Originally Posted by bigbank66

U might want to lower the shims on your rear top hub down to 1mm....this will take away some rotation in the rear an make the Car push more..

Originally Posted by Grenade10

Have the new car built and trying to find solutions for gas tank strap / ring / pull for re-fueling. I've done them with a long zip tie going into the rear shock tower, but looking for other options.

Any picture or input would be appreciated.

Originally Posted by JOE SI

Take a look at the new rex legend 12 or 12R. Basically they're the keep on and flash pt.
When I need a new motor, that's what I'll be going with. Picco is probably one of the fastest, from what I've been hearing and is definitely the cheapest motor around. I stick with novas, very reliable, or nova based.

Originally Posted by Photocycler

Im looking for an inexpensive but reliable setup. I don't need the fastest, whats the cost of the Rex motors

Originally Posted by DS Motorsport

I would suggest the Novarossi Sturm engine.

http://www.rc-mushroom.com/product_i...engine-p-28019

We use this engine as a standard engine in the Dutch Nationals.
It has been a very reliable and competitive engine, the best drivers are only 0,2 sec slower as compared to their fully tuned engines.

Originally Posted by Photocycler

Im looking for an inexpensive but reliable setup. I don't need the fastest, whats the cost of the Rex motors

Originally Posted by Photocycler

What pipe and header do you run?

Originally Posted by Photocycler

Looking for an inexpensive club racing setup and wondering if anyone is running this setup

Originally Posted by Photocycler

Looking for an inexpensive club racing setup and wondering if anyone is running this setup

RB Products Speed 12 3-Port Touring Car Engine w/2668 In-Line Pipe (Turbo Plug)

http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/rb-prod...-speed/p297569

Originally Posted by DS Motorsport

For the rear diff I tried 40k, 60k, and 80k.

I run on a medium traction track without any surface treatment or additive.
With 40k the car changed direction a bit faster in the technical part but was too nervous in the fast part. Also acceleration and corner speed was a bit less.
With 80k the car was nice and stable and had good acceleration and corner speed.
If traction is high enough I think 80K is a good setting to start with.
Next day traction was a bit less so I went back to 60k. With 80k the rear was sliding too much causing a lot of tire wear.
In 2015 I want to try 80k again but with more flex at the rear of the car.
The rear end of the MTX-6 is extremely stiff compared to other cars because of all the carbon braces.

For the front I tried 300k, 500k and 1000k.

With 300k I missed on throttle steering in slow and fast corners.
With 1000k the car was really good in the fast sweeper and during braking, but change of direction was too slow and not enough steering on corner entry.
500k gave the best balance and gave the best laptimes.



The only Blitz body I liked is the RS4. It still gives good laptimes and it is worth trying on a big open track since it has the lowest drag of all body's thus boosting top end speed and reducing fuel consumption.
But this year I didn't use it anymore because on all the tracks I was faster with the SRS.
The other good alternative is the SRC Spark. It rotates very nicely and is defiantly worth trying if you are running on a track with a lot of hairpin corners.