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Old 09-08-2014, 03:07 AM   #31
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DS comments I didn't think were biased but honest accurate well informed advice as he see's it, I have owned all the brands he mentioned. He was impressed with the MTX6 as I read it.
Cheers

PS: everyone is entitled to an opinion don't knock people just cause they have an incredible amount of knowledge and always ready to help out, doesn't matter who they are or what they have.
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Old 09-08-2014, 04:49 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrodude View Post
Remember that DS is the Crapicorn distributor in the Neatherlands...
If you're going to badmouth a product offer facts, not conjecture. It makes YOU and your product look bad...
If you're going to badmouth someone get your facts straight, I sold the Capricorn distribution for the Netherlands back in november 2013.
It makes you look bad, just like your spelling....


And regarding the 748, I think some should reread what I wrote.
If someone would come up to me and asks which car to buy I wouldn't suggest the 748 because I think it's not the best.
Just giving my opinion after having wrenched on one for a full week.
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Old 09-09-2014, 01:51 AM   #33
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DS I think we all appreciate your expertise but your current claim on the 748 is not backed up with examples, hence the criticism. What are the major design flaws? I am currently racing a 733 (also in the Netherlands, I race at the Gouda track) and I will probably be switching brands for next season. The main reason for me is parts availability for Serpent, which has been sub-standard for the past few years. I am leaning towards the Shepherd V10 Pro, the other car I am considering is a Mugen MTX-6. What's your take on the Shepherd? Thanks.
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Old 09-09-2014, 06:25 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DS Motorsport View Post
If you're going to badmouth someone get your facts straight, I sold the Capricorn distribution for the Netherlands back in november 2013.
It makes you look bad, just like your spelling....


And regarding the 748, I think some should reread what I wrote.
If someone would come up to me and asks which car to buy I wouldn't suggest the 748 because I think it's not the best.
Just giving my opinion after having wrenched on one for a full week.
Hmmm... Again, not providing any real facts. You see, how am I supposed to know that you sold it? You still use the logo as you avatar. You keep making my point, and keep making yourself look bad. You would suggest all other brands, but not the Serpent? You're still singling out one brand, and doing so openly.

Oh, and, anyone with half a brain would realize that I misspell that word on purpose LOL, got your attention, didn't it? I'm not in the business of badmouthing any brand, if someone asks me I would suggest the Serpent, but I wouldn't say that the others are bad.

Anyways, keep your biased opinion, I'm done with this conversation.
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Old 09-09-2014, 07:47 AM   #35
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Daan thanks for sharing your views. Please continue to do so.

I have been impressed by your performance and results when I have been able to watch you race over the net.
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Old 09-09-2014, 07:51 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by nitrodude View Post
Oh, and, anyone with half a brain would realize that I misspell that word on purpose LOL

Anyways, keep your biased opinion, I'm done with this conversation.
Bad boy!!!

See you at the Regional Race!!!!!
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Old 09-09-2014, 08:00 AM   #37
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We should organise a race somewhere on the planet, then we can bring our favorite brand and see who is boss of the toy cars.

Any ideas for a nice track that makes everybody happy, we should choose a track that`s good for all brands, so nobody has an advantage...

Would be fun to continue the discussion and race afterwards.
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Old 09-09-2014, 01:31 PM   #38
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making a wrap up for this topic:
chose the car brand which is represented most on your race track.
not only because of spare parts, but also the others who are racing with the same brand can offer you a very good support regarding set-up and of course the know-how.
all brands are good. in my case, I'm still impressed by the performance of my G4II..still capable to catch the current cars
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Old 09-09-2014, 04:49 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QuiXoTic_NL View Post
DS I think we all appreciate your expertise but your current claim on the 748 is not backed up with examples, hence the criticism. What are the major design flaws? I am currently racing a 733 (also in the Netherlands, I race at the Gouda track) and I will probably be switching brands for next season. The main reason for me is parts availability for Serpent, which has been sub-standard for the past few years. I am leaning towards the Shepherd V10 Pro, the other car I am considering is a Mugen MTX-6. What's your take on the Shepherd? Thanks.
Can't really comment on the Shepherd, never worked on one, also no one runs it in NL.
Briefly checked Jilles's car at the EC, design wise it's a nice car. Can't comment on durability or handling.

Check below for what I think are the issues with the 748.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrodude View Post
Hmmm... Again, not providing any real facts. You see, how am I supposed to know that you sold it? You still use the logo as you avatar. You keep making my point, and keep making yourself look bad. You would suggest all other brands, but not the Serpent? You're still singling out one brand, and doing so openly.

Oh, and, anyone with half a brain would realize that I misspell that word on purpose LOL, got your attention, didn't it? I'm not in the business of badmouthing any brand, if someone asks me I would suggest the Serpent, but I wouldn't say that the others are bad.

