presently have toe-in in the front, then this could be exacerbating your problem.
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Old 10-28-2002, 08:37 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally posted by Im2lazy
I've had that too-much-traction-for-the-track problem, but he's not going to have that problem with his v-radial pro compound tires. And his problem is exiting the corner so it is not his rear droop, which means he may not have enough front suspension droop, but I kind of doubt it . And for me, when I got 40R's on my Nitro RS4, it skated around on our 130degree track surface. I was fast, but it was so unbelievably loose . I stuck 36R's and I had the usual too much traction, but at least I was more consistent. Until the last lap of my 15 minute main , I swear, the tire's overheated! . I wish Sorex had 38R's and I wish HPI had inserts one step harder than the med-hard blues. One can dream
In my experience running rubber, tire hardness rarely dictates the amount of tire traction. It is the inserts that determine the overall tire longevity.

Using softer inserts definitely gives you lots of grip at the expense of tire wear. Harder inserts will make your tires last longer but at the expense of available traction. It's a balance that needs to be found.

For your case, you could use 36R with a harder insert or 40R with a softer insert. But I would think a first option would give you your traction and make your tires last longer.

Have you tried Sorex Type B firm or medium inserts? In my limited experience, they are consistant performers.
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Old 10-28-2002, 08:44 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally posted by Im2lazy
I agree with most of what you guys are saying, but,
InitialD
RS4's can't adjust their rear toe angle to be more than two degrees, And the RS4's swaybars, unfortunately, don't do anything to the car when the car is set to race height. i could put a purple swaybar in front (stiffest) and take it out of the front, and there would be no difference really. so those adjustments can't do much. and I only tightened the rear diff once I found I had a tire setup that had too much traction.

But once firearm gets some shoes that grips the track like suction cups, then he may need to thicken the rear to be able to rotate the car onpower more easily.
Ahhh, forgive me. I do not own an RS4. I would not buy them because of their limited tunability options.

Those suggestions that I gave were generic indeed. My mistake.
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Old 10-28-2002, 11:11 AM   #29
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hey dude,

If u don't run the foam tires you will not get the proper traction that you need to be consistant when racing... The other problem that you have, you are drving and hpi and they are very difficult to setup. The best way to solve your traction problem at the track is to pour sugar water or coke all over the track and you will have the best traction around town...
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Old 10-28-2002, 05:56 PM   #30
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Heres my setup before racing.....
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