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Old 11-17-2002, 06:51 PM   #181
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Popsracer,

Did that.....


Camber:
0 in front
1 in back
0 toe in front

Drives alot better, i just got to take those spacers out.

Question: If I do put heavier oil in my shock, thats going to stiffen them up right? Now, Can I use any oil? I work in an autoparts store can I just use straight 30 or 40 motor oil? What if I used 70w-90 gear oil, or something like 20w-50? I figure that if I use 20w-50, it's 20 weight when it's cold but as soon as it's warm it's 50 weight. Will the shock creat enough heat to do that. I also figured even if it dosen't get hot enough to be 50 weight, it may get hot enough to be 35-40 weight. One more thing when I first built my shocks the manual said to move the shaft in and out with the cap off to get the bubbles out of the oil, do I really need to do this? Is there any trick to getting rid of all them?????

Rob
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Old 11-17-2002, 08:02 PM   #182
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Default Shock oil

NO,no,no,no, DO NOT use automotive oil.
Buy R/C car silicone shock oil at your favorite LHS.(Price about $3.50 usd) Associated and Trinity are some of the more popular brands. Any brand will do. I would just stick with one brand for all of your future purchases as weights can vary from brand to brand.
(I.E.: 30 wt of brand "A" won't be exactly the same as 30 wt from brand "T")
To change shock oil, remove the caps and dump the old oil out. Turn the shocks upside down for a few minutes to get all of the old oil out. Keep the shock shafts extended. Slowly pour the new oil almost to the top of the shock.
Work the shock shaft slightly up & down several times (slowly)until you see the bubbles rising. Stand the shocks up somewhere to give all the bubbles time to rise (5-10 min's).
Put the shock bladder on the top of the shock to push out the extra oil on top. If your shocks don't have bladders then fill the oil all the way to the top of the shocks. Then firmly screw the shock caps back on. (Make sure that you work in pairs so you don't get front & rears mixed up.) Finally stroke the shocks (pair) to see if they feel the same and adjust the amount of oil to correct.
If you can get a pair of Machinists Calipers, NOW is a good time to set the shock pairs to equal length.

That's it.
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Old 11-17-2002, 08:08 PM   #183
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Default Camber update

Fiream:

If you have problems with the rear of the car stepping out in the middle of a corner. try setting rear camber to 1/2 deg. neg. This should help. The front is good at 0 to 1/2 neg. camber.

Most other cars work good at -1 deg camber at all 4 corners, but the HPI Nitro cars are a little different that way.

Zero toe gives the car a nice neutral feel in the steering.
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Old 11-19-2002, 01:58 PM   #184
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Hey I got a swaybar kit.....WOW what a difference. Handles much better on the corner. I'm getting alot less kit out now.

Rob
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Old 11-20-2002, 01:36 AM   #185
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Is the sway bar kit a sway bar for the front and one for the back?
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Old 11-20-2002, 04:38 AM   #186
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Usually Kyosho do their sway bar kits in sets, meaning 3 for the front or the back...... I think (i'm a Mugen driver)
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Old 11-20-2002, 05:10 AM   #187
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yeah,

I have front and back swaybars. Come in a set of three, soft, med, and hard.

Setup:
Front: Med
Rear: Soft
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Old 11-20-2002, 08:29 AM   #188
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Default HPI Swaybars

Fiream;

After you get used to the way the car drives with the swaybars. Try removing the rear bar and see how it drives. I think you will like the car better without the rear bar. (the front is a toss-up)
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Old 11-20-2002, 10:10 AM   #189
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Fiream,
Did you get springs too? I like to run a rear SB because I am running 25wt oil in the rear with the white springs. this has stopped almost all of the rearsliding problem. I leave off the front SB with 32.5wt oil and red springs because the car tends to push when entering the corners(Highspeed). This allows the weight transfer when off power and gets the car to turn. Remember I am running the same tires as you are the pro compound x's. I know it is different than the others, but they are running stickier tires.

