blis

Yep, soft clutch springs ... so the red works?

Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

Harry:
Only the preapplied stuff... I am not game to try red (medium) strength on anything R/C after using it to build a KM to keep screws in car. Needless to say i can't get most of it apart

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

Ok blis, in that case you'll need to sand both the nut and the bell threads a little before you goop the nut real good with high temp blue loctite. Let the loctite air dry for a while before running the engine....If that does not work, get yourself a buku three shoe clutch instead...lol.....

Roelof

Regarding the unscrewing nut. Be sure the play on the bearing is not that much so the bell will not touch the nut. Also check the small side hole in the bell to put a pin through to adust the nut and the nut itself. small damaged edges can cause unscrewing when the bell does touch the nut. So smoothen up the edges.

ralphierace13

iTrader: (5)

drill into into the shaft grub screw? score the threrads? are u guys nuts!!! so u put a grub screw and next race u need to tighten the nut cause the spring got a little weaker are u going to drill another hole to move the pin or grub screw up!! no, ok so it will stop the nut from coming all the way off but then u will have a soft spring again, it defeats the purpose!! even if u u put the pin or grub screw through the nut itself...… In 15 years I had a nut come loose only once and all I did was change the nut its because the nut is just a bad one.And I never use lock tight. First always keep extra nuts and if one is loose change the nut. if that don't work just use a dab of lock tight or a little high temp silicone gasket maker and your done that's it!!! same for flywheel nut. or, You can use plumbers tape the white tape they put around the threads... Also if your spring is so soft and you have that little pressure on the nut your clutch can not be set right your going to be bogging so much unless u using like a .50 gap!!!! lol

blis

I ack the clearance, but it's really the lack of tension on the nut.happens with a soft spring on 1/8th a lot and 1/10th with the spring washers from Xray. The specs for setting the spring tension on the washer system was far smaller than the one I used and it still unwound,. I'll resort to loctite and give it another try, there's no other viable option.

blis

Ralphie, sometimes brainstorming crazy ideas is a good thing... opens discussion, expands and invites thought provoking ideas, ultimately Im not going to make a mess of a good car . I like the plumbers tape idea because I hate loctite too!

PS: I guarantee you, use the soft spring in a MRX5 on our track, and you'll bog down in minutes with a clutch spring nut that's unwound.

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

Changing the nut might be a good idea, but at some point you will also need new threads on the retainer: you will be at the mercy of lady luck during your Amain hour run with that clutch system... I prefer my simple reliable AE ntc3(or buku) three shoe clutch system.....Good Luck guys......

ralphierace13

iTrader: (5)

im all for thinking out the box !!! but drilling into the crankshaft is just not a good idea and would not solve the issue, I just would never use a soft spring like that and I drive on tracks that are like ice!! u can make a hard spring more then enuff soft for your needs and never have a nut back out so that would be my solution just use a normal spring, make your gap smaller if u don't want so much pop..

blis

Ralph... Im not drilling into my crankshaft, the most trauma I give it is a soft cotton cloth. This is a Centax clutch we're discussing and it's how to keep the spring nut locked so I can use the Xray spring washers. Because when I tried them they had awesome kick, but as expected there wasn't enough pre-load on the nut to keep in place... and as we all know, Loctite is our last resort because we hate gumming up our threads. I've found using a stiff spring assures the spring nut stays in place, but also reduces my options for gap. If I set a wider gap, it slips, if I use a softer spring it can unwind, so I end up with the same clutch settings... so Loctite it is!

blis

Bertrand on our buggy, I use the REDs clutch, it's very nice, but this thread is about Centax

ralphierace13

iTrader: (5)

blis

I think I'll find myself in the same situation. When I first tried the washers the spec was to set the spring nut a (forgot) set distance from the end of the clutch nut, I had to from memory almost double it just to feel some preload. After 10 years of setting up .12 clutches I know that using my fingers to measure the preload will get a clutch to work. I was twice the recommended preload as the specs and it was still loose. So I need that throw in the spring to setup a larger gap for a more aggressive clutch.

PS:Yes I used all the washers too. Stacked it full. It's all Loctite from here on

ralphierace13

iTrader: (5)

banana rt

what u guys advice on cleaning clutch parts,, shoes,plate etc ,
and is it okay to use 3 in 1 oil on clutch bearings,

any advice appreciate