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Old 02-28-2007, 09:18 PM   #526
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOHN TAN
Yes really thanks a lot to explain so logically...I will keep in mind.

What about the gear ratio or is there any combination on both pinion gear 16t /20t and spur gear 43t/47t?

How to choose them? example when using 20t/26t on pinion then can or must use 52/58t on spur gear?

The choice available are:
20/21/22t for the 1st pinion gear
26/27/28t for the 2nd pinion gear
52/53/54t for the 1st spur gear
58/59/60t for the 2nd spur gear

or must within certain gear ratio?

sorry for asking for so much...
No problem, John,
The pinion combination you've listed above is using fine pitch 0.8 gearing, the same that I use. For (1st) spur gear, you can use any 2nd pinion gear, (2nd) spur gear, use any 1st pinion. But the tooth count must match between 1st and 2nd gears. This insures correct alignment and fit of gearing & pinions when the engine is mounted to the chassis. For Example, (1st gear ) 60/20=80, (2nd gear) 54/26=80. Good for small track. Or another example, (1st gear) 58/22=80, (2nd gear) 52/28=80. Good for large track. Also, keep in mind, you can't use 1.0 gearing with 0.8 gearing. the teeth won't match, either too tight or too loose. The previous are only examples. There are no two tracks alike. Experiment and practice on the track you race on, to find what works for you. Race on!
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Old 02-28-2007, 10:07 PM   #527
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shocker360
No problem, John,
The pinion combination you've listed above is using fine pitch 0.8 gearing, the same that I use. For (1st) spur gear, you can use any 2nd pinion gear, (2nd) spur gear, use any 1st pinion. But the tooth count must match between 1st and 2nd gears. This insures correct alignment and fit of gearing & pinions when the engine is mounted to the chassis. For Example, (1st gear ) 60/20=80, (2nd gear) 54/26=80. Good for small track. Or another example, (1st gear) 58/22=80, (2nd gear) 52/28=80. Good for large track. Also, keep in mind, you can't use 1.0 gearing with 0.8 gearing. the teeth won't match, either too tight or too loose. The previous are only examples. There are no two tracks alike. Experiment and practice on the track you race on, to find what works for you. Race on!
Regards
Thanks my master I will get the .8 module tomorrow...Will try to run with it this weekend...hopefully the weather is dry...as it been rain for 2 days continuously...
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Old 03-01-2007, 04:27 AM   #528
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOHN TAN
Yes really thanks a lot to explain so logically...I will keep in mind.

What about the gear ratio or is there any combination on both pinion gear 16t /20t and spur gear 43t/47t?

How to choose them? example when using 20t/26t on pinion then can or must use 52/58t on spur gear?

The choice available are:
20/21/22t for the 1st pinion gear
26/27/28t for the 2nd pinion gear
52/53/54t for the 1st spur gear
58/59/60t for the 2nd spur gear

or must within certain gear ratio?

sorry for asking for so much...
John Tan, go to thread 0.8 module gear and this will explain about gear teeth split in particular 0.8 module. Shocker is right in theory and I originally asked same question as dumbfounded how some racers at my club having 7 tooth split on pinion gear and 5 tooth split on spur running 0.8 module.

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Old 03-01-2007, 09:44 AM   #529
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I can't wait and bought the 0.8 module but now I had difficulty to remove the pinion gear from the clutch bell... any tool to do this job easily? Thanks.
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Old 03-01-2007, 09:55 AM   #530
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vc05hdt
John Tan, go to thread 0.8 module gear and this will explain about gear teeth split in particular 0.8 module. Shocker is right in theory and I originally asked same question as dumbfounded how some racers at my club having 7 tooth split on pinion gear and 5 tooth split on spur running 0.8 module.

Regards
Thanks vc05hdt...do u think I should get extra clutch bell / speed hub / 2 speed clutch ball in order to to save the trouble to remove the pinion gears due to diff track?

Btw is there any tool to remove pilot shaft and fly wheel...

If I had spoiled the head of my screw that secure the engine mount, is there anyway to remove it ? got a suggestion to drill the screw till it broken...any better way to solve it?
Thanks.
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Old 03-01-2007, 03:22 PM   #531
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOHN TAN
Thanks vc05hdt...do u think I should get extra clutch bell / speed hub / 2 speed clutch ball in order to to save the trouble to remove the pinion gears due to diff track?

Btw is there any tool to remove pilot shaft and fly wheel...

If I had spoiled the head of my screw that secure the engine mount, is there anyway to remove it ? got a suggestion to drill the screw till it broken...any better way to solve it?
Thanks.
I use a long series socket and a special tool from the hobby shop to hold the three prongs on the flywheel whilst untightening the part 22066 (pilot shaft). It might be a good idea to get another clutch bell as there is a 0.8 module pinion spanner you can get but how far do you go?
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Old 03-01-2007, 06:57 PM   #532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOHN TAN
Thanks vc05hdt...do u think I should get extra clutch bell / speed hub / 2 speed clutch ball in order to to save the trouble to remove the pinion gears due to diff track?

Btw is there any tool to remove pilot shaft and fly wheel...

