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Mugen Seiki Racing's Nitro MGT7

Old 02-24-2017, 01:14 PM
  #391  
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Originally Posted by Scott B View Post
It hasn't happened to me but a friend with a serpent had it happen multiple times so when I built my car I used a stronger automotive locktite so I wouldn't have any issues.
I think the issue is the front cvd joint getting very hot after a few minutes of usage. Sometimes it gets much hotter than the motor even. Maybe a better question is why does the joint get so hot and how to prevent it? My guess is that it could be because of the awkward angle the shaft is positioned.
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Old 02-24-2017, 03:58 PM
  #392  
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Originally Posted by tc4basher View Post
I think the issue is the front cvd joint getting very hot after a few minutes of usage. Sometimes it gets much hotter than the motor even. Maybe a better question is why does the joint get so hot and how to prevent it? My guess is that it could be because of the awkward angle the shaft is positioned.
I'd guess your mesh is to tight causing the heat, I doubt it has anything to do the angle as some off-road buggys I've seen have more angle to get the motor closer to the center.
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Old 02-25-2017, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Scott B View Post
It hasn't happened to me but a friend with a serpent had it happen multiple times so when I built my car I used a stronger automotive locktite so I wouldn't have any issues.
locktite and heat shrink over the grub screw. I have only had it happen to me on my mbx7t during it's first race.
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Old 02-27-2017, 06:49 PM
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Thanks guys. I think the heat actually comes from having dirt inside the joint. I dont run the rubber boots because they always shred off from all the power I run (8s/29.6v) so Im getting more dirt in there than normal. Everytime it starts getting pretty hot after a short amount of time I take the shaft apart and clean inside the joint. It usually runs much cooler again after cleaning.
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Old 02-28-2017, 05:59 PM
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Hi guys, it is normal that this can happen, in the central articulation is where more temperature is produced by both the brakes and the change and friction of the cardans so it is best to use in the Center Joint Cup loctite 270 which is High traction and will never let go. When we have to change the crowns can be loosened with a gas torch giving a little heat.
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Old 02-28-2017, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Paper2 View Post
Hi guys, it is normal that this can happen, in the central articulation is where more temperature is produced by both the brakes and the change and friction of the cardans so it is best to use in the Center Joint Cup loctite 270 which is High traction and will never let go. When we have to change the crowns can be loosened with a gas torch giving a little heat.
Is that loctite 270 like red loctite?
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Old 03-01-2017, 11:51 AM
  #397  
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Originally Posted by tc4basher View Post
Is that loctite 270 like red loctite?
Yes. It is RED.

I have never used red loctite and myself, I would not advise it. I do ALLWAYS use Loctite, but I use the blue.

The most important point to remember when using the blue loctite is to allow to set once tightened! Ideally, use on a clean screw and cup. Ensure the cup and shaft are in the correct position. Then loctite the screw in place. Wipe away the excess then leave for I would say, at least 20 minutes to set and gain full strength. Longer if possible.

So be careful if removing the screw/ cup before a race. Try and ensure 30 mins of "Non-run" time after you have tightened everything.

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Old 03-02-2017, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by British Menace View Post
Yes. It is RED.

I have never used red loctite and myself, I would not advise it. I do ALLWAYS use Loctite, but I use the blue.

The most important point to remember when using the blue loctite is to allow to set once tightened! Ideally, use on a clean screw and cup. Ensure the cup and shaft are in the correct position. Then loctite the screw in place. Wipe away the excess then leave for I would say, at least 20 minutes to set and gain full strength. Longer if possible.

So be careful if removing the screw/ cup before a race. Try and ensure 30 mins of "Non-run" time after you have tightened everything.

Regards
BM
I've always used red for the grub screws from diff to the two speed. Had failures with blue. A little bit of a pain to get off. Remember to use new grub screws after 3 or 4 installs. Edge gets worn.
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Old 03-03-2017, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Grenade10 View Post
I've always used red for the grub screws from diff to the two speed. Had failures with blue. A little bit of a pain to get off. Remember to use new grub screws after 3 or 4 installs. Edge gets worn.
Yes ...... Red would certainly stop it from coming loose so I can understand why it's used Mark.

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Old 03-03-2017, 05:16 PM
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Ready to eat some serpents this Sunday at the Second round of the Dominican Championship! Right now this is the only GT7 in the island and we are leading the championship!
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Old 03-03-2017, 05:25 PM
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Hey, have any of you seen the shock extenders for the mugen? Like the ones the serpent use?
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Old 03-04-2017, 08:55 AM
  #402  
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Mugen Seiki Racing's Nitro MGT7-img_4894.jpg

This is what I'm looking for guys!
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Old 03-04-2017, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by CaribbeanPirate View Post
Attachment 1415350

This is what I'm looking for guys!
Get yourself 4 hub carrier front arm mounts, part number MUGE2109, take a dremel and a drill, and you can make it yourself. I have been using for a while, but I don't think it makes much of a difference.
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Old 03-04-2017, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by thommi View Post
Get yourself 4 hub carrier front arm mounts, part number MUGE2109, take a dremel and a drill, and you can make it yourself. I have been using for a while, but I don't think it makes much of a difference.
I though about that, can you send me a picture of yours? maybe to my email [email protected]
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Old 03-05-2017, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by CaribbeanPirate View Post
I though about that, can you send me a picture of yours? maybe to my email [email protected]
I should have some pictures somewhere... I am not using them anymore, so I have to look for it...
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