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Old 05-03-2014, 05:42 PM   #91
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came across this post, after I had taken out my Ntc3.
It was the car to beat in the parking lot racing..... 6 years ago...

The one draw back to running in UN-prepared parking lot.....ROCKS...AND LOTS of them.

I ended up chewing up my Brand NEW gears (the plastic & Alum) as pebbles found there way in there and stuck in the plastic and kept grinding the alum gears....

If my OS .12 TR(P) carb insulator wasn't cracked I would be out running it out in the parking lot TODAY!!!!

To offer some advice Zack? Run the car and do minor changes and see how it effects the car..... and run laps..... Find a Open lot and roll out some garden hose or rope or what ever you can bring, and make a track..... And start burning fuel.....

ALSO..... KEEP YOU AIRFILTER CLEAN....and THROW the air filter away when it is time to change it.. Use new filters only.....
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Old 05-03-2014, 06:22 PM   #92
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Originally Posted by Zakariah View Post
having an issue steering. and i had this issue from day one, not just after this wreck.

the servo arm is hitting the radio tray when i try to turn left.. is the servo arm adjustable? if i adjust it so it clears for the full range of steering, will it throw off my alignment?

or should i cut a notch in the tray? lol.. i know cutting and r/c dont mix very well.. generally leads to more $$$ being spent XD
Your transmitter doesn't have END POINT adjustment????????
If it is a basic AE AM or even fm transmitter, you will have to move the servo arm a few spindles the other way? The servo arm Doesn't have to be centered, you can adjust the toe to accommodate for that....

I remember my 1st rc buggy (ofna LX .21 buggy) it had a AM transmitter...
I Couldn't wait until I could purchase a New transmitter that had END POINT
adjustment. It made things sooooo much easier setting up the cars/planes/boats.... (yes I have them all, big and small)

I had WON a nice Futaba transmitter a while back ...... I should have picked up recievers and used 1-transmitter for all the cars...but I had accumulated quite a few quality transmitter from many brands....I liked to try them all..
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Old 05-03-2014, 07:32 PM   #93
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the steering should never hit the chassis. you need to have the servo arm on the servo centered when the servo is at rest with 0 trim. If it keeps hitting something is not right. You might want to consult the manual. You can d/l it if you don't have one. Also don't throw away air filters. Thats just silly and costs way to much. All you have to do is clean them and get some a/f oil. You can clean them with some simple green or use some nitro fuel to clean them. Then wash them out with hot water then let it dry. Then just a few drops of oil then work it into the filter and good as new.
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Old 05-03-2014, 08:29 PM   #94
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New titanium brake disk installed


New alloy front and rear body posts

Zakariah:

Remove the steering servo horn and reset the servo. The manual shows the horn is to be positioned on an angle to the right. You might need to adjust the sub-trim on the radio if it is off by a tooth or so. Then adjust the length off the steering link to get the steering rack to centre. I found the linkage to be too long.

Once you have everything centre adjust the End Points on the radio so you have equal steering left and right. Make sure the servo isn't trying to move too far as it kill the servo quickly.
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Old 05-03-2014, 08:40 PM   #95
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The left side weight bias is better controlled with four digital scales , One for each tire.... I was surprised to see how light the weight on the left front tire was when I used the scales to balance/tweak the Car.... No wonder the Car could not turn..... I got some decent weight on the front Tires now, eventhough it's tough to get it close, when you add the ever changing weight of the gas on the left side...... I guess the weight variation of the moving nitro fuel is making things hard, but worth the effort.....
I also tried a tweak board , but it was not as precise as the four digital scales....
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I am not sure....it came with a bunch of extra parts, I swaped in the alloy disc brake holder just because I thought it looked better. You have a good point about heat transfer. I didn't think about heat transfer to the bearings. I will have to keep an eye on that.
I did notice some wear on the alloy part of the cv-dogbone part. Does anybody have an opinion on the composite dog bones they make?
Haven't ran it yet but I noticed a lot weight basis to the left side because of the motor. Are people adding weight to the right side to make the handling neutral?
I plan on racing this in a NASCAR class so it will probably work to my benifit for oval.
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Old 05-03-2014, 09:16 PM   #96
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Default RDLogics Pipe

For anyone is using the RDLogics inline pipe I would recommend using .15 exhaust gaskets on your engine and the header pipe is oversize and will leak with the standard .12 gaskets.
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Old 05-04-2014, 05:13 AM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
The left side weight bias is better controlled with four digital scales , One for each tire.... I was surprised to see how light the weight on the left front tire was when I used the scales to balance/tweak the Car.... No wonder the Car could not turn..... I got some decent weight on the front Tires now, eventhough it's tough to get it close, when you add the ever changing weight of the gas on the left side...... I guess the weight variation of the moving nitro fuel is making things hard, but worth the effort.....
I also tried a tweak board , but it was not as precise as the four digital scales....
thats a good idea like rear racing. But where can you get 4 small scales for a decent price?
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Old 05-05-2014, 06:03 PM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
The left side weight bias is better controlled with four digital scales , One for each tire.... I was surprised to see how light the weight on the left front tire was when I used the scales to balance/tweak the Car.... No wonder the Car could not turn..... I got some decent weight on the front Tires now, eventhough it's tough to get it close, when you add the ever changing weight of the gas on the left side...... I guess the weight variation of the moving nitro fuel is making things hard, but worth the effort.....
I also tried a tweak board , but it was not as precise as the four digital scales....
Maybe you could get a custom front side brace made up with some copper ballast added to the bottom to try and balance out that side of the car. I don't believe this is critical though, would prefer to drive and enjoy it for what it is.
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Old 05-05-2014, 07:54 PM   #99
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I went to walmart to get the $4 compact kitchen scales, but none of them were left, so I bit the bullet and got the $17 ones instead, but it was all worth it. Taylor compact kitchen scales is what I got ........
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thats a good idea like rear racing. But where can you get 4 small scales for a decent price?
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Old 05-05-2014, 10:45 PM   #100
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Default Corner Weight Balancing

http://www.rc-mushroom.com/product_i...system-p-28405

I would recommend using alloy setup wheels so everything is equal and then you may have to lock the shocks somehow. DS-Motorsport uses this method, although i think he replaces all the shocks with camber links at equal lengths.
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Old 05-06-2014, 11:24 AM   #101
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Nice product, but I prefer the versatility of four seperate scales that can be used for alot of other stuff aside from Rc......
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http://www.rc-mushroom.com/product_i...system-p-28405

I would recommend using alloy setup wheels so everything is equal and then you may have to lock the shocks somehow. DS-Motorsport uses this method, although i think he replaces all the shocks with camber links at equal lengths.
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Old 05-06-2014, 02:23 PM   #102
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thats a nice setup. Have you used that or something like that. Did it make any difference for you if you noticed the car was off by a lot ??
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Old 05-06-2014, 07:45 PM   #103
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I have this with the clips for the shocks... never used it though

http://zeppinracing.com/portfolio-vi...r-scale-black/
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Old 05-06-2014, 08:56 PM   #104
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ntc-3 is not that fragile either.....unless you hit stuff really hard. longer screws in the gearboxes helps with breakage..... pivot balls do bend when hit so check them after a good wreck. I have some titanium ones that do not bend so easily. the car is solid and fun to race with but is not up with current stuff. learn to setup the two speed properly for the track you run on and have fun.
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Old 05-08-2014, 03:41 AM   #105
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Race day tomorrow night, fingers crossed weather stays fine. Everything is ready, still trying to find right rim offset to get ny-lock ring even onto the axle thread.
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