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Old 08-20-2001, 08:31 PM   #1
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Default Serpent Impulse

Impulse specific infos ...
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Old 08-20-2001, 09:02 PM   #2
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Someone said from another board that XRAY hub and steering parts can be used on Impulse. Anybody tried that already?

Wheels on impulse rubs on the stering rod's outside ball connectors. It can be so bad that the ball connect can be cut open. Have any of you guys here experience that? If so, what fix can be done to avoid this?
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Old 08-20-2001, 09:20 PM   #3
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What gearing are you guys running on your 2 speeds? I have a 13/16 on the clutch and a 47/50 for the spurs. I have a major race in about 2 weeks and the track is fairly open with a 150' straight. Any help would be great. Thanks


Gary F.
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Old 08-21-2001, 01:58 PM   #4
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Default You're going to have to go higher

Gary, I ran at my local track here in Miami last weekend with the stock 12/50-15/47, and I was WAY undergeared for the track. This is SerpentUSA's home track, which is about 120-140 ft. on the main straight.

Art Carbonell suggested to me that I upgrade to the Centax, since it runs from 15-18 for 1st gear, and 18-20 for 2nd gear. Of course, there's allso the added benefit of being able to adjust the clutch engagement. Unfortunately, this also requires you to use the Impact/Vector spur gears, because the Centax clutch bell gears don't mesh very well with the Impulse's 47/50 spurs.

I think the team is currently running 15/48-19/44(or 18/45?) on our track in its current configuration. If you don't want to get the Centax right now (and I don't blame you), you will definitely need to use the 14/17 standard clutch tooth combination. I think you'll still max out your RPM's early with the 13/16.

BTW, That's my Impulse in the Avatar!

Last edited by TurnNBurn; 08-21-2001 at 08:55 PM.
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Old 08-22-2001, 09:51 AM   #5
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hi guys, after 3 tanks my car stopped moving no matter how much i rev ... only the flywheel is spinning, nothing else ... haven't touch a thing, maybe tomorow nite - i'll open up the clutch assembly. can anybody give me a headsup on what could have gone wrong? ... i appreciate any help.
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Old 08-22-2001, 11:58 AM   #6
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Definitely check the clutch shoes and the inside of the bell. The first thing I can think of is possibly is oil inside the assembly? If you get oil in there, the shoes can't grab. If that's the case, use a degreaser on the shoes, the flywheel, and the inside of the clutch housing. I can't think of anything with the springs that would cause them not to open up.
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Old 08-22-2001, 07:30 PM   #7
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thanks, julio. I'll open it up tonight ... i was afraid something inside was broken
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Old 08-23-2001, 07:33 AM   #8
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Well, if something was broken, I would imagine that you would hear it, or it would make the engine stall. I think that would definitely make something bind in there! I've seen this happen to two other guys, and in both cases, some residual oil got in there. If it wasn't that, let us know.
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Old 08-23-2001, 07:26 PM   #9
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i opened the clutch assembly, everything was ok. clutch nut was tight, springs are in place. no oil but there a lot of powdery stuffs inside ...
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Old 08-23-2001, 11:46 PM   #10
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Default Check your bearings

Remove the bearings from the clutch bell and check them. That powdery stuff might be coming from there. That happened to me once.

If the bearings feel grainy, you need to replace them. I don't think that the powder would be enough to make the clutch slip, but you never know...

Last edited by TurnNBurn; 08-24-2001 at 02:01 PM.
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Old 08-25-2001, 01:49 AM   #11
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i run my car today and all it's ok now. I think it's the powder from the clutch shoe that cause the clutch to slip... thanks turn
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Old 08-26-2001, 09:46 AM   #12
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Default Exhaust header

I noticed yesterday that my rear tires were getting covered in oil...I ended up noticing a crack in my header. What is the best way to get rid of all the oil that is all over my car? Also, is this common to find cracks in the header?

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Old 08-27-2001, 12:48 PM   #13
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Use a Nitro Wash, or any other kind of degreaser which is safe on plastics.
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Old 08-27-2001, 12:56 PM   #14
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Default Great Tip...

I live in Miami, FL -- home of SerpentUSA. I saw this on a team member's car this weekend.

Pt. #808337 (rear 1.5mm anti-roll bar) is listed as an optional part for the Impulse. By itself, it will not fit if you mount it in the groove that is in the back of the chassis. You can get the Impact's Top brake plate and install it on the Impulse. In this configuration, you will be abe to mount the anti-roll bar on the brake plate so that it swings back towards the rear arms like on the Impact. Also spotted on the car was an Impact-like graphite "L" brace. I was told that this was a prototype part. This part would be required because the brake plate uses the mount holes normally used by the right and left-side chassis braces.

NOTE: If you have the rear exhaust engine, you can't install this brake plate unless you find another belt tensioner that mounts on the radioplate somewhere. You won't be able to mount the chassis brace if you install the Impact brake plate. Some people are drilling and tapping a hole in the side of the optional aluminum radio tray "X" brace, in order to mount a fixed belt tensioner there.

Last edited by TurnNBurn; 09-10-2001 at 07:20 AM.
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Old 08-29-2001, 04:13 AM   #15
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... does anybody knows of an aftermarket universals for impulse? I'd like to find out which company manufactures and which online shops sells such products ... thanks alot in advance.
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