sinisterRC

iTrader: (9)

Thanks for the tips. As for the break linkage I prefer the fuel hose, purely because of how it looks. As for the threaded knob, I've had bad luck with them in the past. I did take your advice on the rear axles! Hadn't noticed that.

I did put in the hudy scales after these pics, that's why the rear looks a bit off.

Can't wait to test, especially with the the new pitch in the two speed.

AlanMcLean

the 0.8 pitch may not be as durable as the 1.0. i have seen my friend with the capricon some years ago, he was stripping the gear all the time. he is not a new guy to 1/8, he could afford to buy parts(he spent), but he finally moved to mugen.
as the latest 5 or even 6 may have more "flexibility" in the chassis, i would doubt using the 0.8

f1reblade

seven rings work great! i added some and the braking is super smooth.

f1reblade

Mugen has used the same rear shaft parts so you don't have to go to 0.8 or you can always go back to 1.0 . Since the GT car is using 1.0 im guessing they ll be here for a long time.

Kevin CBR

iTrader: (11)

The older Capricorn 0.8 module gears and the current Mugen 0.8 module gears are like comparing apples to oranges. I have driven the 0.8 mod gears now for the last five weekends (10 days of running). Not one stripped gear. You have to be more careful on your gear mesh with the 0.8 to make sure you only have a small gap so the spur and pinion gears are not binding. My friend (who also has the 6x with 0.8 mod gears and has had no problem) stripped the spur on his electric Mugen conversion using the 1.0 mod gear. Reason ? Too much gap. If people are stripping 0.8 mod Mugen gears, it is probably because they have to much gap in the gear mesh and not because of the gears.

Panda

YoDog

iTrader: (28)

I have also seen people mis-align the motor as well which will offset the gear contact area by not being square. Mis-matched pinions/spurs have been an issue as well. (incompatible1st/2nd combinations)
Loose motor mounts, flex in the chassis, etc are issues as well. I too have had zero 0.8 spur failures on my 6X.

sinisterRC

iTrader: (9)

Just a follow up on the 6X. I've taken it to the track a couple of times since I built it and I must say I like it more than the 6. The front upper a arm design is much more durable than the prior design, I've had a couple of brushes with the wall and have had no failures or breaks. Also the .8 gears have worked flawlessly, and provide more acceleration than I'm used to. Have not had the timer on the track to compare lap times however it does feel smoother and faster. Also the wine sound produced by the .8 gears is extremely satisfying! The one thing I can not stand and this goes for the 6 as well is how difficult it is to remove the rear sway bar, at least for me. Anyone have any tips?

Kevin CBR

iTrader: (11)

Best tip.... don't remove the sway bar. But serious;y, I have found the fastest was is to remove the rear side pulley, then remove the two 3x10mm screws holding the left shaft brace and then you can move the whole brace over to remove the bar once you move the plastic bearing holder out of the way. Sounds like a lot but when you think about the time to loosen one set screw and remove two screws, it's actually pretty fast.

Panda

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

Nice...

BigC2007

iTrader: (9)

So is the final verdict the MRX6X has lowered your lap times over the MRX6R ? If so by how much .....

YoDog

iTrader: (28)

It's basically the same car as the 6r with some refinements that improve reliability and some performance gains. How can anyone quantify a difference in lap times when so many other factors come into play at a given day and time? (such as grip, track and ambient temperature, engine, engine tune, pipe, clutch, 2 speed, tires, etc.) That's not the point of running one over the other. The real question should be, "is the car more consistent and easier to find the best setup for the current track conditions?" Lap times are irrelevant when comparing one chassis to another although it is a factor in the entire equation of comparison. Lower lap times are one of the goals, obviously but fastest lap times don't necessarily result in a win. Both are great cars and if you were buying a new car, go with the 6X. If you are looking to switch, pick up the conversion kit and see what the new components have to offer at your track. If you are looking to save a few bucks, the 6r is a great bargain. The 6X front end gives you better reliability of the dual pillow ball knuckles and aluminum bearing inserts while providing the tuning option of inline and trailing axle positions. The rear changes add strength and reduced angular flex of the upper links. (for reliability and consistency) There are some slight changes in shock positions that provide more tuning options and refinement of performance under certain conditions. Many changes cater to tracks like SCS which are high grip and smooth. You may not see a performance gain on other tracks due to these changes. Good luck in your racing en devour!

Roelof

The main factor is that it is a fresh builded car. If you did build a new 6R then you would also be faster because with a new car the play and flex is very limited and all is as straight as possible.

BigC2007

iTrader: (9)

Very well said .... Thanks

YoDog

iTrader: (28)

There's nothing like that new car feeling.

sinisterRC

iTrader: (9)

100% accurate.