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2014 New Mugen Mtx 6- 1/10th GP Touring

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2014 New Mugen Mtx 6- 1/10th GP Touring

Old 08-29-2015, 08:40 AM
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I also had to add some loctite to the nut. It was backing out and locking up the clutch.
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Old 08-29-2015, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by nitrobeast View Post
I also had to add some loctite to the nut. It was backing out and locking up the clutch.
Yes that's a classic problem,
I've had the same problem, if the face of nut is worn at all it's been rubbing on the bell..
It can't be anymore then flush this the nut or it will touch particulary if the shoe is a bit worn.
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Old 08-29-2015, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by shanwright View Post
Yes that's a classic problem,
I've had the same problem, if the face of nut is worn at all it's been rubbing on the bell..
It can't be anymore then flush this the nut or it will touch particulary if the shoe is a bit worn.
Shan is right... everyone who has the aluminum spring holder has to use lock tite... if u have the steel one than u don't have this problem...the cause is the heat that expands the aluminum but an then it moves... a drop of lock tite problem solved!!
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Old 08-30-2015, 08:47 AM
  #394  
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i changed to the steel one on my 1/8th. the aluminum one always loosen and screwed the run
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Old 08-31-2015, 08:52 AM
  #395  
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Originally Posted by shanwright View Post
When setting up a clutch, I also use a shim to make sure the first thrust bearing race doesn't touch the face of the first gear pinion. But what I do is put the washer in the pinion before I put the four bearing in the pinion. It's just one less thing to juggle when shimming the clearances.
What is your logic behind making the balls face the engine?
P.S. I grease the bearing every half hour of running, usually at the start of a club meeting and just before the final.
I have some syringes I use to put grease in, it works a treat..
thrust bearing will last longer! use it the other way and the balls will try to force out of the collar!
only use 5x7 shims and for the crankshaft a thick shim made out of the broken bearing inner collar will do the work!
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Old 09-01-2015, 07:26 AM
  #396  
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Finally was able to race my mtx6 this past weekend. Overall the car handled well, but needs a little more initial steering. The clutch is definitely different then past cars i raced. Not in a bad way, just the settings that work for most clutches does not work for this clutch.
I started with the nut flush as everyone suggested and after tuning it on the track i ended up around .7mm. The car still did not have the pop out the corners and it sounded like it. I kept trying to tune the spring by tightening and it was too heavy, then loosen and it was too light. After coming home i measured the clutch gap and was at .8mm when i thought it was set to .45mm.
Could having too much gap cause the lack of power out the corner? On the high speed section where i could stay on the throttle the clutch felt good.
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Old 09-01-2015, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by nitrobeast View Post
Finally was able to race my mtx6 this past weekend. Overall the car handled well, but needs a little more initial steering. The clutch is definitely different then past cars i raced. Not in a bad way, just the settings that work for most clutches does not work for this clutch.
I started with the nut flush as everyone suggested and after tuning it on the track i ended up around .7mm. The car still did not have the pop out the corners and it sounded like it. I kept trying to tune the spring by tightening and it was too heavy, then loosen and it was too light. After coming home i measured the clutch gap and was at .8mm when i thought it was set to .45mm.
Could having too much gap cause the lack of power out the corner? On the high speed section where i could stay on the throttle the clutch felt good.
The settings factor in big time...flush is a good starting point...most people I know run about. 4 to. 5mm....8 is a lot...for turn in...how much rear toe u have?? Where r the roll centers an how much toe out in the front of the car??
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Old 09-01-2015, 01:52 PM
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Nitrobeast.... what tires r u using.....shore that is...they play a huge roll also??
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Old 09-01-2015, 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by bigbank66 View Post
Nitrobeast.... what tires r u using.....shore that is...they play a huge roll also??
Originally Posted by bigbank66 View Post
The settings factor in big time...flush is a good starting point...most people I know run about. 4 to. 5mm....8 is a lot...for turn in...how much rear toe u have?? Where r the roll centers an how much toe out in the front of the car??
Rear toe is 2.5 deg in, front toe is .5 deg out. I wanted to change it to 1 deg, but ran out of time. Tires are 35 front 40 rear. Rear roll center is middle insert and front upper arm is in lower position.
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Old 09-01-2015, 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by nitrobeast View Post
Rear toe is 2.5 deg in, front toe is .5 deg out. I wanted to change it to 1 deg, but ran out of time. Tires are 35 front 40 rear. Rear roll center is middle insert and front upper arm is in lower position.
Try 32-37... rear camber link in side hole bottom...3mm shim on the hub...for more turn in...raise the arms to the top...an front camber 2...
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Old 09-02-2015, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by bigbank66 View Post
Try 32-37... rear camber link in side hole bottom...3mm shim on the hub...for more turn in...raise the arms to the top...an front camber 2...
Curious as to why you mentioned that rear link setup. Currently have it inside middle hole and 3mm shims. This weekend ill try raising the front arms and going to 1 deg. toe out in the front.
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Old 09-02-2015, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by nitrobeast View Post
Curious as to why you mentioned that rear link setup. Currently have it inside middle hole and 3mm shims. This weekend ill try raising the front arms and going to 1 deg. toe out in the front.
The longer the rear links...the more the car rotate... there for more turn In..Also check what's in your front diff... lower weight oils more steering...I would start at 300k
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Old 09-05-2015, 01:28 AM
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Hey All,
Today at the track, after warming the engine, I felt the car had more grip while the chassis & diff's were cold has anyone else had this feeling, does anyone have reasons this maybe?

m.Ellis
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Old 09-05-2015, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by WildManDriving View Post
Hey All,
Today at the track, after warming the engine, I felt the car had more grip while the chassis & diff's were cold has anyone else had this feeling, does anyone have reasons this maybe?

m.Ellis
That's a new one for me....maybe u r spinning tires an they r heating up an washing out??? What kind of surface us we're on?? Low or high grip??
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Old 09-05-2015, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by WildManDriving View Post
Hey All,
Today at the track, after warming the engine, I felt the car had more grip while the chassis & diff's were cold has anyone else had this feeling, does anyone have reasons this maybe?

m.Ellis
Do you have lap times to back it up.
Some times what looks or feels fast isn't, it could be when it really warmed up the engine came on tune and had a different power band and wanted to break traction.
I know there have been times when I thought I was quicker but the lap time was worse.
Could be your clutch setup change a bit with heat that would effect hook up too.

Maybe put the temp gun on your diffs before and after see if there is any change, maybe the viscosity decreases with heat. I wouldn't have thought a diff would heat up, but then again with the super thick oils 500+ If your inside tire is spinning I guess you could be loosing a pushing a of power through the diff.
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