Anyways, keep your biased opinion, I'm done with this conversation.
From the brands I have experience with (Xray, Capricorn, Mugen and Serpent) I would suggest all but the Serpent because I had a bad experience with it.
I really don't get what's the problem about that, it just happens to be it was the only car which didn't impress me?.

I was aiming at NeAtherlands.....


Regarding the 748:

First let me start with what I like about it:

I think the design of the radiotray and fueltank is really nice. Everything is mounted low and centered. It's easy to work on and it's easy to engage or disengage the flex system.
Bulkheads are nicely designed and very light. Some have dowel pins to precisely locate the bulkheads, this should be standard on all cars if you ask me.

A major issue to me is something which can't be solved by the average racer, minor can be solved by investing money or time.

Major issues (in my opinion)

-Differentials, the diff's supplied in the current kit are poor, design wise and quality wise. The whole idea of securing the big diff gear on the outdrive by a screw is good but it makes the whole design very sensitive to tolerances. I've seen several Serpent owners who had the screw back out and basically locking the diff, causing a DNF.
In the diffs I build everything wasn't fitting well, when you tighten the screw for securing the diff gear the big diff gear could still rotate on the outdrive. This causes the hex shape to wear out prematurely, creating even more play in the diff.
I shortened the outdrive at the hex a bit and redid the countersinking on the diff gear to make sure the screw secured the diff gear properly.
After completing assembly the diff has a wobble, this is also due to the design of the housing.
I know the car was supposed to have new diffs which look much better, but I don't have any experience with them. Plus if you buy the car now it comes with the old diffs, when the new diffs are available they have to be bought.

-Motor screws, the bottom motormount screws stick out of the bottom of the chassis by around 1mm. Stops the car from sitting flat on the setup board, the screws can catch on curbing, and have to be replaced on a regular base to avoid stripping. Really don't understand how you can sell a car with something like that.


Minor issues

-Clutch, it's not as sharp as some other clutches. I put a Capricorn double reverse clutch on the car (fits, only needs the Serpent clutch bell)

-Shocks, standard there is a lot of friction between the O-rings and the shock shafts, the O-rings are compressed too much from the outside. Fixed this by using Tamiya blue O-rings and some 4mm shims to give them enough compression to get a good seal.
Also the top nut is too loose, causing it to unwind when you want to rotate the preload adjusters. So when rotating the preload adjusters the top nut has to be held, quite annoying if you ask me. Can be solved by shortening the top nut a bit, not too much because then the bladder will get damaged.

-Throttle linkage, it wears out causing a lot of play on the bushings which go into the throttle lever, especially on the braking side. Aluminium throttle lever can be bought as an option part.

-The upper servosaver part is very thin, this cracks easily the moment you tighten the servo trackrod. Can be solved by glueing a thin shim to the servosaver part and reduce the torque applied to the screw. An aluminium servosaver will probably be available soon as an option part.

-To me the car showed quite a bit of wear after a week of running, play on the rollcentre inserts, notches in the rear outdrives. More than I'm used to.

-Gearbox axle is made out of a too soft material, the inner bearing races and the one way wears into the shaft. This binds up the shaft and accelerates one way failure. It's not an expensive part so it can be replaced regularly
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Old 09-10-2014, 09:06 AM   #40
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I'm glad I chose the xray NT1 2014
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Old 09-10-2014, 01:13 PM   #41
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Thanks DS, that's exactly the details people were looking for.
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Old 09-10-2014, 03:51 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DS Motorsport View Post
Can't really comment on the Shepherd, never worked on one, also no one runs it in NL.
Briefly checked Jilles's car at the EC, design wise it's a nice car. Can't comment on durability or handling.

Check below for what I think are the issues with the 748.



From the brands I have experience with (Xray, Capricorn, Mugen and Serpent) I would suggest all but the Serpent because I had a bad experience with it.
I really don't get what's the problem about that, it just happens to be it was the only car which didn't impress me?.

I was aiming at NeAtherlands.....


Regarding the 748:

First let me start with what I like about it:

I think the design of the radiotray and fueltank is really nice. Everything is mounted low and centered. It's easy to work on and it's easy to engage or disengage the flex system.
Bulkheads are nicely designed and very light. Some have dowel pins to precisely locate the bulkheads, this should be standard on all cars if you ask me.

A major issue to me is something which can't be solved by the average racer, minor can be solved by investing money or time.

