ChadB.

iTrader: (21)

I will. My next race is on the 4th. It will be my final chance to get things squared away before the Timezone Grand Prix.

nitrobeast

iTrader: (46)

ChadB is the guy who might have too much steering, but yes, the srs made my 747 turn in like a beast!

tonyhalandri

The srs is my favorite and I like my mtx6 with too much steering but it needs too much practice to find the best balance between set up and body ...when you are on 65 D/R you must stiffen the front end oils,springs,bars so you can take steering off and stabilize the rear end.

NITTO550

I find the vrs, to dig in a little too aggressively at corner entry. I find the spark body to be a lot smoother in and out of the corners . In regards to rear traction I would use the lower roll center in the rear to start , camber bridge bottom inside ,2 mm shim on top of rear hub 2.0 rear sway and 3 degrees of toe in. Harder spring and harder sway in front is going to give u more initial steering at corner entry on a low medium traction track with the loss of mid and exit so I wouldn't do that. Rear camber you adjust with what the tires tell u.

nitrobeast

iTrader: (46)

Tried to install low profile savox servos but the wire is in the way of the other servos ears. Are most guys using standard servos or are the savox ones the only ones with this issue?

NITTO550

I never tried savox but I'm using low profile ko propo servos in both positions

shanwright

iTrader: (25)

I've used them and futaba as well.
I have found I need the modify the servo holder a bit, by putting and small scollop in the holder where the wires come out this can help to stop the clashing.
I also shorten my leads but I take the back off the servo and remover the grommet and run a piece of heat shrink tube from about 5mm back from the end of the plug right to inside the servo then I seal it with some silastic.
I use heat shirk tube that stays soft.
This does take a bit of work but it's worth protecting your servo leads..

shanwright

iTrader: (25)

I know it looks a bit dagy but I use shoe goe the hold the wirse in place too.
The wires a double insulated right in to the RX box.
The heat shrink is still soft and if you heat it just a bit it can mould in the a shape and stay there too.
Savox lead are so LONG.
I also shorten my transponder lead and it all fits in side the RX box
With a micro deans plug for the power lead.

shanwright

iTrader: (25)

Other side

Ps I make all the leads the same length and then I have a spare made up that can go in eather position.
I think the leads are 110mm long.
One trick is only put enough heat shrink on to get inside the RX box after that you what them to be flexible ..

One other trick is drill through the centre radio tray mount screw so you can use a longer screw.
Also the plastic is very soft take care doing up the screws that mount to the radio tray, just nip them up

Hope this helps.

nitrobeast

iTrader: (46)

Thanks for the help. I also shorten my servo leads, but i cut the wires and crimp them. For now i installed standard size servos.

nitrobeast

iTrader: (46)

What is the rating on the stock clutch spring? The manual says to adjust it so its flush with the flywheel nut. I know thats something we adjust on the track, but that seems like very little preload to me.

WildManDriving

iTrader: (30)

.2-.4 is the average for spring preload with .4-.5 bell float.

bigbank66

iTrader: (2)

The clutch works better that way....if u can see a whole thread it's too tight...mine u might see just a hair of thread...no pun..an it hits hard out the corners...

ChadB.

iTrader: (21)

I originally had my nut all the way flush from the thread. When I pulled the clutchbell off and noticed the nut was rubbing against the clutchbell. I also noticed it was effecting the gap for the clutch shoe. After turning it in, showing a thread or two, it was better.

NITTO550

Mugen clutch is the easiest clutch you will ever do, and by the way , anyone still using the aluminum spring nut , get rid of it