9LikesMugen Seiki Racing's Nitro MGT7
10-21-2017, 07:17 AM
#466
No problem. Give me a couple of hours or so and I'll post them up.
Regards
BM
Regards
BM
10-21-2017, 07:27 AM
#468
10-22-2017, 06:09 AM
#470
Hey Scott
No. They are a direct fit, unless you want even less caster?
You may need a couple of extra arm shim's if I recall but other then that, bolt on.
I like to leave my caster at around 9 degrees (actual at wheel hub) as this create's a little more negative camber on the outer wheel when turning. This compensate's for the loss in camber due to roll/ suspension compression.
If you do the same trick with the Mugen arm's and shave some material off the front. You can get the caster down a lot more
At around 6 - 7 degrees. You will not see any camber change due to caster as the angle would then be close to king pin inclination.
On the outer wheel, if equal, one cancels the other out.
But this set up may induce some under-steer at higher speed's due to the overall reduction in camber during cornering.
Sorry. May have gone on a little
Regards
BM
No. They are a direct fit, unless you want even less caster?
You may need a couple of extra arm shim's if I recall but other then that, bolt on.
I like to leave my caster at around 9 degrees (actual at wheel hub) as this create's a little more negative camber on the outer wheel when turning. This compensate's for the loss in camber due to roll/ suspension compression.
If you do the same trick with the Mugen arm's and shave some material off the front. You can get the caster down a lot more
At around 6 - 7 degrees. You will not see any camber change due to caster as the angle would then be close to king pin inclination.
On the outer wheel, if equal, one cancels the other out.
But this set up may induce some under-steer at higher speed's due to the overall reduction in camber during cornering.
Sorry. May have gone on a little
Regards
BM
10-23-2017, 01:02 AM
#471
At around 6 - 7 degrees. You will not see any camber change due to caster as the angle would then be close to king pin inclination.
On the outer wheel, if equal, one cancels the other out.
But this set up may induce some under-steer at higher speed's due to the overall reduction in camber during cornering.
On the outer wheel, if equal, one cancels the other out.
But this set up may induce some under-steer at higher speed's due to the overall reduction in camber during cornering.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing
11-07-2017, 01:52 AM
#472
11-07-2017, 03:48 AM
#473
12-08-2017, 06:31 AM
#474
Tech Rookie
A arm stiffener for MGT7
Anyone interest?
Last edited by Rclabhk; 12-08-2017 at 08:08 AM.
02-05-2018, 06:36 AM
#476
It's a great car out of the box with not much needed. Here is what I would recommend:
1. While building the kit, do the castor mod to the top front arms.
2. Once the car is track ready, try out different diff fluids. This is one of the more critical things to tune.
3. Then look at the shock springs, shock oil, and sway bars.
I've had a couple race seasons on the car and it really doesn't have any weak parts that need replacing.
1. While building the kit, do the castor mod to the top front arms.
2. Once the car is track ready, try out different diff fluids. This is one of the more critical things to tune.
3. Then look at the shock springs, shock oil, and sway bars.
I've had a couple race seasons on the car and it really doesn't have any weak parts that need replacing.
02-05-2018, 12:47 PM
#478
I have the new HTD but haven't tried them yet. What put's me off is that they are quite a bit heavier then the stock item's. But they do build up very nice and are extremely smooth when assembled! Also, a certain Mr. Drake use's them so........... They could well be worth trying.
Try the DM-09 front upper arm's. It will save having to use the dremle on your Mugen upper arm's.
Also. As far as gearing. I would get the 44t / 13t diff' gears with 15/20 (or 19t) pinion's. Depending on how large your track is.
If you build the car light like I like to do. Then add weight where you want it (to bring the car back up to min' weight).
Try putting the weight's you use on the RR corner of the car. This is the light point and will improve cornering consistancy (right to left)
The light axle's, outdrive's and part's you can get for the car, (and from the MBX option list too) improve the car/ engine's ability to "spin-up" when accelerating. Can help a lot!
Hope that help's.
Regards
BM
02-19-2018, 06:36 PM
#479
Tech Apprentice
Hi,
I've had my MGT7 for a couple weeks now and like it stock out of box. I don't race just an occasional street or parking lot run. The last RC nitro car I bought was an HPI Super RS 4. Still have it, runs fine. Also have one of the old Kyosho Nostalgia series cars ( GT-40 ). But with upgraded engines. When it comes to RC, mostly I do helis, but recently circled back to running cars. Just before the MGT7, I built an SCX10 crawler but decided I wanted to try a 1/8 Nitro so I picked the MGT7. Though I don't race, I can say it's one of the best handling cars I have stone stock. Besides the cars already mentioned, I also have a Vorza and a first run Losi XX4.
The only build issue I had was the screw hardware. Inconsistent with size. For the same size screw, most were a good fit on the driver bit, several were too loose and stripped out easily. Some had malformed heads but were still usable. If I didn't have buildititis, I would have ordered one stainless screw kits first.
As far as the MGT7 goes, what are the main wear items one might want to keep on hand, not talking crash kit but normal wear and tear? Maybe like clutch, brakes.... How long do they last? I'm running mine with a Novarossi Legend 9 port.
Joel
I've had my MGT7 for a couple weeks now and like it stock out of box. I don't race just an occasional street or parking lot run. The last RC nitro car I bought was an HPI Super RS 4. Still have it, runs fine. Also have one of the old Kyosho Nostalgia series cars ( GT-40 ). But with upgraded engines. When it comes to RC, mostly I do helis, but recently circled back to running cars. Just before the MGT7, I built an SCX10 crawler but decided I wanted to try a 1/8 Nitro so I picked the MGT7. Though I don't race, I can say it's one of the best handling cars I have stone stock. Besides the cars already mentioned, I also have a Vorza and a first run Losi XX4.
The only build issue I had was the screw hardware. Inconsistent with size. For the same size screw, most were a good fit on the driver bit, several were too loose and stripped out easily. Some had malformed heads but were still usable. If I didn't have buildititis, I would have ordered one stainless screw kits first.
As far as the MGT7 goes, what are the main wear items one might want to keep on hand, not talking crash kit but normal wear and tear? Maybe like clutch, brakes.... How long do they last? I'm running mine with a Novarossi Legend 9 port.
Joel
03-21-2018, 01:08 PM
#480
I'm selling my back up car, set up and ready to roll with engine and electronics.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/14272890894...84.m1555.l2649
https://www.ebay.com/itm/14272890894...84.m1555.l2649