Major issues (in my opinion)

-Differentials, the diff's supplied in the current kit are poor, design wise and quality wise. The whole idea of securing the big diff gear on the outdrive by a screw is good but it makes the whole design very sensitive to tolerances. I've seen several Serpent owners who had the screw back out and basically locking the diff, causing a DNF.
In the diffs I build everything wasn't fitting well, when you tighten the screw for securing the diff gear the big diff gear could still rotate on the outdrive. This causes the hex shape to wear out prematurely, creating even more play in the diff.
I shortened the outdrive at the hex a bit and redid the countersinking on the diff gear to make sure the screw secured the diff gear properly.
After completing assembly the diff has a wobble, this is also due to the design of the housing.
I know the car was supposed to have new diffs which look much better, but I don't have any experience with them. Plus if you buy the car now it comes with the old diffs, when the new diffs are available they have to be bought.

-Motor screws, the bottom motormount screws stick out of the bottom of the chassis by around 1mm. Stops the car from sitting flat on the setup board, the screws can catch on curbing, and have to be replaced on a regular base to avoid stripping. Really don't understand how you can sell a car with something like that.


Minor issues

-Clutch, it's not as sharp as some other clutches. I put a Capricorn double reverse clutch on the car (fits, only needs the Serpent clutch bell)

-Shocks, standard there is a lot of friction between the O-rings and the shock shafts, the O-rings are compressed too much from the outside. Fixed this by using Tamiya blue O-rings and some 4mm shims to give them enough compression to get a good seal.
Also the top nut is too loose, causing it to unwind when you want to rotate the preload adjusters. So when rotating the preload adjusters the top nut has to be held, quite annoying if you ask me. Can be solved by shortening the top nut a bit, not too much because then the bladder will get damaged.

-Throttle linkage, it wears out causing a lot of play on the bushings which go into the throttle lever, especially on the braking side. Aluminium throttle lever can be bought as an option part.

-The upper servosaver part is very thin, this cracks easily the moment you tighten the servo trackrod. Can be solved by glueing a thin shim to the servosaver part and reduce the torque applied to the screw. An aluminium servosaver will probably be available soon as an option part.

-To me the car showed quite a bit of wear after a week of running, play on the rollcentre inserts, notches in the rear outdrives. More than I'm used to.

-Gearbox axle is made out of a too soft material, the inner bearing races and the one way wears into the shaft. This binds up the shaft and accelerates one way failure. It's not an expensive part so it can be replaced regularly
Real quick DS,
The doffs you're talking about, are they pre production 748? Or the 747 diffs?
I've been running the 747 this season and really haven't had problems at all.
I know the super short shocks are a little crappy, and also like the short (the stock shock that comes with the 747) shock better.
Really like my 747, but don't think I'm going to go with the 748 this season, until it's a bit more refined.
Also can you explain the front flex system on the new lab co3?
The car looks good, I've always loved capricorn cars, just support is nearly close to none, but has gotten better in this last season where I am.
I'm looking forward to see the new co3 on the track
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Old 09-10-2014, 04:07 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DS Motorsport View Post
Can't really comment on the Shepherd, never worked on one, also no one runs it in NL.
Briefly checked Jilles's car at the EC, design wise it's a nice car. Can't comment on durability or handling.

Check below for what I think are the issues with the 748.



From the brands I have experience with (Xray, Capricorn, Mugen and Serpent) I would suggest all but the Serpent because I had a bad experience with it.
I really don't get what's the problem about that, it just happens to be it was the only car which didn't impress me?.

I was aiming at NeAtherlands.....


Regarding the 748:

First let me start with what I like about it:

I think the design of the radiotray and fueltank is really nice. Everything is mounted low and centered. It's easy to work on and it's easy to engage or disengage the flex system.
Bulkheads are nicely designed and very light. Some have dowel pins to precisely locate the bulkheads, this should be standard on all cars if you ask me.

A major issue to me is something which can't be solved by the average racer, minor can be solved by investing money or time.

Major issues (in my opinion)

-Differentials, the diff's supplied in the current kit are poor, design wise and quality wise. The whole idea of securing the big diff gear on the outdrive by a screw is good but it makes the whole design very sensitive to tolerances. I've seen several Serpent owners who had the screw back out and basically locking the diff, causing a DNF.
In the diffs I build everything wasn't fitting well, when you tighten the screw for securing the diff gear the big diff gear could still rotate on the outdrive. This causes the hex shape to wear out prematurely, creating even more play in the diff.
I shortened the outdrive at the hex a bit and redid the countersinking on the diff gear to make sure the screw secured the diff gear properly.
After completing assembly the diff has a wobble, this is also due to the design of the housing.
I know the car was supposed to have new diffs which look much better, but I don't have any experience with them. Plus if you buy the car now it comes with the old diffs, when the new diffs are available they have to be bought.

-Motor screws, the bottom motormount screws stick out of the bottom of the chassis by around 1mm. Stops the car from sitting flat on the setup board, the screws can catch on curbing, and have to be replaced on a regular base to avoid stripping. Really don't understand how you can sell a car with something like that.


