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Old 12-28-2004, 12:54 AM   #31
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After run oil is only needed when you need store your engine more than two weeks. If you're running weekly then you don't need to add it. Some fuel provide more oil content than others but I'd still add after run oil prior to long term storage.
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Old 12-28-2004, 04:44 AM   #32
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Can you use the little 3-1 Hnady Oils at Automotive supermarkets. I read on the Castrol site that they contain Corrisive Inhibitor.
Oh and I live in Australia and Marvel is not sold here.

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Old 12-28-2004, 07:46 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally posted by baldwinn
Hello- I 'm using Sidewinder 20% which says "do not use afterrun oil ". I just don't get it, oil do not evaporate. Why do we need after run oil ? Afterall, there's already oil added in the fuel.

One of the by products of burning nitro fuel in or engines is nitric acid. This is the stuff that causes the green death on piston sleeves, bearings, and rod bushiongs. After run oil is not so much about getting some oil in the engine as using the oil as a medium to carry this nitric acid out of the engine.
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Old 12-28-2004, 09:02 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally posted by asw7576
Occasionally I use bearing oil is this safe ? I have no problem starting the engine though.
Just make sure the bearing oil does is not silicone base...
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Old 12-28-2004, 09:49 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally posted by asw7576
maybe the fuel itself already contains some lubricants, but this type of fuel produce oily waste, like gunk, don't you think ?

hey, thanks for the reply,....... what will the oily gunk do to the motor ? if this is oil, don't they inhibit rust ?
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Old 12-28-2004, 09:59 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally posted by P2gee
One of the by products of burning nitro fuel in or engines is nitric acid. This is the stuff that causes the green death on piston sleeves, bearings, and rod bushiongs. After run oil is not so much about getting some oil in the engine as using the oil as a medium to carry this nitric acid out of the engine.
I' m sorry, I don't get it, you mean to say we have to get the afterrun oil out of the motor after we put them in to get the nitric acid out ? correct me if I sounded confused. thanks for the help.
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Old 12-28-2004, 05:13 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally posted by baldwinn
I' m sorry, I don't get it, you mean to say we have to get the afterrun oil out of the motor after we put them in to get the nitric acid out ? correct me if I sounded confused. thanks for the help.

Re-read my after run procedure on page one of this thread. It is my opinion that just putting some drops in the carb and or plug hole is better than nothing but still not getting the job done.
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Old 12-28-2004, 10:07 PM   #38
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I've used nothing but ATF (automatic transmission fluid) for many years as after run oil, and have had no problems. Its available anywhere and does a very good job. And at what? $2 a quart? very inexpensive too.
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Old 12-29-2004, 04:42 AM   #39
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Originally posted by bbntc3
I've used nothing but ATF (automatic transmission fluid) for many years as after run oil, and have had no problems. Its available anywhere and does a very good job. And at what? $2 a quart? very inexpensive too.

Ouchh...... $2 is very cheap !!! Good to know, but are you sure ? inside the engine have some silicone seal, do you think the atf oil is silicone friendly ?
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Old 12-29-2004, 06:28 AM   #40
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Some oils absorb moisture faster then others. After-run cost about $3 for a bottle and will last you a year. It is cheap insurance when you look at the cost of a good engine $300. Not worth the chance if you ask me.
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Old 12-31-2004, 07:31 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally posted by P2gee
One of the by products of burning nitro fuel in or engines is nitric acid. This is the stuff that causes the green death on piston sleeves, bearings, and rod bushiongs. After run oil is not so much about getting some oil in the engine as using the oil as a medium to carry this nitric acid out of the engine.
Nobody has mentioned that th fuel used is acid, especially the Nitro. It also breaks down in your engnne releasing O2 and therefore rusting everything in sight.

It take about 12 -24 hrs for the damage to be done. You need to do 2 things. Flush all the fuel out of the engiine and then nuetralise the acid with an alkaline oil. After run oil is slightly alkaline.

Flush with pure methonol then 4 drops of after run EVERY RACE!!
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Old 12-31-2004, 08:24 PM   #42
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I don't know what you mean when you said to flush with methonol. Run the engine on methonol? Pour some in the carb. and pull out the glow plug and flush it out that way? This is the first that I have heard of this. Please explain.
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Old 01-01-2005, 04:16 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally posted by THE DOCTOR
I don't know what you mean when you said to flush with methonol. Run the engine on methonol? Pour some in the carb. and pull out the glow plug and flush it out that way? This is the first that I have heard of this. Please explain.
You need to get the spent fuel out of the engine so flush through with pure methonol. Not fuel as the Nitro is acid.

After flushing coat with After run oil
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Old 01-01-2005, 07:49 AM   #44
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This stuff eats all the nittro residue in the motor its called Afterburn JR..You can get it from Horizon hobbies http://www.horizonhobby.com/Shop/ByC...ProdID=RCC7059

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Old 01-01-2005, 09:08 AM   #45
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I use all modifies engines I have 8 total all are very expensive. ATF is or was used by boat racers for many years. They found it to be the only thing that controlled moisture. So I guess no Automatic trannys have anything siliconed based in them?? (silicone seals) ATF is a cleaning fluid, Dennis Richey told me about ATF many years ago. I sorta figured if its good enough for him it should be just fine for me! I guess if you wanted you could mix alittle Marvel Mystery oil with tthe ATF and then you would have After run oil! That's basically all it is. If you get all the old Nitro burnt out of the engine before you use it, it will protect just as well. I have engines that have'nt be ran for over a year. I just ran all the NItro out added after run put the engine in a sealed bag and put it back into the box. You can remove the backplate and theres no rust to be found on any internal parts. So to me ATF works just fine! Companys will say they have this and that additive added to their products, its mainly just a sales pitch, to get you to buy it!
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