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Old 08-26-2005, 03:42 AM   #16
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maybe ur car is started backwards .see if ur starter box battery connection is backwards.that might be the problem.
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Old 08-26-2005, 03:45 AM   #17
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K will try moving the filter...

Oh the car is newly built... no dirt yet...

and i dont know how to strip the engine yet... dun dare to..

the starter is moving the right way... but there was once just after idle it went backwards on its own after i pulled the trigger a tiny bit...
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Old 08-26-2005, 03:48 AM   #18
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hmmmm.strange.i can't see why it is running backwards unless it is started backwards.hmmm.the starter wheel should be turning clockwise(if i'm not mistaken).best bet is to go with stock needle settings.
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Old 08-26-2005, 03:54 AM   #19
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Take the car and starter to your local hobby shop or nitro track and get someone to give you a hand. You'll get it sorted..
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Old 08-26-2005, 03:54 AM   #20
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its definately going the right way...

however im thinking abt what edward said about the ignition timing... if i am not wrong... there SHOULD be a shim between the plug and head... but there isnt now...

OMG OMG OMG... did i damage the engine???
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Old 08-26-2005, 04:01 AM   #21
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as vortex said,go to ur lhs to prevent any more damage(if there is already).i still have no clue about what is going on.btw,is the compression still tight???that is the first thing i'll check
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Old 08-26-2005, 04:11 AM   #22
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If it going backwards then it won't get damaged. The chances are, the damage has already been done!

Yes, their should be a shim, unless it's turbo plug. Try this:

Take the plug out of the engine. Have a good look at it. At the bottom of the plug, where the thread ends, does it bend inwards slightly? Place it on the table resting upright as it would do in an engine with the thread at the bottom. Does it bend in slightly at the bottom or does it cut off imediately? If it cuts off imediately, then it is a simple case of you having lost your washer. In which case, buy some assorted glow plugs ranging from hot-cold and experiement with which is best.

If it does bend in slightly, then you have a slightly more complex situation. The plug is called a turbo plug, the little rim around the edge gets over the problem of needing a washer. Here you have two options: either you have a faulty/wrong plug for your engine/fuel combination, or, you have the wrong type of plug. ie. you should have a normal plug. Now, using the internet only that is as far as I can help you, everything else will be down to shop owners/fellow racers, but that should answer half the question. Again, if you have any problems, post them here and I'll try my best to answer them.

With regards to the ignition timing, this could be down to having the wrong type/temperature of glow plug. If the fuel ignites too early in the chamber, then the engine will not make a full cycle and what will happen is that the piston will go on it's way up the chamber to make the full cycle, then get blown back down, the same direction it came. This will produce a very rapid up-down-up-down, but not up-cylcle-down-clycle-up-cylce-down-clycle. ie. Imagine it like one of those pirate ship rides you get in theme parks which rock back and forth very high up, it is like that. A normal engine would rock all the way round, but this one only goes half way. This could mess up the clutch and get the car to move backwards slightly.

If the ignition timing is too late, then the engine will lose all of its power and it will struggle, possibly sound either choked or drowned, and may cut out if throttle is applied.

Hope that helps.

Thanks,
Chris
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Old 08-26-2005, 04:12 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon
the starter is moving the right way... but there was once just after idle it went backwards on its own after i pulled the trigger a tiny bit...
The car looks nice enough. Is the fuel tube on the brake rod supposed to be there? If I put it on that way on my s710, when squeezing the throttle it would also engage the brakes and cause the engine to stall.

For the running backwards, it sounds like your plug is too hot and your fuel ignites way too early, pushing down the piston when it's still on its way up, and so reversing the engine's direction of rotation. Bad thing. I have a mugen x12 engine, and use novarossi 7 cold plugs. That seems to work fine.
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Old 08-26-2005, 04:13 AM   #24
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BTW, if you have a normal plug which has lost it's washer, you will lose lots of compression like ntc3freak said and it may cause it to cut out if put under strain.

Thanks,
Chris
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Old 08-26-2005, 05:27 AM   #25
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u seriously need technical assistant. we can give u hundreds of ideas for the troubleshooting but we dont really understand the actual problem. there's a lot of good driver in singapore that u can refer to..
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Old 08-26-2005, 07:31 AM   #26
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OMG.... its complicated.... its a turbo plug....

what i have on is the OS P8, which is already a cold plug... u guess i will try the other 2, the med and hot one.... i really hope this is simply the problem...

