***XRAY RX8 2014***
06-25-2014, 08:45 AM
#47
New RX8
New RX8 -- almost complete! still need to put together the clutch and finish the electronics! what spares and options are good to have guys? prices seem crazy high... it seems to be cheaper just to buy another kit!
06-29-2014, 03:04 PM
#50
does anyone know the final drive for the Xray?? On another note can the NT1 gears fit on the 2014 8th scale??
07-14-2014, 08:34 PM
#52
So I finally got the chance to race the car this weekend. Had some inital struggles but come the main time the car was almost where I would have liked it finishing third. Here are a couple notes I had for new comers with this vehicle.
-Stock gears are too small for large tracks. I ended up alternating to 19/58 1st gear and 25/55 for second gear. The new transmission is soo smooth and is a noticeable improvement in my opinion.
-In order to get the best possible gear mesh you will need to grind down the rear bulkhead a little by the front of the left rear bulkhead where the large bearing is next to the side pulley. There are two bumps on the bulkhead (assuming for strengthening) but they stop the engine from getting optimal gear mesh. Remove these and you will be able to get it. Also on my engine block I dremeled out the holes by an additional 1mm to allow for a little additional movement. Not a have to but a suggestion.
-With the smaller gears it places the engine further back and something I did in order to get better weight transfer was run a longer wheelbase in the rear opposed to the short wheelbase I ran on the old car.
-I was hoping for softer rear springs for the rear of the car (kit says 5.0 is the softest but you can get the old red springs from what I hear to get a softer spring rate) so I ended up having a spare 4.5 pair of springs from the old short shocks and managed to make it work with the new long shocks.
I hope this helps out some people. Let me know if I didn't explain something clear enough and I will just take a couple snapshots and go from there.
-Stock gears are too small for large tracks. I ended up alternating to 19/58 1st gear and 25/55 for second gear. The new transmission is soo smooth and is a noticeable improvement in my opinion.
-In order to get the best possible gear mesh you will need to grind down the rear bulkhead a little by the front of the left rear bulkhead where the large bearing is next to the side pulley. There are two bumps on the bulkhead (assuming for strengthening) but they stop the engine from getting optimal gear mesh. Remove these and you will be able to get it. Also on my engine block I dremeled out the holes by an additional 1mm to allow for a little additional movement. Not a have to but a suggestion.
-With the smaller gears it places the engine further back and something I did in order to get better weight transfer was run a longer wheelbase in the rear opposed to the short wheelbase I ran on the old car.
-I was hoping for softer rear springs for the rear of the car (kit says 5.0 is the softest but you can get the old red springs from what I hear to get a softer spring rate) so I ended up having a spare 4.5 pair of springs from the old short shocks and managed to make it work with the new long shocks.
I hope this helps out some people. Let me know if I didn't explain something clear enough and I will just take a couple snapshots and go from there.
07-15-2014, 08:03 AM
#54
Still runs the reverse clutch setup on the car and works very well. A major change is the weight of the clutch bell. I didn't put it on a scale but it definitely feels a lot lighter than the older clutch bell.
07-15-2014, 08:42 AM
#56
post your set up? i will try to help you if you want!
07-15-2014, 09:25 PM
#58
If you are running the Protoform PFR18 you need to be running the front 23-25 mm forward from the front edge of the bumper. The alternate body I would recommend is the matrix precut lightweight body.
When you post a setup I might give a couple mroe recommendations for you.
07-16-2014, 12:21 AM
#59
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
So a couple things I would advise for the off power push would be to get hard front and rear bulkheads along with hard front arms. This will help the car out quite a bit. Also which body are you running and how far front foward are you running it?
If you are running the Protoform PFR18 you need to be running the front 23-25 mm forward from the front edge of the bumper. The alternate body I would recommend is the matrix precut lightweight body.
When you post a setup I might give a couple mroe recommendations for you.
If you are running the Protoform PFR18 you need to be running the front 23-25 mm forward from the front edge of the bumper. The alternate body I would recommend is the matrix precut lightweight body.
When you post a setup I might give a couple mroe recommendations for you.
07-16-2014, 08:52 AM
#60
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
Okay, let me know if I missed anything, still have a lot of things set to manual/stock specs.
Shocks; 600 wt f/r
Springs 7.5/5.0 f/r
Shock holes 4 (1.1mm) f/r
Ride height 8/8.5mm f/r
Toe -1.5/-2 f/r
Camber -3/-2 f/r
Short wheelbase
Stock width
Caster; stock
Roll center; stock setting/high eccentric bushings f/r
Eccentric bushings; stock (forward and up) f/r
Shock hole mounting; stock. Is hard to get an accurate measurement on the bumper length because of an indent on the body there, but from the center of the bumper (where it has the molded indent) I got about 28 mm, and like I said im running the p909
Shocks; 600 wt f/r
Springs 7.5/5.0 f/r
Shock holes 4 (1.1mm) f/r
Ride height 8/8.5mm f/r
Toe -1.5/-2 f/r
Camber -3/-2 f/r
Short wheelbase
Stock width
Caster; stock
Roll center; stock setting/high eccentric bushings f/r
Eccentric bushings; stock (forward and up) f/r
Shock hole mounting; stock. Is hard to get an accurate measurement on the bumper length because of an indent on the body there, but from the center of the bumper (where it has the molded indent) I got about 28 mm, and like I said im running the p909