JOHN TAN

wow so good...I had to invest more than US$1k on this car...

JOHN TAN

btw if my front is only one way instead of diff, what shall I use for the rear to run 1/10th track...about 50m x 18m?

JOHN TAN

yes I use gaffer tape immediately when I reach home...Thanks.


at the moment just play with 1/10th nitro as I will be busy after end of Mar till ghost mth with photo & video assignment...btw I need to prepare fund for the new coming DSLR (Canon 1d mk 3) around May / Jun 2007 although I might sell away 1D mk2n...

romuald31

Hello from france,
our tracks are big (300-360m long and 4-5m large).
Everybody is running front dif.
Only when he track have big grip , we can use front one way or front solid axle.
I have some much problem to drive one way, when I brake the rear wants to overtake the front...
So , with the front dif, never a problem..

I 'm a little quicker with the belt car.
But, there's so much more maintenance...

Did you like my presentation ?

Romuald

vc05hdt

If i get the GPX4 Pro then would do exactly the same. Appears with the hop ups and thicker chassis (??) makes efficient drive train. I like the presentation v good.

shocker360

Hello from the U.S., Romauld,

That is the best presentation I have ever seen on the GPX4 Pro! Wow! Unfortunately, I'm not literate in French, but, the pictures in your presentation pretty much told the tale. If you could, would you be able to do that presentation on this thread in English? You could almost write a book on the GPX4. But, I was able to comprehend the numbers, describing the weight of oils used in the diffs, shocks, etc...
Do you use ceramic bearings for your car? If not, I know a source. I was able to get a set completed through Boca Bearings. For some reason, Acer Bearings didn't have them listed for the GPX4 Pro as a set. I then checked out Boca Bearings and they were listed. But they didn't have an update on the sizes or amount needed for a complete set. However, they stated that if anyone would submit a list needed for a set, they would complete one for you with 10% discount and free shipping. I took them up on the offer, and now, I have a completed set. It came to a total of $169.00 U.S. Dollars.
I don't have the stock # handy at this moment, but I will post it tomorrow on this thread.I Hope to see more presentations like yours on this thread. As I progress through this year driving my GPX4 Pro for the first time in competition, hopefully I will be able to submit useful tips and presentations for other GPX4 Pro enthusiast's on this thread.
I also like this car!
Regards

JOHN TAN

Hi Romuald,

So may I know where can I get the front diff?

I do face the same problem when on carpark but not in the track where the grip is great.

So u mean belt drive is better and faster than shaft drive?

yes I like the presentation but I don't understand the language at all.

John Tan from Singapore

JOHN TAN

wow so many thing to learn...now is talking about bearing already...

Hi Shocker, where do u get your front diff? does it come together with pro kit?

cmain

iTrader: (23)

"I switch to GPX4 because of my sponsor.

Here's a link I've already gave.
A presentation of my car.

My GPX4 Pro

bye "

I keep getting a error when I try to open the link(Vous utilisez une IP Invalide pour accéder au site!)

can someone post the setup on here?

eauman

iTrader: (12)

Hi all,

Pasting Romuald31's GPX4Pro presentation into the Babelfish translator might give the non French speakers & better idea of what the text means...

http://babelfish.altavista.com/

Romualds original link:
http://www.automodelisme.com/modules...wtopic&t=21124


EauMan

Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

Thank you for clearing that up...

I have a TM G4S, NTC3 & a FW05T & i have gone back to the NTC3 because it is easier to work on and i like the way the shaft drive carries the speed on into the corner

BB

shocker360

Hi John,
I don't use a front diff on my car, I use a front one way, which came with the kit. You can order the parts for a Front Diff from RC Mart. I will provide you the stock numbers needed for a complete pulley

22001 (Front Diff Pulley)
22003 (Diff Case)
22004 (Diff Bevel Gear Set)
22005 (Diff Joint Cups)

I believe the screws needed come with the Diff Case and don't forget to get Diff Fluid. Use a heavier fluid in the front diff than what's used in the rear.

Regards

JOHN TAN

Thanks Shocker for the effort to but I had just order 22175 (Alu. front one way drive pulley-32T). is it still can use with (22003~5) in order for adding fluid?

Did you not have any problem with front one way pulley...may I know what Diff fluid did u use for the rear diff then?

Btw I had ordered a few Alu drive pulleys as well as brake disc /rear bulkhead yesterday. I do have the front Alu. servo mount/both left and right Alu. brace supports. Do u think I should get the (22165) alu. center radio tray and (22160) alu. anti front roll bar set as well?

Thanks again.

shocker360

Hi John,
A front one way pulley won't work on a differential. I use 10K diff fluid in the rear diff. The one way diff isn't for everyone. It depends on the type of driving style you're most successful with or the size of the track you race on (Large). A one way diff will make your car go faster around turns and it's important that you find the spots in the turns that allow you to control your car a faster speed, or your car's rear will spin out. Also, I tend to fade my brakes, rather than applying pressure, so that spin outs don't occur when I must use them. Keep in mind, when using your brake, it will slow down axles with a solid or a geared diff, but not a one way. Because of corner speed of one way's, you should coast through the turn, rather than brake or accelerate. The exiting speed of the one way is better, because the power of both front wheels is distributed equally. As for the alum. upgrades you mentioned, it won't hurt to do so, if you don't mind spending more money. But, it's not really necessary. Keep in mind, that aluminum is stronger, but doesn't retain it's shape when bent. Even though plastic and graphite aren't as strong, sometimes on impacts, it's good to have materials that bend enough to absorb blows, where something that don't bend, will put greater stress on less strong materials. Thus, causing a chain reaction that can break and damage more parts on impact, than had the stronger area been more flexible. And it's cheaper to replace plastic and graphite, than aluminum. In spite of what's mentioned here, it's still practical to replace some plastic parts with aluminum. Not to worry, the parts that you are upgrading should be a plus for your car.
I hope this all made sense
Regards

JOHN TAN

Yes really thanks a lot to explain so logically...I will keep in mind.

What about the gear ratio or is there any combination on both pinion gear 16t /20t and spur gear 43t/47t?

How to choose them? example when using 20t/26t on pinion then can or must use 52/58t on spur gear?

The choice available are:
20/21/22t for the 1st pinion gear
26/27/28t for the 2nd pinion gear
52/53/54t for the 1st spur gear
58/59/60t for the 2nd spur gear

or must within certain gear ratio?

sorry for asking for so much...