Btw, if i dont put the tubing on the brake rod, the brake wont be pushed back to netural when i throttle....
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Old 08-26-2005, 07:43 AM   #27
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Before you do start messing around with glow plugs, just follow the advice of everyone and try and find someone locally who knows their stuff. They can help you out. If they can't then use us as a fallback.

Thanks,
Chris
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Old 08-26-2005, 07:44 AM   #28
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The filter on the exhaust side line is fine. That will help with pulsation from the exhaust. Make sure your gear mesh is okay, should turn nice and free. Make sure the engine is running counter clockwise. Turn up the idle a bit, with the carb at stock settings. If the engine is brand new, it might be a little hard to get it running correctly at first. Best advise has already been stated. Take it to a local hobby shop, or race track with other nitro cars, and get some help.

Fuel line on the the throttle is fine also. Car looks good.
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Old 08-26-2005, 07:50 AM   #29
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First off---DON"T WORRY if your engine started backwards! This happens every now and then and does not indicate anything negative (unless of course your leads are reversed on the box). It is simply a matter of releasing downward pressure on the car at just the right time, resulting in the engine kicking back ane starting in wrong direction. No big deal. I have seen this happen several times over the last 15 years or so, and by itself does not indicate anything wrong.
I am not sure how your brake cam opperates, but check with your engine and radio off. Apply throttle manually....do your brakes come on? If wo, remove the fuel line from that side of the linkage.
If you have identified your engine accurately, it takes a turbo plug & requires NO copper gasket.
Putting a fuel filter in the pressure side causes no problem as long as it is not leaking. To be on the safe side, remove it, at least until your issues are resolved. Some run a pressure chamber in the line. This dampens out the pulses like a longer line but keeps pressure up like a short line.
The term 'bog' is generally reserved for an overly lean condition, as it is descriptive of an engines reaction when starved for fuel. Unfortunately, many people use the term whenever the car fails to react instantly to throttle input. This makes it very difficult to get helpful advice over the phone or internet.
After checking out the brakes, start the engine and leave it on the starter box. Begin revving the engine (in bursts) while slowly richening the main needle. You should be able to get to the point where you can hold wide open throttle with the engine making relatively low rpm (producing LOTS of smoke and some raw fuel coming out the exhaust). Start leaning the needle, while holding WOT. As soon as engine begins to clear and make good RPM, release throttle and begin blipping the throttle while leaning the neadle. Stop leaning the neadle when the engine begins to react more closely to your throttle inputs. At this point, it should still be generating a fair amount of smoke, and should still be on the rich side when you put it down on the ground. You are ready for fine tuning the main needle.. Make high speed runs, lean 1/8 of a turn at a time, until it clears out and makes good power. Check temps. Should make good power at around 230 F. Try to keep under 250F.
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Old 08-26-2005, 08:07 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon
OMG.... its complicated.... its a turbo plug....

what i have on is the OS P8, which is already a cold plug... u guess i will try the other 2, the med and hot one.... i really hope this is simply the problem...

Btw, if i dont put the tubing on the brake rod, the brake wont be pushed back to netural when i throttle....
You don't have to push the brake back to neutral. As long as there is not pressure against the lever, it will free itself up with vibration plenty easy. By having the tubing on there you are most likely restricting it from freeing up. In fact, on most cars, if you apply full throttle the linkage will actually push the brake lever past center and begin to apply brakes again. Just depends on how the brake cam is designed. Most just have a flat that rests against the brake pad when at neutral, then when the brake lever is moved in either direction, the flat is turned and pushes the caliper toward the disc. You can actually round one side of the flat toward the rear of the car to allow engagement of the lever in the forward direction only, but most manufacturers will not spend the extra time and effort to do that machining step. Can't blame them since it's really not necessary. Not sure how your brakes are set up but you can possibly run a modified ball point pen spring between the calipers on each caliper post if you are worried about it. The spring ensures that the calipers seperate when the brakes are released. Personally, I wouldn't bother unless you are running ovals at WOT and want to eliminate the slightest drag out of pure obsessiveness.

Engine: Simple question....Is the engine brand new and you are breaking-in? New engines will run very rough and tend to be hard to keep running until they are broke-in. Especially if the piston and sleeve are very tight. Sometimes it helps to pre-heat it with a heat gun. But mostly you just have to be patient for about 5-10 tanks. Forgive me for pointing out the obvious if you are an experienced nitro guy, but even I have forgotten to put fuel in my car And I' m no stranger to nitro.
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