If I had spoiled the head of my screw that secure the engine mount, is there anyway to remove it ? got a suggestion to drill the screw till it broken...any better way to solve it?
Thanks.
John,
If don't have the tools, your best bet is to get an extra clutch bell. In fact, to avoid the headache, I have three clutch bells with three combinations of 0.8 spur gears already on them. And each has it's own bearings.
To remove a striped screw head, I carefully use a Dremel tool with a cutting disk, and cut carefully across the screw head, without marking the chassis, deep enough to then remove the cut screw with a flat head screwdriver. It works for me everytime!
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Old 03-01-2007, 08:48 PM   #533
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vc05hdt
I use a long series socket and a special tool from the hobby shop to hold the three prongs on the flywheel whilst untightening the part 22066 (pilot shaft). It might be a good idea to get another clutch bell as there is a 0.8 module pinion spanner you can get but how far do you go?
Hi vc05hdt...Thanks.

Last edited by JOHN TAN; 03-01-2007 at 10:49 PM.
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Old 03-01-2007, 09:00 PM   #534
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shocker360
John,
If don't have the tools, your best bet is to get an extra clutch bell. In fact, to avoid the headache, I have three clutch bells with three combinations of 0.8 spur gears already on them. And each has it's own bearings.
To remove a striped screw head, I carefully use a Dremel tool with a cutting disk, and cut carefully across the screw head, without marking the chassis, deep enough to then remove the cut screw with a flat head screwdriver. It works for me everytime!
Regards
Thanks shocker...good idea.

Last edited by JOHN TAN; 03-01-2007 at 10:48 PM.
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Old 03-03-2007, 06:07 AM   #535
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shocker360
No problem, John,
The pinion combination you've listed above is using fine pitch 0.8 gearing, the same that I use. For (1st) spur gear, you can use any 2nd pinion gear, (2nd) spur gear, use any 1st pinion. But the tooth count must match between 1st and 2nd gears. This insures correct alignment and fit of gearing & pinions when the engine is mounted to the chassis. For Example, (1st gear ) 60/20=80, (2nd gear) 54/26=80. Good for small track. Or another example, (1st gear) 58/22=80, (2nd gear) 52/28=80. Good for large track. Also, keep in mind, you can't use 1.0 gearing with 0.8 gearing. the teeth won't match, either too tight or too loose. The previous are only examples. There are no two tracks alike. Experiment and practice on the track you race on, to find what works for you. Race on!
Regards
Thanks Shocker, I really impress on the speed improve like 25% more on acceleration after using the 0.8 module gear...but i will test more when the new track r ready tomorrow as today the driver stand is under maintenance so I just tried 1 tank to make sure the clutch adjust screw is properly set as I don't have the digital caliber to measure...
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Old 03-05-2007, 07:31 AM   #536
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Anyone know how to remove the c-ring from the front one way axle without spoiling it as I need to change the front pulley... ?


Thanks.

Last edited by JOHN TAN; 03-05-2007 at 08:05 AM.
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Old 03-05-2007, 09:23 AM   #537
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Default Set up sheet....

hi people!

I'm new on this site and I have a couple of questions on the GPX4.
I'm actually a electro driver, but a couple of months ago I bought myself a GPX4 RTR just to see if I would like nitro touring and yes I REALLY like it! I have decided that I will only race in this class this coming summer, so last week I orderd the Pro conversion kit for my GPX4 (It will be here tommorrow!) and I got the Team orion WASP REV engine to go with that!
My home track is a large fast track with more then enough grip and I was wondering if anyone would have a nice allround set-up that I can start of with?!?

I hope so because I have got my first clubrace on the 25th of March and I want to get in a lot of practice befor that race!
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Old 03-05-2007, 10:10 AM   #538
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was wondering where you got the Pro conversion kit I also have a RTR and would like to convert it.

also here is a setup sent to me by a good driver
Front -
45 wt
top of shock all the way in
HPI Blue spring (HPIC
swaybar flat
1 small caster clip in front
1 deg. toe out
one way
2 deg camber
198 mm width
droop 1mm over ride height

Rear -
40 wt
top of shock all the way out
HPI orange spring (HPIC
camber link in top hole on hub carrier
outer hole on bulkhead
stock swaybar
2 deg toe in
100K diff oil
3 deg camber
droop 3-4mm over ride height (adjust for off power turn in)

Tires -
GRP 40 front 42 rear

Body
Parma M type (Protoform Stratus 3.1 works well also)
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Old 03-05-2007, 06:02 PM   #539
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmain
was wondering where you got the Pro conversion kit I also have a RTR and would like to convert it.

also here is a setup sent to me by a good driver
Front -
45 wt
top of shock all the way in
HPI Blue spring (HPIC
swaybar flat
1 small caster clip in front
1 deg. toe out
one way
2 deg camber
198 mm width
droop 1mm over ride height

Rear -
40 wt
top of shock all the way out
HPI orange spring (HPIC
camber link in top hole on hub carrier
outer hole on bulkhead
stock swaybar
2 deg toe in
100K diff oil
3 deg camber
droop 3-4mm over ride height (adjust for off power turn in)

Tires -
GRP 40 front 42 rear

Body
Parma M type (Protoform Stratus 3.1 works well also)
Thanks cmain for sharing the tip on this car...may I know one basic knowledge...the tire number higher mean harder or softer?
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Old 03-05-2007, 06:09 PM   #540
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOHN TAN
Anyone know how to remove the c-ring from the front one way axle without spoiling it as I need to change the front pulley... ?


Thanks.
John,
Use a pair of small needle nose pliers with the tips small enough to go inside the holes on the clip. Expand them carefully while pulling the bottom of the clip with another small pair of pliers. It's a little tricky, but there really isn't an easy way of doing it. You may want to acquire a couple more spares of those c-clips for future use.
Regards
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