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Old 10-06-2002, 04:50 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally posted by redsand
Manticore,
We currently do not ship to International addresses.
Thanks for the information.
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Old 10-09-2002, 11:05 PM   #17
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Anyone ever tried Dynamite Blue thunder After Burn "after run fuel"?
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Old 10-10-2002, 02:00 AM   #18
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I tried it once and it flash rusted so severly I stopped immediately. I did as the instructions state and it was a disaster. I think it's because of the alcohol content in it that cause the rusting. To use it you simply fill your tank with a small amount and start it up. Idle it for 15-20 seconds and you kill it and store it. Not a good idea if you ask me
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Old 10-10-2002, 03:06 AM   #19
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In fact, any metal protection liquid agent will do the job such as engine oil and transmission fuild.

Never use WD40 as it is corrosive to metal.
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Old 10-10-2002, 04:39 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore
In fact, any metal protection liquid agent will do the job such as engine oil and transmission fuild.

Never use WD40 as it is corrosive to metal.
Yep. A friend put me on to ordinary two-stroke oil - like for an outboard motor etc. Castrol TT or something similar
It sounded so obvious when he said it, and it works just fine.
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Old 10-10-2002, 06:16 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally posted by island-guy
I tried it once and it flash rusted so severly I stopped immediately. I did as the instructions state and it was a disaster. I think it's because of the alcohol content in it that cause the rusting. To use it you simply fill your tank with a small amount and start it up. Idle it for 15-20 seconds and you kill it and store it. Not a good idea if you ask me
Fill it up 1/4 of a tank, then start it and idle for 1 min.
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Old 10-10-2002, 11:43 PM   #22
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It's just so easy to use oil - Marvel, some overpriced LHS-bought afterrun oil (that's really Marvel. . .) or 2-stroke oil or just plain old oil (not WD. . .) - why use anything else? Pop the plug, pop in some drops-o-oil, pop the plug back in, turn the motor over a few times and you're set!
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Old 10-17-2002, 05:05 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally posted by island-guy
I tried it once and it flash rusted so severly I stopped immediately. I did as the instructions state and it was a disaster. I think it's because of the alcohol content in it that cause the rusting. To use it you simply fill your tank with a small amount and start it up. Idle it for 15-20 seconds and you kill it and store it. Not a good idea if you ask me

if its got alcohol in it then it would be burning the alcohol and just sending the rest of the mixture out the pipe so u really have no protection, just use anything that is OIL
go buy a bottle of Castor oil and use it,

and never blow it down the pipe with an air compressor u can destroy things, specially ya fuel lines and fuel tank, u put them under too much pressure and they'll burst little holes in them, including the fuel tank.
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Old 10-22-2002, 06:47 AM   #24
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Can i use Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) as after run oil?
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Old 10-22-2002, 09:26 AM   #25
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Probably, it's oil.

It does have additives though and you want straight up oil as much as possible - the less crap you get on your cylinder walls, the better.

Just get some Marvel dude!
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Old 12-27-2004, 02:04 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally posted by Boomer
I agree completely - don't blow crap back into your motor! Crap=baaad!

Pretty much any good clean oil, though, is going to displace the fuel that is bad to leave on the guts of your motor. Shoot, you could prolly use 30 weight. . .
Ha... Ha... Ha....

That guy must be joking ( blowing back the crap into engine )

..... I disambled the head and backplate, and I use air compressor to blow everything out. After that I use tornado after run oil to lube the parts inside. I use only necessary because the oil is thick for my taste.

Occasionally I use bearing oil is this safe ? I have no problem starting the engine though.
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Old 12-27-2004, 04:46 AM   #27
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you don't have to open up your engine every time you use after run oil.

What i do is wait till the fuel tank runs completly dry then I try to start it to make sure there is no fuel in the fuel line or the engine and it usually starts and flames out. Then i put about a teaspoon of after run oil in the carb and crank the motor 3 long times to makes sure it coats everything.

I run every weekend, and i still use after run oil every time I'm leaving the track.
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Old 12-27-2004, 07:34 AM   #28
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I use Blaster 404 Air tool oil & Conditioner. It comes in a spray can and sprays a small jet stream.....easy to aim into glow plug holes and carbs. The stuff is essentially Marvel oil in a spray can. I pull the air filter and glow plug out of my engine, spin the engine on the starter while spraying blaster into the carb until the oil starts purging out the glow plug hole. Then burp the engine a few more time to get the excess oil out of the engine, replace the plug, wait for next race.
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Old 12-27-2004, 10:29 AM   #29
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Hello- I 'm using Sidewinder 20% which says "do not use afterrun oil ". I just don't get it, oil do not evaporate. Why do we need after run oil ? Afterall, there's already oil added in the fuel.
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Old 12-28-2004, 12:29 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally posted by baldwinn
Hello- I 'm using Sidewinder 20% which says "do not use afterrun oil ". I just don't get it, oil do not evaporate. Why do we need after run oil ? Afterall, there's already oil added in the fuel.
maybe the fuel itself already contains some lubricants, but this type of fuel produce oily waste, like gunk, don't you think ?
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