Grenade10

iTrader: (40)

Good racing this past weekend at the MHOC (Mile High Outdoor Championship) race in Denver, Colorado. Nice to run a larger race that is about an hour away, Vs the closest track in Lincoln Nebraska at 6 1/2hours. Got to thank the guys that traveled to this event, and next year should be better.

Anyway, the MTX-6 was working very well. Qualified 2nd to Billy Sydor (who finished 2nd at the Byrons race so know he is pretty quick) I was a lap off but at the front of the balance of the field. In the main, after a change in the front weight and Billy going to harder tires, I was able to run with him for the first 2-3 min and then my driving was not up to the task. Had a clean run, fastest lap was 0.50 faster than I had ever run and 1 full lap more in the qualifiers .... so a good weekend. Finished 2nd, so for me a great weekend. Love the Car

LKF

here you can see the car of robert pietsch at german nationals last week.
he drove fastest laptimes and missed the title only by 0,2 seconds after 45 minutes.

WildManDriving

iTrader: (30)

I'll be keeping my eye out for the setup sheet, I'm keen to know what is different with part T2106-B Alum Rear Lower Arm Mount?

m.Ellis

bigbank66

iTrader: (2)

rotation...I have the part on my car...makes the rear camber links longer... an the car rotates in the corners well..

nitrobeast

iTrader: (46)

Did you guys notice the rear camber link setup?

bigbank66

iTrader: (2)

Thats what we r talking about where the lower link connect to the bulk...which makes the camber link longer..

bigbank66

iTrader: (2)

Picts..

WildManDriving

iTrader: (30)

What I noticed was:
Screws missing front front bulkhead to chassis,
Screws missing from rear graphite bulkhead brace T2143,
Long rear camber link mod,
Appears custom gear shaft/brake bulkhead T2142R,
and appears custom Alum rear lower arm mount T2106-B?

m.Ellis

bigbank66

iTrader: (2)

From my knowledge the screws that or missing from the front bulk r for flex purpose..

The screws r in the rear of the carbon an bulk just flat heads..
Camber link mod is true..an I don't see the other two things..

bigbank66

iTrader: (2)

I can tell u what the team have been testing on the cars...
1. New high traction chassis..I think 4 mil....I haven't changed mine yet
2. Softer roll bars...everything is 1.8 an lower
3.softer springs..don't know what brand??
4. Camber mod as u seen
5. Wider hex adapters for the wheel hubs

mick8488

iTrader: (5)

Hi guys,

I've been having a few engine clutch issues with my MTX6 of late. The clutch bell keeps catching on the clutch pad.
I have pulled apart the clutch assembly and nothing looks out of the ordinary. The only thing I have done is wind in the clutch spring a bit more to get minimum clearance from the bell, but after a bit of running, it starts catching again. Does anyone know what could be causing this?
On a related note, which way should the thrust bearing be facing? I know the manual says the larger bore side of the bearing should be facing towards the crankshaft/engine, but which way should the balls themselves be facing and why?

Cheers,
Mick

Seisick

Spring tension should be aprox. .55mm use threadlocker on the nut so it wont back down and make sure you use a bell clearance of .1mm. I also make sure to use at least .3mm shim between the 5x8 bearing and the thrust bearing so the first gear pinion never touches the thrust bearing (if u dont youll notice some wear on the pinions edge) and the thrust bearing balls most of it should be facing the engine ! My setup is .5mm gap .1 mm endplay and .55mm spring tension ! With stock mtx6 black spring and yellow clutch! Never had issues and the bearings are oiled every other race!

mick8488

iTrader: (5)

Cool, thanks Seisick. I'll try that. Is it good practice to oil/grease the thrust bearing after every race meeting?
I find the mugen thrust bearing normally don't last too long before I have to replace it again.

shanwright

iTrader: (25)

When setting up a clutch, I also use a shim to make sure the first thrust bearing race doesn't touch the face of the first gear pinion. But what I do is put the washer in the pinion before I put the four bearing in the pinion. It's just one less thing to juggle when shimming the clearances.
What is your logic behind making the balls face the engine?
P.S. I grease the bearing every half hour of running, usually at the start of a club meeting and just before the final.
I have some syringes I use to put grease in, it works a treat..

shanwright

iTrader: (25)

Hey Mick, just check you have your counter weights in the right way.
I was working some else car just the other day and I noticed he had the counter weights in the wrong way and the clutch was very unpredictable.
The Mugen clutch is not design to run backwards counterweights the second hole in the counter weight is some times used to add weight, ie you screw a grub screw into it.
I use Loktite 222 on the clutch spring nut it's doesn't set rock hard so it means you can still adjust it and it will still stop the nuts from coming off.
It is very important to put the washer with the bigger hole on the engine side.