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Old 05-26-2017, 01:27 AM   #106
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http://share.photobucket.com/sharepr...hp?id=ODE0Mjg=

I'm close...just got shocks, servos and clutch to go.

The car seems smaller, finer than the Serpent...very nice metal parts like bulkheads, etc and the drive train and brake are simple and effective designs.

Quality of parts seems good. The tolerances are a bit ordinary with stuff being mostly a bit tight but im told this is very Italian...nothing that i have not be able to address.

My kits both seem to be missing 2 threaded ball ends for the roll bars but my distributor is getting them in to fix the problem.

Coming from Serpent the sway bars seem very large but that's probably to counteract the reduced leverage they have on the arms.

Overall, so far, the car looks and feels fast...a real purebred. ..just need to finish it, put the OS in and run it 😆
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Old 05-26-2017, 01:58 PM   #107
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Originally Posted by jtrmx250 View Post
Photobucket

I'm close...just got shocks, servos and clutch to go.

The car seems smaller, finer than the Serpent...very nice metal parts like bulkheads, etc and the drive train and brake are simple and effective designs.

Quality of parts seems good. The tolerances are a bit ordinary with stuff being mostly a bit tight but im told this is very Italian...nothing that i have not be able to address.

My kits both seem to be missing 2 threaded ball ends for the roll bars but my distributor is getting them in to fix the problem.

Coming from Serpent the sway bars seem very large but that's probably to counteract the reduced leverage they have on the arms.

Overall, so far, the car looks and feels fast...a real purebred. ..just need to finish it, put the OS in and run it 😆
Did you need to ream out the control arms? What tight things needed work?
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Old 05-26-2017, 03:31 PM   #108
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Did you need to ream out the control arms? What tight things needed work?
The parts that i needed to pay extra attention to follow:
* front and rear bottom wishbones
* top Teflon cups for sway bar mounts
* quick release levers
* rear mount for fuel tank
* fuel tank
* pin that runs through the T bracket on rear body mount
* might have been a few others at beginning of the build that i cannot recall

Small issues really.

A mate has also built the 1.3 and he didn't have some of my issues above. Probably just me��
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Old 05-30-2017, 04:41 AM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtrmx250 View Post
The parts that i needed to pay extra attention to follow:
* front and rear bottom wishbones
* top Teflon cups for sway bar mounts
* quick release levers
* rear mount for fuel tank
* fuel tank
* pin that runs through the T bracket on rear body mount
* might have been a few others at beginning of the build that i cannot recall

Small issues really.

A mate has also built the 1.3 and he didn't have some of my issues above. Probably just me��
Haha. Good news.
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Old 06-11-2017, 03:40 AM   #110
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Hi Tommy,


What's the difference between the GTX and the GTX 1.3?

Are the arms interchangeable? What about the clutch?


Thank you in advance.


Ted

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I have ran a lot of the top cars ran for rcamerica,mugen, kyosho, my wrc is just as good out of the box the car really works rotates good carries a lot of corner speed clutch is a little finiky but once dialed it's really good and consistent we will be at almost all big races around the us so track support will not be an option. Again if any questions feel free to ask
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Old 06-11-2017, 08:43 AM   #111
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The difference is, new bumper, rear diffuser, new upper deck to accommodate a new lower profile fuel tank. Front body levers that attach to front lower shock. Arms are the same. Clutch is same however there is an aluminum bell option as well as an optional more flexible lower chassis.

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Originally Posted by Ted Su(TW) View Post
Hi Tommy,


What's the difference between the GTX and the GTX 1.3?

Are the arms interchangeable? What about the clutch?


Thank you in advance.


Ted
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Old 06-11-2017, 04:26 PM   #112
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Does anyone know when the 1.3 parts will be available from Wallace? In need of a new front bumper
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Old 06-12-2017, 01:00 AM   #113
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is the low profile servo for throttle an absolute must?

I've ordered a 1.3 kit, it's on the way to me, but the wait is killing me.


Ted


Quote:
Originally Posted by speedracer1bp View Post
The difference is, new bumper, rear diffuser, new upper deck to accommodate a new lower profile fuel tank. Front body levers that attach to front lower shock. Arms are the same. Clutch is same however there is an aluminum bell option as well as an optional more flexible lower chassis.
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Old 06-12-2017, 01:05 AM   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted Su(TW) View Post
is the low profile servo for throttle an absolute must?

I've ordered a 1.3 kit, it's on the way to me, but the wait is killing me.


Ted
Yes, a normal profile won't fit
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Old 06-19-2017, 03:37 AM   #115
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Received my 1.3 last Friday and started building it over the weekend.

Comparing to Mugen cars, the WRC cars (I have the WRC FOne too) needs way too much fitting for their parts. Nearly all the plastic parts, some metal parts (quick release lever, front universals, oil tank mounts) and carbon parts (brake cam mount plate) need to be filed/sanded to fit properly.


If you like a kit with some interesting designs, this is the car to go for. But if you'll want to race constantly, you'll need to bring a cordless dremel tool to the track.

The car looks beautiful though, which is a big plus to me.



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Old 06-19-2017, 11:41 AM   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted Su(TW) View Post
Received my 1.3 last Friday and started building it over the weekend.

Comparing to Mugen cars, the WRC cars (I have the WRC FOne too) needs way too much fitting for their parts. Nearly all the plastic parts, some metal parts (quick release lever, front universals, oil tank mounts) and carbon parts (brake cam mount plate) need to be filed/sanded to fit properly.


If you like a kit with some interesting designs, this is the car to go for. But if you'll want to race constantly, you'll need to bring a cordless dremel tool to the track.

The car looks beautiful though, which is a big plus to me.



That sucks. I bet instructions aren't that good either. Most Italian manuals are terrible. You should see a Ferrari manual.
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Old 06-24-2017, 06:04 PM   #117
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Does anyone have a good starting cutch setup?? I cannot get the clutch shoe to last more than 2 tanks before it's toast.
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Old 06-25-2017, 01:58 AM   #118
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what gap u using? whats the end play? and most important how tight are u making the spring nut? try this standard stuff .06 gap and .02 end play but make the spring nut with almost no tension don't worry if its bogging for now its just to see if it stops burning up the shoe. if that works then u know its the spring nut so now u can tighten it but tighten it in 1/4th of a turn at a time and keep running it check let us know!!
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Old 06-25-2017, 02:35 AM   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cant drive View Post
Does anyone have a good starting cutch setup?? I cannot get the clutch shoe to last more than 2 tanks before it's toast.
lol...this got me also.

I set up the clutch as i did my other clutches and dusted two shoes until i looked at the setup. It turns out that the WRC spring is considerably longer than your typical spring.

The instructions talk about how many turns at which you need to set the spring. I just tossed the WRC spring out (as the over tightening stuffed it) and used my Mugen extra hard spring. Clutch is fine now.

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Old 06-30-2017, 12:58 AM   #120
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Went out again today, armed with 5 clutch shoes in hopes of finding a working clutch setup. With basically no tension on the spring the clutch shoe still burned…
I've decided that something or somethings may not be perfectly uniform or flat causing inconsistent contact which would contribute to slipping. I'm replacing all the clutch components and going to the aluminum bell. Hopefully this should stop this issue.
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