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Old 12-24-2005, 11:04 AM   #121
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I finally got my car finished. I also went out and bought a Kawahara L/F front belt and a Kyosho SP belt for the rear, fortunate that my LHS stocks these parts. I haven't had the chance to try the car out yet but it looks strong. I received red springs and light blue springs with my kit. Does anyone know which one is softer? Can't find the stock # nor is this information in the manual. As always thanks for your help.

ken dubb
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Old 12-24-2005, 12:11 PM   #122
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Originally Posted by three50zx
I finally got my car finished. I also went out and bought a Kawahara L/F front belt and a Kyosho SP belt for the rear, fortunate that my LHS stocks these parts. I haven't had the chance to try the car out yet but it looks strong. I received red springs and light blue springs with my kit. Does anyone know which one is softer? Can't find the stock # nor is this information in the manual. As always thanks for your help.

ken dubb
Your car sure looks GREAT!

Btw, heres the OFNA spring (for touring) rate I found:
Blue 17.0 lbs.
Red 19.5
Copper 25.0
Purple 30
Yellow 35
White 40

Hope this helps.
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Old 12-24-2005, 06:47 PM   #123
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Thanks ogreasurada. Since this is a Hobao car I don't think the spring rate is the same as the Ofna brand Spring rate chart. I have the Ofna Spring set you are talking about and they don't look the same. I was told to run the Ofna yellow springs up front and the reds in the back. I will try that first and see what happens.
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Old 12-24-2005, 07:28 PM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by three50zx
Thanks ogreasurada. Since this is a Hobao car I don't think the spring rate is the same as the Ofna brand Spring rate chart. I have the Ofna Spring set you are talking about and they don't look the same. I was told to run the Ofna yellow springs up front and the reds in the back. I will try that first and see what happens.
Why don't you measure the thickness of the spring wire to see which is stiffer. If they end up being the same thickness, then put them side by side to see which is longer(i.e. softer).

The thicker the spring wire the stiffer and the least number of coils, the stiffer.
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Old 12-25-2005, 05:35 AM   #125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C Verano
The drivetrain should not be that tight...Check and make sure the brakes are not binding.
the breaks are not binding at all. i adjusted the carb of the engine so as not to bind the breaks. the plates are not binding also since theyre far apart so there are no breaks working when im letting it do a free wheel. right now im trying to make the bearing of the front and rear diffs free since it was adviced to be. but if you have some other solutions to my problem it would be most helpful.

thanks for your reply.
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Old 12-25-2005, 09:29 AM   #126
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Originally Posted by mykel chua
the breaks are not binding at all. i adjusted the carb of the engine so as not to bind the breaks. the plates are not binding also since theyre far apart so there are no breaks working when im letting it do a free wheel. right now im trying to make the bearing of the front and rear diffs free since it was adviced to be. but if you have some other solutions to my problem it would be most helpful.

thanks for your reply.
Mykel,
Make sure your centax clutch nut is not too tight. If it's too tight it won't move, so loosen it up so it will engage. If you can move your car on the ground and the wheel move that's what it's got to be, if not let us know.

kdubb
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Old 12-25-2005, 03:24 PM   #127
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Originally Posted by three50zx
I finally got my car finished. I also went out and bought a Kawahara L/F front belt and a Kyosho SP belt for the rear, fortunate that my LHS stocks these parts. I haven't had the chance to try the car out yet but it looks strong. I received red springs and light blue springs with my kit. Does anyone know which one is softer? Can't find the stock # nor is this information in the manual. As always thanks for your help.

ken dubb
The pinks are stiffer than the blues.
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Old 12-25-2005, 06:02 PM   #128
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Default Hobao Springs

Quote:
Originally Posted by C Verano
The pinks are stiffer than the blues.
Purple - Soft
Yellow - Medium
Blue - Hard
Red - Very Hard
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Old 12-25-2005, 06:10 PM   #129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C Verano
The pinks are stiffer than the blues.
High bite smooth tracks
Front - Blue
Rear - Red
(softer front for more steering)

Bumpy tracks
Front - Purple
Rear - Yellow

Mid set-up
Front - Yellow
Rear - Blue

Rear Diff oil - 10,000 to 30,000 depending on track

I don't know what works on most of you, please post your rear diff oil set-up
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Old 12-26-2005, 06:55 AM   #130
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Originally Posted by three50zx
Mykel,
Make sure your centax clutch nut is not too tight. If it's too tight it won't move, so loosen it up so it will engage. If you can move your car on the ground and the wheel move that's what it's got to be, if not let us know.

kdubb

i have yet to try it tomorrow. Ill be going to the local track. Anyway, the clutch is what is called clutch bell right? npardon my ignorance. im new to nitro.
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Old 12-26-2005, 10:39 AM   #131
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Originally Posted by mykel chua
i have yet to try it tomorrow. Ill be going to the local track. Anyway, the clutch is what is called clutch bell right? npardon my ignorance. im new to nitro.
Yes.
1. Just loosen part number 22060 called the "spring adjust nut" because if it's too tight the clutch bell will not engage and the car won't move.
2. Loosen the spring adjust nut but make sure you don't unscrew it off of 22066 "engine nut".
3. After the necessary adjustment is made you should start the car up and leave it on your starter box
4. Apply throttle and your wheels should move. There is no need to go to the track to see if this is the problem unless your town has a noise ordinance.

Hope this helps if not let us know.

Good luck
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Old 12-27-2005, 05:53 AM   #132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by three50zx
Yes.
1. Just loosen part number 22060 called the "spring adjust nut" because if it's too tight the clutch bell will not engage and the car won't move.
2. Loosen the spring adjust nut but make sure you don't unscrew it off of 22066 "engine nut".
3. After the necessary adjustment is made you should start the car up and leave it on your starter box
4. Apply throttle and your wheels should move. There is no need to go to the track to see if this is the problem unless your town has a noise ordinance.

Hope this helps if not let us know.

Good luck

thanks for the help sir. i got it running already. was at the local track the whole afternoon and asked for some help there too. apparently i also had to shave off a few mm's off the diff case's bearing area. again, thanks for the help and more power to you!
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Old 12-31-2005, 11:00 AM   #133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mykel chua
thanks for the help sir. i got it running already. was at the local track the whole afternoon and asked for some help there too. apparently i also had to shave off a few mm's off the diff case's bearing area. again, thanks for the help and more power to you!

Mykel,
After the fix how did the car run on the track? I hope to run my car tomorrow at the track.
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Old 12-31-2005, 11:01 AM   #134
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Any suggestions on gearing for a small track? Would you recommend I change the spurs or the pinion gears to get quicker? Thanks for your help.

ken dubb
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Old 12-31-2005, 04:16 PM   #135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by three50zx
Any suggestions on gearing for a small track? Would you recommend I change the spurs or the pinion gears to get quicker? Thanks for your help.

ken dubb


the stock gearing should be good for a short track.
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