Minor issues

-Clutch, it's not as sharp as some other clutches. I put a Capricorn double reverse clutch on the car (fits, only needs the Serpent clutch bell)

-Shocks, standard there is a lot of friction between the O-rings and the shock shafts, the O-rings are compressed too much from the outside. Fixed this by using Tamiya blue O-rings and some 4mm shims to give them enough compression to get a good seal.
Also the top nut is too loose, causing it to unwind when you want to rotate the preload adjusters. So when rotating the preload adjusters the top nut has to be held, quite annoying if you ask me. Can be solved by shortening the top nut a bit, not too much because then the bladder will get damaged.

-Throttle linkage, it wears out causing a lot of play on the bushings which go into the throttle lever, especially on the braking side. Aluminium throttle lever can be bought as an option part.

-The upper servosaver part is very thin, this cracks easily the moment you tighten the servo trackrod. Can be solved by glueing a thin shim to the servosaver part and reduce the torque applied to the screw. An aluminium servosaver will probably be available soon as an option part.

-To me the car showed quite a bit of wear after a week of running, play on the rollcentre inserts, notches in the rear outdrives. More than I'm used to.

-Gearbox axle is made out of a too soft material, the inner bearing races and the one way wears into the shaft. This binds up the shaft and accelerates one way failure. It's not an expensive part so it can be replaced regularly
Personally this thread has run its course .When I see a post like you have just done it's just a little to much and it sound like just bashing a brand .
Here is a quote from your original post. Please let us know what they could improve on their car.

The Xray is a high quality car which is easy to work on and is easy to drive. However I think at the highest level the car isn't fast enough anymore. At last weeks Euros they weren't competitive and struggling all week.
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Old 09-10-2014, 04:11 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by JOE SI View Post
Real quick DS,
The doffs you're talking about, are they pre production 748? Or the 747 diffs?
I've been running the 747 this season and really haven't had problems at all.
I know the super short shocks are a little crappy, and also like the short (the stock shock that comes with the 747) shock better.
Really like my 747, but don't think I'm going to go with the 748 this season, until it's a bit more refined.
it was the pre-production version, the same i`m driving. Think overall there are some minor things, just like all cars. The motor screws are allready worn and flush with my plate, so no problem anymore.. still easy to unscrew and use.

The most important part of the 748 is the overall flex and weight distribution of the car, this is excellent, making a very fast and easy car to drive. Try it and you will be impressed, i drive a consistent 0.3 seconds faster a lap compared with my Capricorn. When the new diffs are ready, i would recommend the 748 to everybody. with a little attention the old diffs are fine too, i heard only a very limited share of the diff parts are out of spec.
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Old 09-10-2014, 06:27 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Italboy View Post
making a wrap up for this topic:
chose the car brand which is represented most on your race track.
not only because of spare parts, but also the others who are racing with the same brand can offer you a very good support regarding set-up and of course the know-how.
all brands are good. in my case, I'm still impressed by the performance of my G4II..still capable to catch the current cars
Haaaallo Switzerland!!

It makes me smile that you are still passionate about G4's, my G4+ LE still hangs on the wall and it brings many good memories and when we started we were also ridiculed for it not being a good car.

What everyone needs to accept is ALL RC cars are good, whether engineered better or worse, emotions are felt when other people point out the flaws. I think the key is that while we love our cars we should not discount that some cars are better than others but that doesnt mean it's better for you.

We persisted with the TM G4 cars at considerable expense because we were learning and while others told us to switch we were heavily invested in the car. We learned a LOT from the G4 and while we all start in RC knowing everything, after a while we realised we know nothing. We didnt regret those early days because it was the best learning experience and while everyone told us we could go faster with a different chassis, sure that's good for results but was that good for us in the long term? NO!

We can all go buy the latest chassis and claim it's awesome, most NEW chassis are. It's what happens after a few months that really determines whether the chassis is good.

As Italboy states, he can keep the others honest with an old chassis, so his motives are for enjoyment and he loves his model, regardless of brand. Daan has been a valuable resource for many of us, not just C0x drivers, his pragmatic view and engineering experience should be valued. He took the time in his last post to identify the issues, I think it most unfair that emotional ties with a brand get in the way of saying it how it is and he's not bagging a brand.

We need to put the emotional ties aside and openly discuss the pros and cons. Discussions like these are valuable for manufacturers and drivers, trying to shut it down will not help moving forward and creates divisions in what is a small and fragile community of IC Onroad races world wide.

Whether you own a TM, Xray, Mugen, Shepherd, Cap, KM, Serpent or any other chassis brand, accept that "out of the box" one will be better than the other, from there it's up to the experience and skill of the individual and the support around them to decide whether it's going to be a good experience.

Our hobby can't afford to create more arguments between drivers over the brand of car, our discussions can leverage improvements to better it for all of us.

h
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