2014 New Mugen Mtx 6- 1/10th GP Touring
#406
Tech Master
iTrader: (30)

Actually yes thinking twice about it clutch settings maybe it, new engine, I'll play with that first and if not I was on 37F/40R instead of my usual A/37R goto for low grip. Laptimes didn't really alter, it was more just a feeling.
Edit: I was lucky enough to get to the track today and 0.1 tighter on the clutch nut was it. I also learnt 37/40 is better then A/37 when Sun shine is on the track even though temp is nobly 1-2'c hotter.
Cheers
Edit: I was lucky enough to get to the track today and 0.1 tighter on the clutch nut was it. I also learnt 37/40 is better then A/37 when Sun shine is on the track even though temp is nobly 1-2'c hotter.
Cheers
Last edited by WildManDriving; 09-07-2015 at 02:15 AM. Reason: Update.
#408

Hello to all.
clutch:
total length nut brake flywheel-end crankshaft 9.0.
spring super hard (dark gray) 0.3-0.4 below the end of the nut that locks the flywheel,
distance strain bell 0.5
final distance MAX 0.1.
no shim between thrust and pinion.
thrust nut with inner hole wider towards the sprocket.
the part where you see less pellets thrust towards the mushroom.
make sure the installation of the sprockets is optimal and well strinto.
as 'doing the pinion of the first gear will not wear, always put in life that tightens the spring a little' of thread lock to escape without going to touch the spring.
make sure the washer on the block free flow once engaged in the log, otherwise with the countersink enlarge the 'housing stock.
make sure that between strain and its support, there is no friction when inserted.
mushrooms recommend those dell'arrowmax.
pardon the English google translator
clutch:
total length nut brake flywheel-end crankshaft 9.0.
spring super hard (dark gray) 0.3-0.4 below the end of the nut that locks the flywheel,
distance strain bell 0.5
final distance MAX 0.1.
no shim between thrust and pinion.
thrust nut with inner hole wider towards the sprocket.
the part where you see less pellets thrust towards the mushroom.
make sure the installation of the sprockets is optimal and well strinto.
as 'doing the pinion of the first gear will not wear, always put in life that tightens the spring a little' of thread lock to escape without going to touch the spring.
make sure the washer on the block free flow once engaged in the log, otherwise with the countersink enlarge the 'housing stock.
make sure that between strain and its support, there is no friction when inserted.
mushrooms recommend those dell'arrowmax.
pardon the English google translator

#412
Tech Apprentice

Hi,
Im thinking about starting racing nitro again and i am looking at mtx-6.
I wonder what is the best and the worst about the car. i was racing nt1 2010 before and i liked the car. But would like to test otherwise it is appealing. why did you choose mugen ?
thnx
Im thinking about starting racing nitro again and i am looking at mtx-6.
I wonder what is the best and the worst about the car. i was racing nt1 2010 before and i liked the car. But would like to test otherwise it is appealing. why did you choose mugen ?
thnx
#413

The best thing about the car is having one!
It's an awesome car and I'm sure you will enjoy it!
#414
Tech Rookie

I have tried a couple different brands/cars true the years.
First I had the Mugen MTX3 then the MTX4 and I liked them a lot (maybe not the fastest cars).
Then I tried the Xray NT1-2009 for one year. I liked the quality but for me I didn’t like the handling. With the NT1 I had problems with belts and bearings.
Then I tried the Sheperd V10 for one year (not the PRO) and for me the car was super easy to drive but not fast enough.
Then came the MTX5 very fast car and good balance. The MTX5 was unfortunately not the strongest car on the market. I had problem with bent chassis but I did solve the 2 gear issue with a carbon brace between the T2107L and T2107R.
This year I have had the MTX6 and I love it. For me Mugen have taken care of all small issues that I could ask for. It’s a very fast car and relatively easy to drive. Good steering and a planted rear. I had no problem with bent chassis or anything else. Good quality of every part. (I haven’t tried the bearings)
The only change that you need to do is change the front damper piston to the same as rear with 2x1.1 holes. (or 1x1.3)
// Husman
#415
Tech Apprentice

Hi,
I have tried a couple different brands/cars true the years.
First I had the Mugen MTX3 then the MTX4 and I liked them a lot (maybe not the fastest cars).
Then I tried the Xray NT1-2009 for one year. I liked the quality but for me I didn’t like the handling. With the NT1 I had problems with belts and bearings.
Then I tried the Sheperd V10 for one year (not the PRO) and for me the car was super easy to drive but not fast enough.
Then came the MTX5 very fast car and good balance. The MTX5 was unfortunately not the strongest car on the market. I had problem with bent chassis but I did solve the 2 gear issue with a carbon brace between the T2107L and T2107R.
This year I have had the MTX6 and I love it. For me Mugen have taken care of all small issues that I could ask for. It’s a very fast car and relatively easy to drive. Good steering and a planted rear. I had no problem with bent chassis or anything else. Good quality of every part. (I haven’t tried the bearings)
The only change that you need to do is change the front damper piston to the same as rear with 2x1.1 holes. (or 1x1.3)
// Husman
I have tried a couple different brands/cars true the years.
First I had the Mugen MTX3 then the MTX4 and I liked them a lot (maybe not the fastest cars).
Then I tried the Xray NT1-2009 for one year. I liked the quality but for me I didn’t like the handling. With the NT1 I had problems with belts and bearings.
Then I tried the Sheperd V10 for one year (not the PRO) and for me the car was super easy to drive but not fast enough.
Then came the MTX5 very fast car and good balance. The MTX5 was unfortunately not the strongest car on the market. I had problem with bent chassis but I did solve the 2 gear issue with a carbon brace between the T2107L and T2107R.
This year I have had the MTX6 and I love it. For me Mugen have taken care of all small issues that I could ask for. It’s a very fast car and relatively easy to drive. Good steering and a planted rear. I had no problem with bent chassis or anything else. Good quality of every part. (I haven’t tried the bearings)
The only change that you need to do is change the front damper piston to the same as rear with 2x1.1 holes. (or 1x1.3)
// Husman
Thank you for the info. I will for shore see you in the races next summer

(skarpnäck, eskilstuna, örebro)
// Ashor
#417

I see the prices dropped. is there a new kit coming out in the near future? any info?
#419
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)

If anyone is interested in purchasing an MTX-6.
I will be selling my used racecar and still to be build sparecar.
Decided to pause my racing activities for now.
Currently busy cleaning/rebuilding it.
Both come with custom shocktowers, rear rollcentre bridge, steering stiffner, offset hubs and rear chassis weight.
These parts I had made as prototypes, but I didn't have the possibilities to put them into production.
Will post pictures and make a for sale thread as soon as everything is ready.
I will be selling my used racecar and still to be build sparecar.
Decided to pause my racing activities for now.
Currently busy cleaning/rebuilding it.
Both come with custom shocktowers, rear rollcentre bridge, steering stiffner, offset hubs and rear chassis weight.
These parts I had made as prototypes, but I didn't have the possibilities to put them into production.
Will post pictures and make a for sale thread as soon as everything is ready.