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IGT8 - Nitro 1/8 Scale GT

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Old 06-23-2015, 09:56 AM
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Are you guys having trouble with the bearings in the front and rear gear boxes? I run the aluminum bearing carriers in there, but they seem to develop more and more of a wiggle after each run - eventually, they just blow out the bearings. I've even placed a washer under the screw that holds the carrier in the gearboxes to hold more of it - any ideas?
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Old 06-24-2015, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by ChadBlanton View Post
Are you guys having trouble with the bearings in the front and rear gear boxes? I run the aluminum bearing carriers in there, but they seem to develop more and more of a wiggle after each run - eventually, they just blow out the bearings. I've even placed a washer under the screw that holds the carrier in the gearboxes to hold more of it - any ideas?
I've had no issue after I did the following:

1: Go back to the plastic nose, IMO the metal bearing holder puts heat into the plastic case which then softens and moves.

2: Build the case and install the pinion shaft in the bearing holder, push in place and then set the diff and align them for a smooth inter face. CAREFULLY pull out the diff. Put some CA gap filler glue around the inside of the nose where it meets the gear case. Let this set

3: Glue the outside of the nose to the case the same way. Let it dry

4: Drill the hole for the screw to accept a 3mm screw. I use the drill bit for a 3mm tap, so the screw threads its way in.

5: Install a 3mm button head screw with a washer to hold everything in place.

6: Drop the gear case back in and confirm all your alignment is correct.

I've got over 10 race weekends including two 30 min mains on it and I still have just a small amount of movement. Also, I do not use any grease on the ring and pinion gear after the first weekend to set the mesh.

Hope this helps.
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Old 07-01-2015, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by ChadBlanton View Post
Are you guys having trouble with the bearings in the front and rear gear boxes? I run the aluminum bearing carriers in there, but they seem to develop more and more of a wiggle after each run - eventually, they just blow out the bearings. I've even placed a washer under the screw that holds the carrier in the gearboxes to hold more of it - any ideas?
Make sure you red loctite the set screw on the CVD. Clean the set screw and drive with brake clean prior to assemble. It takes any oil off the metal helps the loctite do its job.
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Old 07-08-2015, 08:18 AM
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Old 07-10-2015, 07:57 PM
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How do the gt kits drive and handle compared to a touring car? How does speed compare
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Old 07-11-2015, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by illmatic94 View Post
How do the gt kits drive and handle compared to a touring car? How does speed compare
The driving style is different because of the tires rubber vs foam. Handling probably just as good, they have all the same adjustments as the TC cars. In the end would totally depend on your setup. The speed is around the 50-62mph range with the 2 speed.

In closing the Gt8 class offers its own set of challenges and takes its own set of skills to master, but so much FUN!
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Old 07-11-2015, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by tonylunatic View Post
The driving style is different because of the tires rubber vs foam. Handling probably just as good, they have all the same adjustments as the TC cars. In the end would totally depend on your setup. The speed is around the 50-62mph range with the 2 speed.

In closing the Gt8 class offers its own set of challenges and takes its own set of skills to master, but so much FUN!
So there just big touring cars? Aka a buggy turned into street car lol. They run .21 or .28?
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Old 07-13-2015, 08:11 PM
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my question is why does everyone jump to the next kit that comes out. me personally I like the igt8 but have not got one yet. as a long time follower it makes me wonder are the new kits from other manufactures worth the time.
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Old 07-14-2015, 09:25 AM
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I've been running this class for 6+ years and yes the new cars that have come out have had changes that made them faster. The car changes along with tires, bodies and engines have made the GT's go from 22 second laps down to 17 seconds. They still are slower than 1/10 nitro touring cars but I have more fun running this class than any other.

Kyosho Started the class and still have had the most realistic bodies
OFNA GTP had a lighter car
OFNA DM-1 had a better two speed and chassis, but was heavy
Serpent built a car to the new 3500gr weight and good drive line
IGT8 continued with a new car also to the lighter weight and better balance
Mugen refined an off road buggy and prototype has been fast

The last three will probably be the basis of any new car, which will just be refinements. DM-1 still has its place for parking lot playing and the Kyosho still has the best looking bodies as to realistic.
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Old 07-26-2015, 10:34 AM
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What gearing is everyone running? I'm on the box stock gearing from the IGT8 kit, and get left behind on the straights a little. I'm going to go up a tooth or two on the clutch bell gears I think.

Also, my car is like 3650 grams or so dry ... Has anyone put theirs on a diet yet? If so, what did you go with? Titanium turnbuckles, carbon fiber towers, ect.?
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Old 07-26-2015, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by ChadBlanton View Post
What gearing is everyone running? I'm on the box stock gearing from the IGT8 kit, and get left behind on the straights a little. I'm going to go up a tooth or two on the clutch bell gears I think.

Also, my car is like 3650 grams or so dry ... Has anyone put theirs on a diet yet? If so, what did you go with? Titanium turnbuckles, carbon fiber towers, ect.?
Change your spurs not your bell. What engine are you running?
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Old 07-26-2015, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by jmoneym View Post
Change your spurs not your bell. What engine are you running?
Novorossi ISON. why not change the gears on the bell?
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Old 07-26-2015, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by ChadBlanton View Post
What gearing is everyone running? I'm on the box stock gearing from the IGT8 kit, and get left behind on the straights a little. I'm going to go up a tooth or two on the clutch bell gears I think.

Also, my car is like 3650 grams or so dry ... Has anyone put theirs on a diet yet? If so, what did you go with? Titanium turnbuckles, carbon fiber towers, ect.?
You have stock gears, 48/44-14/18 Correct?

Ison stock 5port GT engine?

As to the weight, I'm right at 3500, with only titanium steering and throttle links. I am using the lower engine mounts, with a current Picco GT engine, but using the OFNA McLaren body which is lighter that the original body with the X3. I do have the light outdrives and aluminum cross pins in the diffs, but have not gone to all the light items as I needed with the DM1.

Last edited by Grenade10; 07-27-2015 at 03:23 PM.
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Old 07-27-2015, 01:49 PM
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Yep, stock gears and 5 port ISON. I think I'm going to go with the titanium turnbuckles - maybe the carbon fiber towers, too.
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Old 07-27-2015, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by ChadBlanton View Post
Yep, stock gears and 5 port ISON. I think I'm going to go with the titanium turnbuckles - maybe the carbon fiber towers, too.
Ok, so I would go to 15/19 - 49/45 for gearing, will not give up much acceleration and you will be in a better spot for the Ison. Also, close up the gap for the two speed, so it shifts smoother. Ison has some torque, so use it.

Anything you can do to lighten the drive line pays off with better acceleration and braking plus lighter weight. I always start there and then move up in the chassis. There are places you can use aluminum screws in the top, but the bottom should be steel. While your at it, add longer bottom screws for the receiver box / servo mount. There is a lot of flex at that point.
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