I remember you were removing the shock spacers. What is your ride height (distance of chassis to ground) Sit the car on a flat surface(like a kitchen counter) and measure the front then the rear. let us know

At least you are getting your car closer to being hooked up
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Old 11-20-2002, 04:09 PM   #190
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the guys who run on rubber at our tracks all seem to only use a front bar as well. Perhaps it's worth a try.
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Old 11-20-2002, 04:22 PM   #191
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Default Swaybars cont....

Dear HPI;

I still think (from my past experiences with HPI nitros) that the car WILL handle better overall with the Yellow or Red springs in the back and 1-2 steps stiffer (than the back) in the front.
I have found this many times with the softer set-up. The car will roll to much and lift the inside rear tire. The Rear camber link position on the hubs can effect what spring to use also.

Get that ride height down. A spur gear is about 5mm thick. Buy some better tires next time you need some. With less roll and more traction. The car will be much faster through the corners.
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Old 11-20-2002, 07:47 PM   #192
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Popsracer, My questions were to fiream I know 5mm is the purfect ride height, However with the softer springs you would get more sway. That is the purpose for swaybars. I needed rear traction so soft springs and the swaybar works. I am two steps on the springs front to rear. Also that is the way the NRS4 racer came. As for camber links they don't change spring rates only the bottom shock position does. I think you are thinking of anti-squat. My camber links are as long as they can go, because I want to keep my wheels straight up thoughout the suspension movement I don't like wearing out the inside of the tires

I race with two other racers 1 with the racer2 and the other with the RS4-3 that are using this set-up and it has greatly improved their cars.

I race with Mugens, a Yok, and NTC3's so far they only pass me on the end of the straight-away because of their superior motors
or I make a mistake. I am already fast through the corners, The car pushes a little on the high speed turns, I kinda like it to do this.

So why change? also I am trying to help Fiream with his X-pattern tires. This is the only way to get those tires to hook-up.

So you give him your thoughts and I will give him mine being I am running on these tires. Is that OK with you?
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Old 11-20-2002, 08:04 PM   #193
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Default Camber link setting

Dear HPI;
I know camber link setting will not effect spring rate, but it will effect roll and camber change in a corner. This in turn may require a firmer or softer spring depending on that link setting.

I know tires aren't cheap (I have about 10 USELESS pairs) but it is MUCH easier to set-up a car (any) with the correct tire for the surface you are running on.

I am not trying to argue with you over set-ups. But I've ran the soft set-up in poor traction conditions (wrong tires) and sometimes you would be surprised that a slightly firmer suspension actually works better. I drove HPI nitro cars myself for several years before moving to a better car. My son still drives a HPI nitro2 so I am not out of touch with the cars handling traits.

Hows that, sound better?
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Old 11-20-2002, 08:11 PM   #194
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Yep, Sure does. Tires are easier to change than the set-up but what works works. I usually find a good tire (If I had a set) and stay with it and change the suspension as needed.

Bye for now.
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Old 11-20-2002, 08:31 PM   #195
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Default Tires, tires and more tires

Dear HPI & Fiream;

I have migrated to and from several different brands and compounds of tires over the years and these are my observations if your interested.

Yokomo 138G(F) works good in average to warm temperatures on coarse asphalt (not sealed) 'GF's" if hot temps.

Team Sorex 36R's work GREAT on smooth sealed asphalt in average to hot temperatures. Sorex's seem to have a much wider range of temps that they work in compared to other brands of tires.

For Concrete either Pro-line S3's or Team Losi sedan tires.

My friends tell me that the Take-Off tires work good on just about every surface , but I haven't had a chance to try any yet.

To be honest, I have not found an HPI brand tire that works better that either the Yok's or the Sorex's. Hpi 33R's work OK on my Super Nitro but I am left wanting for a better tire.
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